2000 S80 lower control arm bushing

asummers · Post by **asummers** » 05 Oct 2009, 12:38

Has anyone ever had experience replacing the lower control arm bushing? The directions in Vadis are very intense, things like lifting the engine, etc.
I am hoping it isn't that bad of a job. If you removed the strut wouldn't the tension be off of the lower a-arm, and allow removal. I want to replace the whole a-arm with one from IPD. I attached a jpeg of the exploded front suspension for reference.

Post by **OEMVolvoParts** » 06 Oct 2009, 09:21

There is no tension on the lower arm, you can take it off without all the work described in VADIS/VIDA. Just pull the strut assembly out of the way, lower the arm, and remove.

PS - There are two different IPD control arms, one aftermarket and one is factory. We offer the factory arms for less money and free shipping, I wouldn't put anything but factory parts on your car, especially for steering and suspension items.

asummers · Post by **asummers** » 06 Oct 2009, 14:24

Thank you very much. I have not dealt with any suspension problems on my Volvo's until now. I have worked on suspension on older vehicles, and I was ready to get my parts and dive into it without all the steps that Vadis calls for. I am glad I asked for another opinion. Now I can get to the job of replacing my lower a-arm and strut seats!

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 07 Oct 2009, 20:11

The problem is in getting to the bolts that hold the control arm on. That's why VADIS tells you to lift up the engine. There was a post on here a while ago where someone tried to remove the bolts without lifting the engine - he was not successful.

Also, you might want to order a complete new control arm unless you have a hydraulic press to push the bushings out and into the control arm.

didmkrmra · Post by **didmkrmra** » 12 Mar 2010, 07:44

I just finished replacing the control arm bushings on my 2001 s80. I was a little intimidated to start the task, but the posts on MVS helped greatly.
I was able to press the bushings out and in using a small frame and a 6 ton hydraulic jack. I wish I had taken pictures to post. The front bushings are the only real challenge. I had to create 3 custom tools using 1 piece of 2" pipe, 1 piece of 1-1/2" pipe (threaded), and 1 flat washer. The 2" pipe is to give a platform to support the control arm when pressing the front bushing out and in. I had to remove a 'corner' of the pipe to fit tight to the control arm. To remove the front bushing, rest the control arm on the 2" pipe and set the 1-1/2" pipe (threaded end) on the outer part of the front bushing. It only goes into the bushing housing about 3/4", but that was enough to break it loose. On the rear bushing, I used a flat washer whith an OD of 2", just the right size to press the 2-1/16" rear bushing. Only catch was... I had to make the inner hole bigger so that it would slide down to the bushing sleeve. (about an hour with a dremmel tool for me) Then I put a 1-1/4" impact socket on the washer to press the rear bushing out.

: pics of the 'tools' I made

I first took the control arm and bushings to 2 shops to have the work done, but after talking with 2 different people and watching them try to figure it out, I frankly had more confidence in myself. I was almost surprised that it worked, but I am happy that I didn't pay $50 for a shop do do it for me.
Only trick is to start the front bushing in the right orientation so the mounting holes are perpendicular to the rear bushing thru-hole.

What I need to know is, what is the torque spec for the control arm to frame bolts?

By the way: To remove the control arms, I removed the transmission pan and jacked the engine without removing and motor mounts.
It gave just enough clearance to access the front bushing bolts on the drivers side. Passenger side was much easier.

I can't go with out saying thank you to all that have posted such great information.
I have done a timing belt replacement, put the o-rings on the subframe, replaced the control arm bushings, replaced end-links, resolved a random misfire on cylinder 2, and replaced the transmission filter... All with the help of the information posted on MVS. I feel like a kid again working on my car. Thank you.

didmkrmra · Post by **didmkrmra** » 12 Mar 2010, 16:07

I found the control arm torque specs:
Front = 48 ft lbs + 90 degrees
Rear = 77 ft lbs _ 90 degrees

NICK59349 · Post by **NICK59349** » 17 Aug 2010, 19:33

I am curious as to why the bolts need to come out? I am changing the control arms on my V70 this weekend and it seems to me I can remove both the control arms without fully removing the bolts. I agree that to get the bolts out of the frame the engine will need to be jacked up but I guess my question is why to they need to come all the way out, are they one time use only?

Thanks, Nick

Goodasoo · Post by **Goodasoo** » 20 Nov 2014, 12:59

Volvo recommand to change bolts, the clearence is not a problem on the V70.