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Delayed Sputter?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
1983 - 1992 740
1982 - 1991 760
1986 - 1991 780
1990 - 1998 940
1990 - 1998 960
1997 - 1998 V90/S90

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billofdurham
MVS Moderator
Posts: 6507
Joined: 2 February 2006
Year and Model: 855, 1995
Location: Durham, England
Been thanked: 5 times

Post by billofdurham »

How does the ignition timing advance work,
Two systems are used: centrifugal and vacuum.

With the engine idling at normal operating temperature and the vacuum pipe removed the timing marks on the pulley and the cover should appear stationary and should be aligned. Inside the distributor is the centrifugal advance which, as the engine speed increases, causes the marks to separate. When the vacuum pipe is re-connected the marks will move further apart as the engine speed increases because of the vacuum advance. To adjust the timing loosen the clamp at the bottom of the distributor and turn the distributor until the marks are aligned.

If you can not see a difference in the timing as you increase the engine revs then it is possible that the centrifugal advance is not working as it should.
he says it was specifically the timing advance they reset
I don't think it is possible to reset the timing advance as such. The car is continually adjusting that as you drive. They probably advanced the ignition.

The throttle switch is actually a double micro-switch. One switch is activated at idle and the other during 'full load' conditions. So it should click as soon as you put pressure on it but should also click when you get to 'full load' conditions.

One thing I did not ask about is the condition of the air filter element. Make sure it is clean.

Also check the ground wires on the intake manifold. There are quite a few so make sure they are all correctly connected. Check the connectors for the air mass meter, air control valve, knock sensor and coolant temperature sensor. They should be all correctly connected and not loose. Check that the knock sensor and coolant temperature sensor wires have not been interchanged by a previous owner. The knock sensor wires are green and the coolant temp sensor yellow.

Most multi-meters will measure resistance. I alway use digital for accuracy. I have not compiled the resistances yet but should be able to post them tomorrow if you still need them.

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

Kushballz
Posts: 17
Joined: 6 August 2005
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by Kushballz »

Okay so I've got an update as of Thursday 8 2007.

I was talking to my friend's father (retired Volvo mechanic) and he said that on some of the aftermarket distributor rotors, sometimes they don't have the right resistance inside of them. I measured the resistance of my rotor and it was around 1K ohms. It needs to read 5K

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billofdurham
MVS Moderator
Posts: 6507
Joined: 2 February 2006
Year and Model: 855, 1995
Location: Durham, England
Been thanked: 5 times

Post by billofdurham »

[quote]I measured the resistance of my rotor and it was around 1K ohms. It needs to read 5K
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

Kushballz
Posts: 17
Joined: 6 August 2005
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by Kushballz »

Found the problem! Turned out that the air mass meter's burn-off cycle wasn't working, and the two wires for the engine coolant temperature sensor were bare inside of the wire harness and were shorting out.

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