Drain on Battery 1997 850 GLT

Post by **w5bvb** » 21 Aug 2009, 04:39

Sorry, but your analysis is wrong. Any current flowing through
the battery has to flow through both the positive and negative
terminals. So it does not make any difference whether the test
device goes in the + or the - path. The only case where the + lead requirement makes sense is if there is acid/corrosion/crud
whatever making a leakage path to ground from the negative terminal. Good luck with the hunt for the problem as I have had
the same thing on my 95 850 turbo and the problem seems to
have gone away without my finding a definite cause though I did
disable the glove compartment light. Frankly, I suspect a relay
was sticking somewhere. Thanks, Phil

graydawn · Post by **graydawn** » 21 Aug 2009, 08:42

Check Battery first ...it was fine. Used test light, went on for a second or two, when first connected, but then went out. Strange! Still draining battery, Seems to be faster now. Going to give a couple of things a try. Think it might be ABS problem.

thanks for all the posts. Any more suggestion appricated

hutch

graydawn · Post by **graydawn** » 21 Aug 2009, 13:05

I have check the Battery. Good!.... I pulled each fuse twice ...plus the back outlet one. Test light still on! Pulled all the fuse out at once. Test light still on!

Any one have Any other suggestions! Really stumped on this!!

Thanks Hutch

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 21 Aug 2009, 16:21

It could be a problem with the alternator. Disconnect it there (with the battery cable removed while you are disconnecting it) and see what happens.

...Lee

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 21 Aug 2009, 19:01

w5bvb wrote:Sorry, but your analysis is wrong. Any current flowing through
the battery has to flow through both the positive and negative
terminals. So it does not make any difference whether the test
device goes in the + or the - path. The only case where the + lead requirement makes sense is if there is acid/corrosion/crud
whatever making a leakage path to ground from the negative terminal. Good luck with the hunt for the problem as I have had
the same thing on my 95 850 turbo and the problem seems to
have gone away without my finding a definite cause though I did
disable the glove compartment light. Frankly, I suspect a relay
was sticking somewhere. Thanks, Phil

+1 on both terminals being part of the current flow loop.
Bad grounds will still be part of the equation for either battery terminal.
+ or - , the draw will be the same on either.

As for "Ya gotta use a test light", I disagree. Sure, it works...Kinda.
It's just a much cheaper "analog" ammeter for very rough "readings"
A good ammeter is MUCH more accurate doing exactly the same thing.
If you're already using the right tool for the right job, why backpedal?

But that's just me. You may think I'm wrong!

goober4321 · Post by **goober4321** » 21 Aug 2009, 19:55

Now try pulling the relays one by one in the same manner of the fuses with the test light

Volgrrr · Post by **Volgrrr** » 21 Aug 2009, 23:04

w5bvb wrote:Sorry, but your analysis is wrong. Any current flowing through
the battery has to flow through both the positive and negative
terminals. So it does not make any difference whether the test
device goes in the + or the - path. The only case where the + lead requirement makes sense is if there is acid/corrosion/crud
whatever making a leakage path to ground from the negative terminal.

I'm sorry if I appear a little bit pedantic, but take the time to go back, read and digest my post correctly because, what you state here is, in essence, no different to what I said in my original post.

mcp · Post by **mcp** » 22 Aug 2009, 11:10

Going back to basics. The question was asked, but never answered, "How old is the battery?". Twice I read "battery checked - good", but my personal experience is a battery that has reached its limit, may "test good", but be "bad".

This summer, the Interstate battery in my wife's 1998 S70 exhibited exactly what you are describing. It would go dead overnight, even though I took it to my local Autozone to have them test and charge it. It tested "good", took a charge and then went dead overnight. It was a 60 month battery that had gone several months past 60. A new battery was the solution.

So, how old is the battery?

graydawn · Post by **graydawn** » 05 Oct 2009, 07:50

Found Problem Was the Air pump intake relay.

Post by **Pauloil** » 20 Nov 2009, 21:34

I used the info here and used neg cable to get 0.14 amp drain until pulling fuse to glovebox light, then 0.04 amp. So my glovebox light was keeping my battery around 12.2V or less. Now 12.37V after long drive today. The pad to shut off the light had hole in center! I used a small square of furniture glide( the glides you put under furniture on nice wood floors) and will super-glue it in place soon to keep the light off. I hope anyone reading this will go out and look at the pad that turns off the light in the glovebox if you have an 850.

Drain on Battery 1997 850 GLT

Re: Drain on Battery 1997 850 GLT