Best spring seats for 93 850, S70?

Post by **JimBee** » 09 Sep 2009, 20:13

A few months ago, someone posted suggestion that one of the later model S series I think used a more rugged spring seat. I'm getting ready to replace mine in the 93 850 and would appreciate latest info on which to get.
Also, the Haynes manual seems to say you can change out the spring, strut, etc without removing the front hub. True? I thought I saw in an online db that the hub had to come off. Set me straight!
As always, thanks for the info!
JimBee

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 10 Sep 2009, 00:11

Use the XC90 spring seats and only use OEM. They fit fine in an 850 but they have much more meat around the bushing where they always break.

...Lee

Post by **JimBee** » 10 Sep 2009, 11:28

Thanks Lee. XC90's. Got it! Is that what FCP Groton sells, or do I need to get them from Volvo? What are minimal parts I should order? Nuts & bolts? Upper bumper stop?
JimBee

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 10 Sep 2009, 13:55

The upper bump stop is always a good idea. When I replaced the struts on the Platinum I had everything apart in the driveway and didn't realize that the bump stops had completely deteriorated until I got everything apart. I wound up putting on some cheesy aftermarket stops and bellows from NAPA that didn't really fit right. The bump stops are reasonably cheap. You should be able to get the XC90 seats from FCP - just make sure they are OEM and not Scan Tech (aka aftermarket). Myvolvopartsonline.com and Myswedishparts.com should have them as well. I guess it all comes down to who has the best price when freight is figured in.

The rest of the stuff is OK to re-use unless you suspect a bad strut mount. The OEM strut mounts are painfully expensive but the aftermarket mounts are even more painful after you need to replace them in 3 months.

...Lee

Post by **JimBee** » 10 Sep 2009, 19:22

Lee,
Do I need to remove the hub to get the spring & strut out? Will I need any special tools? Tech manuals tend to make a big deal of using new nuts & bolts—not necessary?
Your help is much appreciated!
JimBee

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 10 Sep 2009, 20:26

You do not remove the hub. You do need to remove the control arm and you can do that one of two ways.

Many claim that you can just tap the bottom of the steering knuckle at the ball joint and the ball joint will just fall out - I have never had such luck and I wind up beating the crap out of the ball joints with a pickle fork to get them to release. It destroys the boot that seals the joints.

I take mine off at the frame mounts. In that case - by the book - you need to replace the bolts and nuts to do it book right since they are angle torqued. I have re-used them once with no ill effects - the bolts are cheap so it is your call.

You will need a pair of spring compressors to replace the spring seat. The cross shaped nut is a real prick to get off as well but I did OK with a pipe wrench and a cheater pipe. The hard part is holding everything in place while you crack it loose.

Be careful - if the spring pops loose it can hurt you. Not quite as bad as a flying spring hurt Philippe Masa at 180 mph but it can hurt you bad.

If you run into trouble post back and I'm sure someone will help you out.

...Lee

FCPEURO · Post by **FCPEURO** » 11 Sep 2009, 08:40

I just completely redid the front suspension on my 850 and I used the XC90 OEM springs seats that we carry and they work great. This is a must for the 850 specialy if you are running anything stiffer then stock.

Brutus Maximus · Post by **Brutus Maximus** » 11 Sep 2009, 09:04

Anyone able to rate the XC90 spring seats versus IPD's HD spring seats on an 850? I was planning on using the IPDs, but if the XC90 seats offer the same benefits for less cost, I'd consider the swap....

ChiNorm · Post by **ChiNorm** » 11 Sep 2009, 14:48

While I have the XC90 mounts on my car, I would buy the IPD version, which were not available when I last had to do this chore.

I have found the IPD parts to be just excellent, worth the money in every case.

On the other hand, the XC90 versions are still working after two years, which beats OEM on Chicago's bumpy streets by about 18 months. The OEM product really was a piece o krap.