Surges/stalls

kbenson · Post by **kbenson** » 26 Jul 2009, 00:00

I just got a 1999 S80 T6 with 155,000 miles on it. It hesitates (runs rough and surges/stalls) when you get on the gas, and it won't go over 60 miles an hour, (seems like it's around 3500 RPM). Any ideas?

I really appreciate any and all help you can give!!!! Thanks!

Post by **erikv11** » 26 Jul 2009, 14:14

It sure sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere. I don't know that vehicle so can't suggest certain hoses, but starting fluid can work really well to find a vacuum leak. GL.

kbenson · Post by **kbenson** » 26 Jul 2009, 15:07

I just looked online, and found out we're eligible for the ETM recall.... I'm hoping that might be what it needs?!?

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 26 Jul 2009, 16:04

kbenson wrote:I just looked online, and found out we're eligible for the ETM recall.... I'm hoping that might be what it needs?!?

It could be. Look on the front of the ETM. If it has a yellow sticker it has already been replaced. Better get on the warranty issue right away as the extension is only good for ten years from the "first use" of the car. Good luck.

kbenson · Post by **kbenson** » 27 Jul 2009, 12:45

Well I just heard back from the dealer - he said there's no recall available

he said that the software was updated in 2006 and that the first use of the car was 1/31/1999 making it over the extended warranty. They ran the diagnostics ($118) and said that we need the following: 1.)New spark plugs, 2.)Ignition coil, 3.)PCV System clean-out & 4.)Replace one upper torn motor mount.... Grand total $1,650 which he said they'd do for $1,493....... I called a local repair shop and they said they'd do the work for $850
What the guy said was that the spark plugs were so dirty that they were fouling causing the ignition coil to go out, and then he said that the PCV system was extremely dirty and if we didn't get it cleaned it creates back pressure which will cause oil leaks....... what are everyones thoughts??????

Post by **dcarlson12** » 27 Jul 2009, 16:15

You can look at the engine mount to see how badly torn up it is. It is right there on top of the engine.

Sparks plugs could very likely need replacement if previous owner didn't keep up the maintenance. Are they saying (1) only coil? Each cylinder has its own coil. Who ever does the work for you, make sure to use Volvo OEM plugs. Have heard of lots of grief if you don't.

As far that the PCV system cleanliness goes, I sure would like for them to tell you how they know it is 'dirty'. My car has about 118,000 miles on it and I would like to know what symptoms would tell me/them that it is dirty and needs some attention. From my research the only way one can tell if it is plugged that that there would be a tendency for the dip stick to get pushed up out of it 'fully down' position i.e. that there would be pressure build up in the crankcase to push it up. If you can get them to share how they know, I would sure like to hear it. I am not saying they are wrong but I don't see how they could even look at it since it is mounted below the intake manifold and one can not touch it without removing the intake manifold, etc.
If you do get the PCV system cleaned, I would like to know if one can just cleans it (i.e. the little nipple 8a and hose) or does one routinely replace the oil trap too?
I have attached three .pdf files to show the PCV cleaning procedure shown in VADIS and the parts of the crank case ventilation system.

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 27 Jul 2009, 17:57

You can do the plugs yourself: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 11&t=17431

While you've got it apart you can replace the bad coil, just have the dealer tell you which one it is and buy it before you take the car apart.

WRT the oil trap, they usually diagnose it by pressure coming out of the dipstick tube and oil leaks down the front of the engine from the oil return tube of the trap. You don't need to buy a new trap, just the seals that connect it to the block - they cost about $5. Clean the trap out with carb cleaner or gasoline. The hard part is getting the intake manifold and alternator bracket off. If you don't want to remove the alternator bracket, you can buy a new trap, break the old trap off at the bolt that's behind the bracket, remove the bolt, then grind the bracket to allow enough room to access the bolt. The intake manifold gasket can be reused if you are careful taking it off, but most people buy a new one.

kbenson · Post by **kbenson** » 28 Jul 2009, 17:30

Well we ended up taking the car to our local repair shop. All the codes were related to mis-fires in cylinder #1, They put in the new spark plugs, ignition coil in cylinder #1, cleaned the PCV System and put in a new trap and fixed the torn motor mount - grand total with tax was $851. We picked up the car which at first ran fantastic, until we got to the freeway...... once up to 2500-3000 RPM it started to surge/stall then would level out, then would do it all over again. Took it back to the shop and the codes were the same - related to misfires in Cylinder #1. They figured it had to do with the fuel system because when they hooked a pressure gauge up to the line it was good, then went down to 10lbs (should be 42-50) After replacing the fuel filter it still had the same problem so they deduced that it's the fuel pump. The reason the misfires are in Cylinder #1 is because it's farthest from the fuel pump. Here's the bad news...it's gonna cost another $650!!!! I just hope this really is the problem.... has anyone experienced this before? Thanks for all your help & advice!

Post by **dcarlson12** » 29 Jul 2009, 10:57

Hope you can keep us informed if and when the problem is solved...

kbenson · Post by **kbenson** » 29 Jul 2009, 18:41

Just got the car back.... it was the fuel pump that caused the problem - she's running like a top now!!!