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Where would you start if you fixed it? 2003 XC70 Wiring From Previous Owner, Epic Fault Codes

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volvolugnut
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Year and Model: 2001 V70
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Post by volvolugnut »

When I go look at used cars to buy, strange wiring modifications is a big negative.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
John Deere 214 lawn tractor about 1977 model
And others.

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jonesg
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Year and Model: 2004 V70
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Post by jonesg »

at least you got it at a discount to defray these repairs.

daninater
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Joined: 30 Sep 2019, 16:36
Year and Model: 2003 XC70
Location: Fargo, North Dakota
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Post by daninater »

Test post.

daninater
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Post by daninater »

Ok, so I first repaired a dash cluster and got it online. Then when I could see at least something when the car started, I finally removed that stupid relay today. And it cleared almost all of the codes. I still have an alarm/sunroof switch indicator and a door module code that needs addressing. WAY BETTER THAN A CEM THING. That's a relief, now I can focus on the more regular repairs.

daninater
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Post by daninater »

I was able to restore fog light functionality a few moments ago after switching this off in the CEM with my 80 dollar ebay CEM--with all the relays. It's paying for itself:

Genuine volvo
SKU: VOL-9442190
Volvo Relay Resistor Module - Genuine Volvo 9442190

Now, as far as the headlights are concerned somethings jacked on the low beam H7's. Currently neither of them work for low beams or whatever that is really dim in the photo. Bulb is lost in the wrong socket or additionally jacked up. I don't even think that looks like the correct place for a headlight just shooting from the hip here... Opposite plug (passenger side) is broken with just wire connectors, they're loose. There are also two plugs that are just zip tied onto the harness. I assume that's for a feature I don't have or HIDs I'm not using... Multimeter isn't picking up anything at the socket passenger side for voltage. Multimeter at fuse box isn't picking up anything. I really need to verify that the same resistor module I swapped is in the right place or that it's grounded out right for low beams, in the morning.
IMG_3552.PNG

daninater
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Post by daninater »

Low beam headlights have been restored. There was a shunt completely missing from the CEM, but comparing it to another post discussing failed low beams I saw where it was supposed to go, placed the spare off the parts computer I bought on ebay and whammy she's got low beams again.

Also, did both cam seals and the timing belt/water pump earlier this week and aside from one bush league error (I put a crankshaft seal on the camshaft then had to remove it #facepalm) it's all well. And reading my last sentence closely - I still need to do the tensioner because I ordered the next generation part. So, what better time to do that then when I i'm pulling the timing belt off a second time to do the oil pump seal.

Got VIDA working on a laptop, I'm not computer illiterate but holy, had to reach out to my friend in IT who did a direct install on Windows 10.

daninater
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Post by daninater »

Completed

- [x] Timing belt replaced
- [x ] Removed 12V battery disconnect relay
- [x] Water pump replaced
- [x] Camshaft gaskets replaced
- [x] Oil change - crushed filter
- [x] Thermostat housing/sensor replaced
- [x] Low beam headlights restored (Relay and shunt replaced on CEM)
- [x] Fog lights restored (shunt replaced on CEM)
- [x] Dash cluster replaced

This week Need to:
-Replace Oil Pump seal and sprocket gaskets (finish from timing belt job - earlier user error)
-timing belt tensioner (repeat job wrong part)
-Restore Cooling fan functionality troubleshoot
-adjust exhaust camshaft

Then...
-deactivate alarm system and/or replace module
-haledex pump/controller rebuild $150-250

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