Busted Strut Tower - 1993 850

[MoVolvos]

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Perhaps it might work. Regardless it should be welded.

Bounce the car and see if the seam has any movement. If it does it means it needs to be welded right away. If it does not flex at all it means the welds have been impact opened and stressed wide which is a better condition to be in.

Unload that wheel by jacking it up. Drill two holes on each side per photo and use some building ties in area similar to photo below as backing and try and close gap before welding. The building tie in the link does not look very thick but there are ones that are. Either long bolts or threaded rods with fender washers and nuts to try and close the gap.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Str ... 06#overlay

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3- ... /204273969

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Strut Tower.png (7.44 MiB) Viewed 587 times

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[BlackBart]

I'd probably start by welding up a stout ( 1/4" ) bracket that captures all three bolts, and weld a piece of angle iron to that, so there is something ridged to push against.

Agree with this idea. Be careful what you are pushing against, as it may not be any stronger than this strut sheet metal.

I'm a bit surprised this isn't a beefier connection on one of the critical structural assemblies on the car. Could it be it's part of the engineered collapse in a front end collision?

I'm also surprised at the magnitude of the hit it took to tear it away like this. Agree with Sveedy that this is a frame shop job with the chassis tied down to the floor.

[Volvebaker]

UPDATE:

Well, I attempted to get it pushed back over and unfortunately it is indeed far harder to move than anticipated. I could not even get it to budge with the strut disconnected. Starting to think this may be a chained down frame shop job now, as previously mentioned.

Additionally, the brace bar I ordered does not line up on my ‘93. It was listed as fitting all models (‘92-‘97), but the ABS control module sits right next to the driver strut stack and, as such, there is no way to get it connected. So that too was a waste.

Back to the drawing board and I’ll have another go at it next weekend. She’s still drivable and I’m still commuting daily, as I have no other option. The alignment it just way out of wack, and must keep the steering tilted to remain straight with a hard pull to the right.

I’ve taken a measurement on the crack (~2mm in the front and ~6mm in the rear where it’s widest) and plan to keep an eye on it to ensure it’s not widening further.

Thanks again everyone. Hopefully the next update holds better news.

P.S. I’m also considering just forgetting the gap (so long as it doesn’t increase) and installing the adjustable camber bolts and/or adjustable camber strut mounts that are available aftermarket. Any thoughts on this?

[BlackBart]

My thought is it’s not a safe car with the structure compromised. I’d fix it.

[Volvebaker]

My thought is it’s not a safe car with the structure compromised. I’d fix it.

I tend to agree, but it seems like it’s gonna be a bit of a bear to get it back where it was

Here’s a new thought brought on by a bit of an update:

I removed the strut completely. Previously I only broke the knuckle connection and left attached at the tower in attempts of using it to bend. Well, the strut mount was incredibly bent! It essentially took on the shape of the tower it attaches to. I replaced the strut with a brand new one I ordered prior. The wheel is now sitting far straighter, the negative camber is now almost completely gone. However, I’ve still yet to get it aligned.

Here’s my new thought: install the adjustable camber knuckle bolts and go get it aligned. If they’re able to align it as is with my adjustments then, rather than simply ignore the gap, I’m considering leaving it but just tack welding across the top to ensure it doesn’t move again.

I know this is not ideal, but sometimes you have to do what you have to do . I do want to reiterate, the strut tower is still fully in tact the whole rest of the way around. It simply pulled away the, I’m assuming, seam sealer at the top. It does not appear it was welded at all across the top, but the welds that I do see are all still in tact.

So my thoughts: if I can get it aligned as is with the new strut and camber adjustment bolts, would it be that insane to just tack weld it as is to hold it where she’s at?

Additionally, it may be prudent to mention I can see a crack running down the same “seam sealer,” or whatever it may be, on the passenger side, which has never had any serious impact. My belief is the reason it’s seam sealed, and not welded, is it needs to be allowed to flex just a little with strut movement.

I don’t know haha. These are just my thoughts now. I appreciate all the input and advice and welcome more to come. For some reason I love this car to death; I’ll do just about anything to keep her on the road forever.

[Volvebaker]

P.S. Here’s a shot of the brace bar issue. Does anyone know of a brace bar that accounts for the ‘93 ABS sensor? I was really excited to install this bar for the added tightness/stability, even if it didn’t fix my issue, so I was pretty upset it didn’t work.

EA3AF134-745F-4CD5-899F-747B529507AB.jpeg (664.6 KiB) Viewed 513 times

[Sveedy]

Mine isn't the same set up as yours, but it looks like a OEM bar would clear it.

IMG_20221106_134410962.jpg (496.96 KiB) Viewed 504 times

Don't know why the pic is upside down...

[Clemens]

No, the OEM bar doesn't clear the old ABS unit. I have the OEM bar on my 96 and my 94, and on the 94 I had to relocate the ABS module. Just unbolt the ABS module bracket and move the module towards the firewall. I'd try to install a strut brace by any means and at least weld the strut tower in place where it is now. From there you can use workaround solutions like the adjustable camber plate.

[Volvebaker]

Sorry to update a dying thread, but I didn’t want to leave everyone hanging, and/or future searchers.

I, unfortunately, have yet to repair this. However, as previously mentioned, I marked two spots (top and bottom) of the separation and the measurements of these gaps has not moved even a hair, 15k+ miles later.

Additionally, I am good friends with a body shop, that did the original body work and repainting, as well as the second go around after I took out a deer, and they essentially guaranteed and assured me that it would not move any further, save for another hard it. They recommended I get it aligned, to ensure it could still be aligned, and, if it could, to simply fill the separation with panel bonder.

To give full transparency, I must admit, I have still yet to get it aligned. I originally postponed as I didn’t want to pay to have it aligned and then have to bend/pull the gap back and then pay to have it realigned. Additionally, after I replaced the bent strut, it is pretty much back to normal save for a bad toe and the strut tower gap. However, I also did order, and have in hand, cam bolts to allow for full adjustment of the camber when I do get it into an alignment shop.

I know it’s absurd I’ve drove it for so long without even attempting an alignment, but, as I’m sure many of you can understand and agree, life keeps rolling and sometimes you have to do what you have to do to keep things (including Volvo 850’s when they’re your primary mode of transportation) rolling.

If this thread isn’t closed by the time I do have it aligned, and fill the gap with bonder, if alignment is possible, then I will update once more just to help future 850 lovers.

Thanks again to all the advice and tips. Love this site. There’s no better Volvo forum.

[Volvebaker]

No, the OEM bar doesn't clear the old ABS unit. I have the OEM bar on my 96 and my 94, and on the 94 I had to relocate the ABS module. Just unbolt the ABS module bracket and move the module towards the firewall. I'd try to install a strut brace by any means and at least weld the strut tower in place where it is now. From there you can use workaround solutions like the adjustable camber plate.

I also have wanted to reach out to you. Do you have any photos or recommendations on the relocation? I’m trying to see how I can relocate the ABS sensor, and I know, especially confirmed by your response), that it can be done I just don’t know where to move it to.