v70 manual - reverse R is gone after accidentally engaging instead of 4th?

[ADent]

No pilot bearing. The release bearing is part of clutch slave.

I plan on going single mass on mine - I have parts pulled from my 98 S70 with single mass and internal slave.

BTW it took us until we did the second one to find the hook on the top of the transmission - hooks into the engine hoist/crane and makes removal/instl much easier if you are leaving the engine in.

[bg212]

Ok, so it took me almost 4 weekends (~7 days, roughly 6hrs per day). I was not in rush; lot's of trying to remember what goes where (even though I thought I took enough videos taking things apart).

The car is 240k miles, I got it at about 140k.
Replaced are:
- rear main seal (leaked a bit) - easy job using right-sized electrical round box from HomeDepot;
- both shaft seals;
- some vacuum lines on the engine while tranny was out;
- refreshed electrical conduit wrapping;
- LuK DMF097 flywheel, new bolts;
- VALEO 52405401 clutch / pressure plate / slave cylinder with release bearing, new bolts;
- new subframe bolts;
- new self-locking nuts for suspension;
- dust caps for box axles;
- new axle bolts;
- Red Line MTL tranny fluid and DOT 4+ for clutch bleed.

One thing I did bad was not using the 1/2'' extension to pull out driveshaft seals, but a big ass screwdriver - I made two super deep scratches (like 2mm deep) on one side. I put some anaerobic sealant over and inserted the seals; hopefully won't be a problem with basically a no oil pressure in the tranny.

One of the real pita was putting the tranny back in place. I did not completely drop the subframe (per VIDA); it was hanging on the two right-hand side bolts (screwed in for 4 threads or so). So taking it out was relatively easy, but putting back and aligning was quite a long procedure. In the hindsight, I should have taken the subframe completely off.

Also, when installing the clutch I probably pushed the diaphragm too far in with the clutch installation tool (maybe, have no idea as instructions and videos are vague, VIDA suggests 4-4.5 max turns, and I did more per ZF Valeo video), so now it has a really short travel and engages low. However, it's not really an issue, just different now (as before it engaged at the top). May be the engagement point will move up when the clutch wears in.

The tranny is in a good shape, new clutch and the flywheel make the difference. Before, when you release the clutch, the was a thump - I blamed the DMF flywheel.

Hope it helps someone.

[abscate]

One of the real pita was putting the tranny back in place. I did not completely drop the subframe (per VIDA); it was hanging on the two right-hand side bolts (screwed in for 4 threads or so). So taking it out was relatively easy, but putting back and aligning was quite a long procedure. In the hindsight, I should have taken the subframe completely off.

If you line it up with two extra long M10 bolts, it’s a snap crackle pop..

I think pictures are here.

Cut and paste text

User success - The manual transmission only weighs 76 pounds, so it is easy to manipulate from ground. I put two overlength M10 bolts into the top two holes, then walked the transmission up on a floor jack, level, lift, level lift...until I could thread 5 turns on the two bolts. Now I had an alignment jig - and sure enough, the transmission slid right onto the clutch first time. I also took a bit of weight under the engine so I wasn't swaying the engine on the chains when I went to mate the transmission, I raised it 1/2 inch with chains, blocked under it with wood, then lowered until it was firm.

[bg212]

not a bad idea for the next time, thanks.