Water pump 3 broken bolts
- ZionXIX
- Posts: 1310
- Joined: 11 August 2014
- Year and Model: 1996 850 Turbo S/W
- Location: Texas
- Has thanked: 64 times
- Been thanked: 194 times
Re: Water pump 3 broken bolts
If you buy the "OE" Aisin pump from FCP, it does not come with bolts.
Scarlett: 1996 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl ~210K mi
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle
-
jsrnsis
- Posts: 294
- Joined: 26 April 2021
- Year and Model: P80 enjoyer
- Location: Hudson Valley, New York
- Has thanked: 25 times
- Been thanked: 68 times
An update to this.
100mm is the magic number for clearance of the bottom bolts.
I tried for about 6 hours welding nuts onto the end of the studs with no success. I tried different nuts, washers, small racks built up, just gunning it, pre heating the area. A few attempts took enough force that it exceeded the initial force that broke the bolt in the first place. I practiced before hand by welding the same type of nut to the threaded end of an old water pump bolt, this nut got red hot, and the joint was so good that when I finally got it to break, it ended up just breaking the bolt, not shearing off the weld. I believe the block is too big of a heat sink to get a good enough joint, but I'm just a guy with a harbor freight welder so thats speculation.
I also tried to use a "rocketsocket" on built up weld bead, but the shape was too irregular, it would strip the outside layer off but the material that was left was too hard for the flutes to dig in.
After these attempts, we decided to drill it out. After spending a good amount of time marking out the center and using a tiny tiny Dremel ball end bit to make a divot (center punch won't fit in) we found out just how hard weld bead is. Drill bits made almost no progress, with no further hole after a couple of turns. Even tried Milwaukee cobalt bits. Tried the same bits in the same water pump bolt I practiced welding on and they dug in like it was hot butter.
I'm waiting on a right angle Dremel attachment to come in the mail, because these diamond burrs seem to have no trouble getting through. After seeing how hard the weld bead is, I might also try building a bead on the end of the studs again and cutting a slot for a flathead, and using a 3/8 drive screwdriver socket.
And something else I found out after removing the plastic timing belt back cover is that the bolt holes on the bottom left portion are through-holes, so if I end up mangling the threads I can put a longer bolt through and secure with a nut in the back. Not sure why they left the back open to corrosion though, I'm thinking that's why these are seized in so tight.
100mm is the magic number for clearance of the bottom bolts.
I tried for about 6 hours welding nuts onto the end of the studs with no success. I tried different nuts, washers, small racks built up, just gunning it, pre heating the area. A few attempts took enough force that it exceeded the initial force that broke the bolt in the first place. I practiced before hand by welding the same type of nut to the threaded end of an old water pump bolt, this nut got red hot, and the joint was so good that when I finally got it to break, it ended up just breaking the bolt, not shearing off the weld. I believe the block is too big of a heat sink to get a good enough joint, but I'm just a guy with a harbor freight welder so thats speculation.
I also tried to use a "rocketsocket" on built up weld bead, but the shape was too irregular, it would strip the outside layer off but the material that was left was too hard for the flutes to dig in.
After these attempts, we decided to drill it out. After spending a good amount of time marking out the center and using a tiny tiny Dremel ball end bit to make a divot (center punch won't fit in) we found out just how hard weld bead is. Drill bits made almost no progress, with no further hole after a couple of turns. Even tried Milwaukee cobalt bits. Tried the same bits in the same water pump bolt I practiced welding on and they dug in like it was hot butter.
I'm waiting on a right angle Dremel attachment to come in the mail, because these diamond burrs seem to have no trouble getting through. After seeing how hard the weld bead is, I might also try building a bead on the end of the studs again and cutting a slot for a flathead, and using a 3/8 drive screwdriver socket.
And something else I found out after removing the plastic timing belt back cover is that the bolt holes on the bottom left portion are through-holes, so if I end up mangling the threads I can put a longer bolt through and secure with a nut in the back. Not sure why they left the back open to corrosion though, I'm thinking that's why these are seized in so tight.
1998 V70XC black 183xxx
2014 S80 T6 AWD 110xxx
1998 V70XC nautic blue 155xxx
1997 850 GLT 123xxx
2024 Honda CRF110F
Previous Volvos:
1997 850 GLT 239,577
1998 V70 NA silver 202,510
1994 850 NA gray 125,000
1998 V70 NA white 163xxx
2014 S80 T6 AWD 110xxx
1998 V70XC nautic blue 155xxx
1997 850 GLT 123xxx
2024 Honda CRF110F
Previous Volvos:
1997 850 GLT 239,577
1998 V70 NA silver 202,510
1994 850 NA gray 125,000
1998 V70 NA white 163xxx
- volvolugnut
- Posts: 6231
- Joined: 19 January 2014
- Year and Model: 2001 V70
- Location: Oklahoma USA
- Has thanked: 927 times
- Been thanked: 1000 times
Did you try impact on the broken bolts? Just a few sharp hammer blows on the end may loosen the bolt some. Also if you get a slot in the end of the bolt, try an impact screw driver like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8- ... /205674679
These impact screw drivers really can work on stuck screws. You can also make a adapter for small sockets.
volvolugnut
https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8- ... /205674679
These impact screw drivers really can work on stuck screws. You can also make a adapter for small sockets.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
-
jsrnsis
- Posts: 294
- Joined: 26 April 2021
- Year and Model: P80 enjoyer
- Location: Hudson Valley, New York
- Has thanked: 25 times
- Been thanked: 68 times
No room to swing a hammer, I don't know if that would even fit in the area between the frame and engine. Didn't impact on the bolts taking out, not sure if I used one of those low profile impacts if it would have freed the bolt or just ended up snapping it as well.volvolugnut wrote: ↑09 Nov 2023, 07:40 Did you try impact on the broken bolts? Just a few sharp hammer blows on the end may loosen the bolt some. Also if you get a slot in the end of the bolt, try an impact screw driver like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8- ... /205674679
These impact screw drivers really can work on stuck screws. You can also make a adapter for small sockets.
volvolugnut
1998 V70XC black 183xxx
2014 S80 T6 AWD 110xxx
1998 V70XC nautic blue 155xxx
1997 850 GLT 123xxx
2024 Honda CRF110F
Previous Volvos:
1997 850 GLT 239,577
1998 V70 NA silver 202,510
1994 850 NA gray 125,000
1998 V70 NA white 163xxx
2014 S80 T6 AWD 110xxx
1998 V70XC nautic blue 155xxx
1997 850 GLT 123xxx
2024 Honda CRF110F
Previous Volvos:
1997 850 GLT 239,577
1998 V70 NA silver 202,510
1994 850 NA gray 125,000
1998 V70 NA white 163xxx
- volvolugnut
- Posts: 6231
- Joined: 19 January 2014
- Year and Model: 2001 V70
- Location: Oklahoma USA
- Has thanked: 927 times
- Been thanked: 1000 times
You are really between a rock and a hard spot.
volvolugnutr
volvolugnutr
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 35284
- Joined: 17 February 2013
- Year and Model: 99: V70s S70s,05 V70
- Location: Port Jefferson Long Island NY
- Has thanked: 1502 times
- Been thanked: 3817 times
I hate to even mention it but my Engine picker is on Long Island and we could get it up to you if needed.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- Sveedy
- Posts: 2069
- Joined: 11 November 2019
- Year and Model: 96 850 Turbo
- Location: N. Arizona
- Has thanked: 417 times
- Been thanked: 457 times
^ That's where I'm thinking this is headed....
Might as well make the most of it, and start thinking of other things that can be done while it's out.
Might as well make the most of it, and start thinking of other things that can be done while it's out.
Try to learn life's bad lessons vicariously through others.
1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT
1996 850 Turbo GLH ( Goes Like Hell )
1999 V70 GLT
-
454cid
- Posts: 1250
- Joined: 6 January 2022
- Year and Model: 1996 850
- Location: United States
- Has thanked: 145 times
- Been thanked: 129 times
I have a set of import copies of the Rocketsockets, and they do work. I found that I needed to hammer/tap the socket in place, first. I was disassembling the very rusted battery tray from the inner fender on a 69 Buick Electra.
You have a situation on your hands that I would be very distraught over.... broken bolts AND no room to work.
1996 850
1999 S70 GLT (sold after deer hit)
2010 Ford Focus SE
2006 Cadillac CTS
1996 Mercedes C220
1999 Chevrolet K3500
1969 Buick LeSabre Custom 400
1999 S70 GLT (sold after deer hit)
2010 Ford Focus SE
2006 Cadillac CTS
1996 Mercedes C220
1999 Chevrolet K3500
1969 Buick LeSabre Custom 400
-
jsrnsis
- Posts: 294
- Joined: 26 April 2021
- Year and Model: P80 enjoyer
- Location: Hudson Valley, New York
- Has thanked: 25 times
- Been thanked: 68 times
Using the side of a carpenters hammer and many small taps let me get the rocket socket on part of the stud sticking out that it just machined down, there wasn't very much to grab on. They work really well where there's an actual stripped head to grab on to, those little brake rotor retention screw/pins get pretty soft and prone to rounding off.454cid wrote: ↑09 Nov 2023, 12:04I have a set of import copies of the Rocketsockets, and they do work. I found that I needed to hammer/tap the socket in place, first. I was disassembling the very rusted battery tray from the inner fender on a 69 Buick Electra.
You have a situation on your hands that I would be very distraught over.... broken bolts AND no room to work.
Well having the engine out would make getting the timing and serpentine belts back on a lot easier at least. It's hard to think what else would need to be changed other than anything I break getting the engine ready for removal.
If it comes down to it I might have to take you up on the offer. The guides for engine removal out of the top look pretty straightforward, but once a job gets started it seems nothing is simple.
I just keep telling myself that if the timing belt ended up snapping or the pump went out in 10,000 miles I'd be in a much harder spot. I think I have a semi-permanent residence between a rock and a hard spot by now.
1998 V70XC black 183xxx
2014 S80 T6 AWD 110xxx
1998 V70XC nautic blue 155xxx
1997 850 GLT 123xxx
2024 Honda CRF110F
Previous Volvos:
1997 850 GLT 239,577
1998 V70 NA silver 202,510
1994 850 NA gray 125,000
1998 V70 NA white 163xxx
2014 S80 T6 AWD 110xxx
1998 V70XC nautic blue 155xxx
1997 850 GLT 123xxx
2024 Honda CRF110F
Previous Volvos:
1997 850 GLT 239,577
1998 V70 NA silver 202,510
1994 850 NA gray 125,000
1998 V70 NA white 163xxx
- volvolugnut
- Posts: 6231
- Joined: 19 January 2014
- Year and Model: 2001 V70
- Location: Oklahoma USA
- Has thanked: 927 times
- Been thanked: 1000 times
I am guessing the 850 does not have removable/foldable soft inner fenders like the P2 models. With the P2, you can get some access from the outside with the wheel off.
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 0 Replies
- 475 Views
-
Last post by DXC70
-
- 5 Replies
- 1860 Views
-
Last post by MadeInJapan






