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P1332 (Knock Sensor) and P0014 (Cam Timing) – Could This Be ETM Related? [1999 Volvo S70 GLT]

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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ericmci
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Re: P1332 (Knock Sensor) and P0014 (Cam Timing) – Could This Be ETM Related? [1999 Volvo S70 GLT]

Post by ericmci »

In the past I have noticed that an oil change would delay the issue, being the camshaft position sensor code- for a bit but it thwos the code almost every other day in traffic now.
I usually change my oil well ahead of time for the last 10 years but we bought the car second hand.
I will say that about once a year I get my oil analyzed by Blackstone Labs and in the comment section they remarked that I 'could go longer between intervals' which was nice to read.
I am coming up on a change this summer.

But the idle has always been super steady until this past year- and never balked at acceleration.

Maybe I was looking at the symptom as the cause and not the other way around with this new issue.
If the engine bogs down or hesitates,(Crankshaft Position Sensor)/ ETM/ TPS- the transmission might not downshift fast because RPMs don’t match expected behavior right?

As is often the case I might have a couple of issues that are unrelated but live in the same neighborhood.

There are a lot of people on the east coast that say they know Volvos not as many that actually know the quirks of the P80's
And even less that don't want to aim the parts cannon at those quirks.

I am going to clean the sensors to start: Might just do the trick.
And if not then get the timing checked.
And it is possible that I just might end up having to replace the ETM for the TPS sensor since it is internal to the module on my car correct?

She is such a good car- she just needs me to throw some dedicated stretches of time at the problem(s)

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Post by Vova585 »

In my mind cause-effect relationship is "never happened prior to the timming belt change" so until you will verify 100% all is done correctly with the timing marks and cvvt loaded correctly all the other factors should other be considered. You need to be 100% sure that basics are done correctly and only than go to search for gremlins.

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ericmci
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Post by ericmci »

I mean you're right.
The idle issue is new but the Camshaft position sensor is pre existing - but was very seldom and now is frequent.
So I am leaning towards cleaning.
But I also confess some trepidation about checking it myself.
I don't really have a driveway to work for extended periods right now and I think it's a bit of a process to check the marks on my car?
And money is tight for a shop at the moment.

Is it all that involved to check it?

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Post by Vova585 »

I would probably suggest not to do anything then. If you are not confident about your skills and not able to have access to a secure place where you can work on a car and money are tight..maybe put a craigslist add "volvo gear head needed to help with timming belt, pizza,beer and appreciation guaranteed ". Maybe someone local retired will feel like helping you with this at his place. (I am constantly loaning my vida to local volvo addicts, so maybe there are nice people in your area as well).

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ericmci
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Post by ericmci »

I mean- I've replaced my engine mounts- full suspension front and rear-
ABS Module- heater core etc.
But I've heard it's a bit tricky to get right.
I should probably just watch a few videos and find a space.
Is it necessary to remove the water pump to be able to see properly?

I would feel more concern for someone I don't know doing the job.
I have had issues with 'European' mechanic shops knicking a transfer case and replacing the wrong axle on this car
and they were certified.
As I was saying before it's not easy finding people who are familiar with this car.

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Post by Vova585 »

You dont have to remove the water pump. Please review video link that i sent prior. That guy explains it all in great detail. I would prefer to have camshaft locking tool to do this job correctly. Or at least remove rear cam plugs and verify that cams are in correct horizontal plane as seen in the video.
I agree that "everyone sucks" many people in my area the moment I say "volvo" start to spit and turn around 3 times at the same time saying "hell no, not working on euro, no eurotrash, thank you, but boss said no". When I am tired/busy I usually give dealer a little work, but mostly have to do it myself as therapeutic measure. For my non-volvo cars I drive 1.5 hours away to the trusted mechanic, because "if you know-you know"

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Post by ericmci »

I just finished watching the video- very helpful.

So- I am thinking that if i can locate all three marks as in they are clean and clear from the vantage point of being in the bay-
with a light and perhaps a mirror and the marks are lined up correctly-
Start the engine i.e. turn it over twice and re-check and still lined up- then I can move on from the timing belt being the culprit?

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Post by Vova585 »

At least you will have some data to operate. Still, if to imagine that vvt hub was removed during timing belt job, you will need cam shaft locking tool to verify proper alignment of the camshaft and to properly "load" the vvt hub. I would be happy to give you my kit, but shipping to you and back would be not economical. It is only $45 for used unit on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/YUAN-Crankshaft- ... 0498&psc=1 I think this is the one i have. I never used crank holder tool, but the rest was ok quality for the job. Metal quality is not great, but price is not astronomical as well.

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Post by Vova585 »

You always can have 2 separate issues. 1 cam and 2nd for crank. Without having the basics verified we will be going around and around. On the other note quick search showed possible test of knock se sor which can be done without disasembling much of the car. I would opt to have small t-pins or needle adaptors not to damage connector
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticl ... cement.htm

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Post by Vova585 »

While thinking about this issue a little longer-another possible offender is oil control solenoid. I think i might have the same code on my 01 years and years ago that was fixed with a used oil control valve. Maybe try to remove yours and see it is sticking or has a lot of wear on plunger. Or at least try to clean it. Possibly would be best to grab one from the donor vehicle and and play with it as a cheap insurance that your car would still be operational in case you will have problems putting it all back together. However I doubt that your "idle hunting" is due to vvt control issue. Wish you all the luck on this one.

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