2004 S80 2.5T auto transmission service

contaxg2fan · Post by **contaxg2fan** » 18 Sep 2009, 09:50

I'm new here.
Got a 2004 S80 2.5T with 46K miles on it. Thinking of changing all fluids. A few questions:
From other post, looks like I can use the Mobil 3309 ATF, just want to confirm. Do I need to change the trans filter too? If so , should I flush it first and then drop the pan to change the filter, or should I change the filter 1st and then flush it?

2nd one, for coolant and power sterring fluid, the maunal says need volvo fluid, is there a 3rd party one that I can use?

Thanks for reading.

Post by **JDS60R** » 19 Sep 2009, 10:41

Hello and welcome,

So glad to see preventative maintanance. Head to your local Volvo dealer and pick up a transmission drain plug crush washer, a seal for the return line on the transmission and a gallon of Volvo antifreeze. On the way home pick up some mineral free or top qualty distilled (DD - Double distilled is better) water (1 gallon will do)

If your car equires JWS 3309 traansmission fluid (most in 2004 did) then the Mobil JWS 3309 is fine. I prefer the Amsoil ATF that meets the JWS 3309 spec ,due to its longevity and shift quality.

You do not have a replacable filter but if a car did then you should always change it first. I attached the Volvo guide for your transmission (5 speed auto assumed) .

Radiator fluid is a hot topic so I have recently done some studies/test of my own. It turns out that the Volvo coolant is the same as BMW coolant with a bittering agent.

On an extremely hot surface the HOAT technology is better(does not boil as quickly) than the OAT we are seeing in the global antifreezes. I now only put Volvo antifreeze and Peak mineral free water -(purchased from pep boys) or top quality distilled water in all Volvo turbo engines. The G-05 coolants are similar but most lack the silicates that add an extra margin of protection. The G-48 is closer but hard to get in the U.S. The small space between the cylinders down the centerline of the engine is a top boil over concern in a 5cyl white motor.

Trust me - replace your coolant with Volvo coolant and mineral free water at a 50/50 mixture and replace your green pressure cap. This is the time to replace any leaking hoses as well.

You may spend an extra $10 bucks to get this done over third party but getting a third party HOAT with similar characteristics is almost impossible. If it helps I saw BMW coolant at Car Quest last week for $10 a gallon. The Volvo coolant cost me $20 at the local Volvo dealership. At 3-5 year change intervals I don't think going with a questionable (chemistry not the manufacturer) coolant is a good monetary decision.

P.S. I undertook the coolant studies not just because of the mad scientist gene in me. We lost a turbo motor with 15K due to overheatng and found a pressure cap was to blame. The car had OAT coolant in it and we decided to do boil over test from there. While using OAT (Prestone long life premix) we heard far more pinging as the motor gave away its heat once shut off. The Volvo coolant does not boil and we do not hear pinging (from motor-exhaust always gives one or two while cooling) . Then on boil test the OAT is always first to boil. We did it under pressure 150kpa and at atmospheric. Both times the prestone boiled first. With the boil concern, lost motor and lack of silicates we moved back to a HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid tech) coolant ASAP.

We originally moved to the premix to improve heat transfer but it turns out with mineral free water the Volvo coolant transfers heat better. My factory fill did not have mineral free water and when boiled out left significantly more deposits than Volvo coolant and mineral free water.

contaxg2fan · Post by **contaxg2fan** » 21 Sep 2009, 09:10

Thank you so much John!

neworleans · Post by **neworleans** » 24 Sep 2009, 20:31

hello,
do you have any pdf's for replacing the coolant fluid?
thank you.

Post by **JDS60R** » 24 Sep 2009, 22:37

Hi,
Sorry -no pdf.

Just find the drain at the botom of the radiator, remove radiator cap when engine has not been run for 6 or more hours, insert allen/hex key and loosen the drain.

Once completed then tighten up the drain (careful its plastic) pressure test the system,and refill slowly with Volvo coolant and mineral free or distilled water.

Pressure test the cap and if working properly then reistall. It is good to replace the cap after 5+ years of service but certainly not required.

Volvo coolant is a HOAT coolant - please do not replace it with an OAT coolant regardless of its claims to work.

neworleans · Post by **neworleans** » 25 Sep 2009, 23:21

hello jd,

thank you very much for your response.
i have a couple questions regarding this since i haven't done it before, i'd like to make sure that I am clear.

do you mean the coolant tank cap by the radiator cap?
how do you do the pressure test when it is drained? can you explain pls?
how do you pressure test the cap?

thanks again.

Sorry -no pdf.

Just find the drain at the botom of the radiator, remove radiator cap when engine has not been run for 6 or more hours, insert allen/hex key and loosen the drain.

Once completed then tighten up the drain (careful its plastic) pressure test the system,and refill slowly with Volvo coolant and mineral free or distilled water.

Pressure test the cap and if working properly then reistall. It is good to replace the cap after 5+ years of service but certainly not required.

Volvo coolant is a HOAT coolant - please do not replace it with an OAT coolant regardless of its claims to work.[/quote]

Post by **mvsuzr** » 26 Sep 2009, 08:45

Thanks for the info!

Getting ready to take mine to the local service shop, was going to just do an oil change, but I just got the low coolant alarm and topped it with one of those "one color does it all" coolants.

I'll be sure to specify the HOAT coolant when I get it flushed and drained.

contaxg2fan · Post by **contaxg2fan** » 27 Sep 2009, 19:00

JDS60R wrote:Hi,
Sorry -no pdf.

Just find the drain at the botom of the radiator, remove radiator cap when engine has not been run for 6 or more hours, insert allen/hex key and loosen the drain.

Once completed then tighten up the drain (careful its plastic) pressure test the system,and refill slowly with Volvo coolant and mineral free or distilled water.

Pressure test the cap and if working properly then reistall. It is good to replace the cap after 5+ years of service but certainly not required.

Volvo coolant is a HOAT coolant - please do not replace it with an OAT coolant regardless of its claims to work.

Thanks John,
Today I tried to do the coolant. Under the hood, I could not see any radiator cap on the radiator, it's totaly covered by a panal, I looked under that panal and didn't see anything looks like a cap. This is a 2004 volvo S80 with 2.5T engine (not AWD). Does this one has no cap? Can I fill in new coolant from the tank? Like to get this clear before draining it.

Thanks