Busted Strut Tower - 1993 850

[Volvebaker]

Swerved to miss a deer (the same animal that has thrice prior destroyed my beloved 850) and hit a median incredibly hard.

It blew my tire, busted up the rim, and I thought bent my strut however, I now see that the bang was so hard it actually broke the strut tower away from the body.

Can this be fixed? Once I get the strut out could we pull it back over and weld it? Would it be better to drill out a replacement at the yard and weld it in?

Thanks for any help/advice.

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[Volvebaker]

After further inspection, I’m not so sure it was ever actually welded across the top. I can see the tack welds going down the sides and they are still in tack. However it’s more like a yellowish, semi-spongey material that split away.

Maybe it’s bondo or seam sealer? I’m more hopeful now that it can be pulled back over and repaired...

[Sveedy]

Well I hate to be negative, but I can't see how you could pull / push that back in place. No point to anchor to that wouldn't give first.
A good frame shop could chain the car down and get that back in place.
But if your really really set on doing it yourself, then park next to a big tree and set up a 4 x 4 and use a porta-power to push it back. It MIGHT go back before the car starts to slide sideways.

I feel your pain...

[Volvebaker]

Well I hate to be negative, but I can't see how you could pull / push that back in place. No point to anchor to that wouldn't give first.
A good frame shop could chain the car down and get that back in place.
But if your really really set on doing it yourself, then park next to a big tree and set up a 4 x 4 and use a porta-power to push it back. It MIGHT go back before the car starts to slide sideways.

I feel your pain...

Thanks for the response!

You really don’t think it could be done? It’s just a thin sheet metal housing it mounts to. I’m imagining: with it up, wheel off and strut out that there’s not really much at all supporting it and it could be pushed back over?

Additionally, I’m thinking of adding a strut brace bar that they make for these models. My thinking is that, with the bar being a solid piece, and holes based on original location, if I can get it pushed over to line up w/ the brace holes that it would not only push it over, but also hold it there.

Thanks for any new thoughts you might add!

EDIT: P.S. I am NOT dead set on “doing it myself.” I have a body shop close friend and I’ve been talking with him about it as is (he’s the one that told me looked more like seam sealer than welded) but he needs to see it in person first. Just fishing for some thoughts/ideas from fellow Volvo lovers as myself.

[Sveedy]

Perfect time for that beer with a body work friend ! I am always inclined to try and do thing myself, so if it is indeed thin enough to pull over then great. I just think that it's probably a bit thicker considering what it's doing. And yes on the strut tower brace. Makes quite a difference.

[Sveedy]

I think it will affect alignment if it's not right. It just seems like the force generated from an impact is harder to undo with just pulling and pushing.
But certainly fixable none the less.

[scot850]

If it has been hit that hard, I would take a very close look at the subframe and the mounting points for the control arm.

Neil.

[abscate]

Definitely inspect subframe and control arms / ball joints. I’m trying to see how the forces got transmitted to lateral strut tower displacement.

A 4 mm deflection up top won’t be a large change at the bottom so there is hope for getting it aligned again

[Volvebaker]

Perfect time for that beer with a body work friend ! I am always inclined to try and do thing myself, so if it is indeed thin enough to pull over then great. I just think that it's probably a bit thicker considering what it's doing. And yes on the strut tower brace. Makes quite a difference.

It is a lot thicker than I originally thought. I’m also of the same DIY mindset, so I’ll be working right alongside him as we attempt at a fix, if I’m not able to do it on my own before.

If it has been hit that hard, I would take a very close look at the subframe and the mounting points for the control arm.

Neil.

Definitely inspect subframe and control arms / ball joints. I’m trying to see how the forces got transmitted to lateral strut tower displacement.

A 4 mm deflection up top won’t be a large change at the bottom so there is hope for getting it aligned again

I have been closely inspecting all related parts and really cannot find any additional damage or bending. I guess the wheel took such a hard hit that it transmitted through the strut and pulled it away, breaking that seam sealer, or whatever it may be, exactly.

abscate, the bend up top has had a noticeable effect on the wheel and alignment:

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Sorry, I wish I could orient it vertical but alas, that’s how it is posting. As you can see however, it now has a noticeable negative camber, and the steering wheel is at about a 45° left angle to keep the car straight.

I too am thinking that the brace bar would be the best possible fix for this, as it will also give me a way to firmly grab the tower and push it without damaging another anchor point, as mentioned previously by Sveedy.

Here’s a few more shots from within the wheel well that give a better shot of the damage from below as well as how the strut tower is attached.

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Thanks again,everyone-keep the thoughts, opinions, and advice coming! I’ll keep you all posted on the progress.

[Sveedy]

I'd probably start by welding up a stout ( 1/4" ) bracket that captures all three bolts, and weld a piece of angle iron to that, so there is something ridged to push against.