Front wheel bearing '05 XC70 observations and a question

[abscate]

I’ve never felt good about trying to crack those high torque Exx bolts on the bearing unless the strut was in my bench, so I disconnect the strut and the ball joint and bring the hub off.

Don’t forget to add the right wheel seal in between the hub and brake plate inthe slush belt

[Faust]

,

Don’t forget to add the right wheel seal in between the hub and brake plate in the slush belt

Don't recall it having one.

[abscate]

It’s a highly recommended add on to preserve bearing life.

There are two part numbers so find the right one and add it to the job. It seals the gap between bearing hib and carrier

viewtopic.php?p=593718&hilit=Front+whee ... ng#p593718

[Faust]

side question about the wheel bearing job: are we able to change the front bearings on the xc70's without requiring removal of the strut to knuckle bolts or ball joint? I really want to avoid doing either of those again

I was able to do it. A "universal joint" socket made it possible to remove the hub bolts. Don't think I could have done it without that.

[br0dy519]

It’s a highly recommended add on to preserve bearing life.

There are two part numbers so find the right one and add it to the job. It seals the gap between bearing hib and carrier

viewtopic.php?p=593718&hilit=Front+whee ... ng#p593718

Is this the thing people keep referring to as the "axle dust seal" ?

Also, Thanks Faust, good info to know so that I have the right tools laid out for the job.

[erikv11]

Yes, that's the "dust seal" part. Just did both front wheel bearings on my 07 XC70, and both dust seals. And both tone rings!

[br0dy519]

Yes, that's the "dust seal" part. Just did both front wheel bearings on my 07 XC70, and both dust seals. And both tone rings!

Thanks, how was your experience? Did you remove the strut to knuckle bolts, or the ball joint, or both? How many strikes with the 5lb sledge?

[erikv11]

On one side (passenger) I removed the strut to knuckle bolts and got the hub bearing in and out with the knuckle in the car. Loosening the four bolts on the hub was easy once I had access to the bolt heads with the proper socket/swivel combination. I suggest the 1A Auto video for some insight on that part of it; they don't even loosen up the strut bolts. With the bolts out I knocked it right out of the knuckle, it was not especially frozen. Maybe got lucky there. However the knuckle was badly corroded and I spent a lot of time with a wire brush on a drill, a screwdriver/scraper and a block with sandpaper, to clean up the knuckle before installing the new bearing. For install torquing the hub bolts was a hassle but I got it done.

On the other side (driver) I was replacing the control arm at the same time so I took it completely apart and brought the knuckle to my big bench vise for cleanup. If these bearings ever need replacing again I would expect the knuckles to be ruined by then from corrosion. Yours may be really bad I know salt is heavy up there. Access was much easier for tightening the hub bolts on this job due to having things apart.

For installing the new tone rings use the old ones to tap them on. Had to clean up the axle before install, try not to scrape off the paint though. The passenger side was difficult access with the knuckle in place, the driver's side was a breeze with everything apart.

[Faust]

Also, Thanks Faust, good info to know so that I have the right tools laid out for the job.

Be sure to lift the car so that both front wheels are off the ground. Access to bolts is greatly facilitated by turning the subject wheel to the left and right.

I believe the bolts are 19mm, and they are tight, in addition to thread lock. Be sure you have a breaker bar, perhaps with a pipe to extend it. I would certainly recommend a socket with an integral universal joint. I didn't have one and couldn't obtain one without buying a full set. I managed to do it with a "short" socket and an accessory u-joint. I had to use 3/8 drive, because that is what I had with a u-joint. I did adapt it to a 1/2" breaker bar. I was concerned over breakage. I also used a short "wobbly" extension, that did assist. I am not certain a1/2" drive would fit past the axle, that is why separating it at the control arm is recommended. In any case, it can be done. The difficulty is interference with the axle while in place, so do pry that back against the transmission when possible.. Except for what I think of as the "upper right hand bolt", it is fairly straight forward. I seem to recall needing the wobbly extension on the upper left hand.

So, tools I believe required, short socket, u-joint adapter, wobbly extension. Seems to me I did break a 3/8 wobbly extension, so have two (they're cheap).

As I recall, VIDA recommends separating at the control arm. I can understand that. With proper facilities (a lift) it would greatly facilitate matters.

The ABS ring on mine was cracked and fell off. Considering the $5-6.00 cost, I do wish I had one on hand. Might check before you start.