Probably doing a first start tomorrow. Hope it works. (Cracked cylinder head) Topic is solved

Post by **abscate** » 18 Jun 2023, 15:49

Get that tensioner set up,tight, make sure the fingers are in the right part of the block before you set the spike. Remember you go past the 12 o/c then come back to it, then tighten the bolt.

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 19 Jun 2023, 00:05

That's what I did. Here's what happens. If i tighten the center bolt too much the needle cannot move. So I have to loosen the center bolt a bit and then I can move the needle( i am obviously using the allen key if it wasnt clear). But when I do set it at 12 o'clock and then tighten the bolt the needle goes past 12 o'clock as I tighten the center bolt. Then after I am done, after a few minutes needle somehow goes back all the way to the left say at 9 o clock.

I had quite a few people message me on FB telling me that I have over-tightened the timing belt, but the rattling sound was likely a busted harmonic balancer.

Post by **abscate** » 19 Jun 2023, 03:07

Forgot we are in the P2 Forum. The direction of the timing belt tensioner tension changes in the p2 based on VIN or engine number, do find that data and check against your engine number and make sure your procedure is right

There are two variants of the belt tensioner.
Up to engine number 3188688 the eccentric must be turned clockwise when loosening.
From engine number 3188689 the eccentric must be turned anticlockwise to loosen the belt tension.

You set it with the bolt loose then hold it at the 12 o’clock with the Allen key while you tighten the bolt. Torque on the bolt is not high, don’t overtighten. (20 Nm/15 ftlb)

Check that the tensioner moves with pressure on the belt between the cam pulleys and the exhaust and water pump pulley

If it moves more than the temperature range indicates, replace it. That’s a whole cylinder head job if it fails. You can get a bad one new in box, so be aware here.

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 19 Jun 2023, 07:41

I think we managed to loosen it. Now it's play is smaller. Although I seem to have bent the little indicator pins.

As for the harmonic balancer rattling, we discovered it may be from the serpentine belt itself, since that and the serpentine belt tensioner are the old ones which I have not replaced.
The rattling disappeared when pouring water on the belt, which is an old-school technique to determine the condition of the belt. As soon as some water was added, it temporarily stopped rattling, starting again when the water evaporates.

We will first try a new serpentine belt, and then a tensioner if the new belt itself doesn't fix it, as the tensioner isn't inexpensive..

Also needed to install a cam seal where the camshaft sensor housing is, none was supplied with the kit I got, however there are two styles. One rubber type and another with a thin metal inside, wasn't clear which one to get so I ordered the rubber one.

I also did a compression test, but the battery may have been too low, as you know a compression test does not revel leaks, this only happens with a leak down tester.

Cyl 1 - 180 psi
Cyl 2 - 190 psi
Cyl 3 - 190 psi
Cyl 4 - 190 psi
Cyl 5 - 150 psi.

I then did another test on Cyl 1 and it came up 200 psi, while Cyl 5 consinstently got 150 psi. Before the head rebuild, Cyl 4 and 5 consistently got 200 psi. I will re-test once the car is running to see what may have happened.

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 20 Jun 2023, 09:47

Thunder in paradise. It was fine for a while. Then something happened and it smokes a lot. For sure either a piston ring snapped or what I think happened was something valve related.

No strange noises while idling which is weird.

Post by **vtl** » 20 Jun 2023, 09:58

Snapped ring is no compression in that cylinder.

What kind of smoke? Oil? Coolant?

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 20 Jun 2023, 10:59

Oil for sure, it smells like burned rubber, blue in color, so oil for sure.

Post by **abscate** » 20 Jun 2023, 19:40

Run it fir a bit and see if you can isolate the cylinder

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 20 Jun 2023, 23:53

I think i found the culprit. Cracked cylinder head between 4th and 5th cylinder because of massive oil leak inside both cylinders. Likely caused by the improper installation of the exhaust camshaft.

Oil in coolant reservoir in large quantities.

Post by **vtl** » 21 Jun 2023, 07:20

I don't think you can crack the head with the camshaft installed incorrectly. Can crack valve cover, though.

I think what happened is piston rings failed and let oil accumulating in combustion chamber(s), eventually causing a hydrolock and head gasket damage.

Anyways, make a lot of good pictures for you own reference in the future.

Probably doing a first start tomorrow. Hope it works. (Cracked cylinder head) Topic is solved

Re: Probably doing a first start tomorrow. Hope it works.