Volvo S70 AWD Diagnostic

pmarinello · Post by **pmarinello** » 21 Aug 2009, 08:37

Hey everyone, I'm new to the site but have been browsing awhile, recently my girlfriend picked up an S70 AWD B5254T this is the first Volvo I will be working on, but am more familiar with hondas. lol So here's my story:

Car has 125,000 miles, I have done a "tune up" which just consisted of a tranny drain and refill, plugs, air filter, fuel filter, Oil change, coolant drain. The timing belt looks new but I have nothing to show it was done.

Now the problems, I have a check engine light on all the time, and service light that disappears in a few minutes. The car sometimes has some trouble starting, you need to crank it a few times, and sometimes it doesn't start at all, you need to wait hours sometimes. Last problem is randomly and intermittently, when slowing down, braking, midway through turns, the car will stall out, leaving her with no power steering or brakes. IT WILL USUALLY start back up first or second try.

I have all diagnostic codes from Volvo dealer:
[*]ECM-261A - Long-term fuel trim, bank 1 - upper limit
[*]ECM-280A - Front heated oxygen sensor (HO2S), bank 1 - faulty signal
[*]ECM-430D - Leak diagnostic, minor leak
[*]ECM-3100 - Engine speed (RPM) sensor - signal missing

I'm wondering where I should start. Thanks guys.

db130 · Post by **db130** » 21 Aug 2009, 09:56

hey welcome to mvs.

download this:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/downlo ... vo_850.zip

pull up the p_codes_conversion_table_standardized_dtcs.pdf

you can now find corresponding generic OBDII codes to the ones you have listed. the first three i have seen before frequently but the 4th one i haven't come across all that much.

good luck!

db130 · Post by **db130** » 21 Aug 2009, 10:04

geez i meant to edit my last post and instead i am replying to my own post...

i googled P0335 and i got this:

http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?c ... _DTC_P0335

quite possible that a new crankshaft position sensor would take care of your starting/stalling problem.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » 22 Aug 2009, 23:53

Since this car is totally new to you and you're working on it yourself, I would start by getting under the car and taking a good look. Particularly paying attention to the evaporation emissions lines and the wiring/connectors to the oxygen sensors since you seem to have codes relating to those parts. The hard plastic evap. line running front to rear in my car was worn through in several places under the engine where the line ran along the sub frame and up to the canister purge valve on the radiator shroud. I spliced in vacuum line and covered those places and anywhere else it might have been chafing in wire loom and wire tied everything in place. It may also help to check the fuel pressure, it should be around 55 psi when the ignition is switched on and maintain a pressure between 55-35 psi over a couple of hours, if I'm not mistaken.

pmarinello · Post by **pmarinello** » 25 Aug 2009, 15:15

I just replaced the RPM sensor, and the check engine light is off for now, being that I disconnected the battery. I took it for a test drive, it feels smooth but like its missing power, being that the stalling and starting are intermediate I'll fill you in on that after more driving.

Post by **misha** » 26 Aug 2009, 16:28

dusty wrote:....It may also help to check the fuel pressure, it should be around 55 psi when the ignition is switched on and maintain a pressure between 55-35 psi over a couple of hours, if I'm not mistaken.

Fuel pressure at first prime,before starting engine should be 43.5psi-max.At idle is a little lower..about 35-40psi and when you drive with a full throttle(pedal to the floor)43.5psi.

pmarinello · Post by **pmarinello** » 01 Sep 2009, 10:18

Okay I recently went over all the vacuum lines no leaks. The check engine light is once again on, and the car has a hard time starting as usual. It has stalled once since the crankshaft sensor installation.

My code is as follows: P1171

Running lean. Next question:

What should I do next or better yet what do you guys recommend?

Mass air meter?
Front o2?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 01 Sep 2009, 12:40

Start with the cheap stuff first. The connector to the MAF has been problematic for many and it will cause your condition. Clean the connector real well with contact cleaner. Also check the evap lines from the purge valve if you didn't check them along with the rest of your vacuum lines.

...Lee

pmarinello · Post by **pmarinello** » 18 Sep 2009, 16:04

I have just replaced all vacuum lines, and organized the whole intake system on the car, tightened everything down, etc. I also replaced the front 02 sensor, and MAF sensor, the car is still hard starting, no check engine light yet.

WTF??

pmarinello · Post by **pmarinello** » 18 Sep 2009, 21:14

I drove the car about 30 miles, no check engine light, however the car does still have a hard time starting. Could it possibly be an electrical problem? maybe the battery to starter, and a better ground? It sound like it is cranking normal. Last when it does start up, there is Zero Hesitation it starts right up as it should.

What do you guys think should be my next step?