1999 S70 - Water Pump, Timing Belt - P0014

deaddirewolf · Post by **deaddirewolf** » 04 Jul 2025, 15:30

Hello all,

Well, I'm not sure what I did.

1999 S70 135k. Radiator blew when my kid had it out of town. Towed it to a local shop there I've know for years. They replaced the radiator. They said they though the water pump was going bad. I drove it home and today I replaced the water pump. I thought the timing belt had been replaced recently, but upon further inspection, probably had not been changed since 72k. So today, I just replaced the water pump with thoughts of doing the timing belt soon. I followed these posts here for water pump, timing and tensioner here...

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/s70-r ... ater-pump/

viewtopic.php?t=62778&sid=cb35c599598ee ... a3eccb63f8

After some difficulty with the tensioner, at one point the cams moved although I had them zip tied (not well enough apparently), I got it back together. I checked the timing belt marks. They looked good. Put it all back together. Fired it up. No leaks. Let it warm up. Sounded normal (the way it's always sounded anyway). Took it for a spin. Smooth as silk. Maybe 5 miles. Pulling back into the driveway, the check engine light comes on. The car is still running smooth. Turned it off to investigate. I put an OBD-II on it...

P0014 'B' Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance Bank 1

Ugh. I'm guessing I did *not* have the time marks right and I was off an notch. I pulled off the timing belt cover and checked the timing marks. It looks spot on to me. I did have trouble with the tensioner when putting it back. Tension feels good. However, could the tension be the problem?

I have not cleared the check engine code.

Another note. I hear a noise at that's always been there since I bought the car used about 5 years and 40k miles ago. I wondering if it's the idler bearing? It looks worn. Like it wasn't replaced when they did the timing belt. Timing belt looks good. Tensioner seems to hold tension.

Any ideas what I may have done wrong? Or anything to check? Should I clear the code and run it out a bit? I saw a post somewhere somebody mentioned a wire harness might be loose but I don't see anything obvious.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 04 Jul 2025, 22:12

It sounds like you are quite advanced DIY. Respect to you for doing all the work. My guess is that your timing .arks are off. At this point I would suggest to get cam holder tool($45 on amazon) and do this job correctly. You can put crankshaft into tdc using marks without using special crankshaft holder tool. At the same time replace the idler roller and have piece of mind(water pump done, timing belt new, you are almost there). At the same time it is 1999 and 135k. Consider replacing cam, crank, oil pump seals while you are doing all this work. Least thing you want if your belt will be covered in oil in 1 week and you have to do this again. Cam and crank seals are best to be installed via spacial adaptors. Recently one of the members was giving 3d prints of them. Or buy from fcp they are around $40 each. You are saving at least $750 in labor, so can justify proper tools and maybe even some extra wrenches from Harbor Freight Icon series(totally happy with mine)

Post by **foggydogg** » 04 Jul 2025, 22:41

deaddirewolf wrote: ↑04 Jul 2025, 15:30

Another note. I hear a noise at that's always been there since I bought the car used about 5 years and 40k miles ago. I wondering if it's the idler bearing? It looks worn. Like it wasn't replaced when they did the timing belt. Timing belt looks good. Tensioner seems to hold tension.

Thanks,
Chris

Which idler, timing belt or serpentine ? If it's on the timing belt, several of us have lost motors when that bearing fails, so prudence would suggest replacing it anyway.
If the front of the engine is dry, Robert never disturbs the cam seals - and he's changed more timing belts than most people change their socks.

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 05 Jul 2025, 07:53

If the front of the engine is dry, Robert never disturbs the cam seals - and he's changed more timing belts than most people change their socks.
[/quote]

The fact that one youtuber does something, doesn't mean that he does it right. If you dont value your time or willing to risk to do the job again-leave 26 year old seals in. For the price of couple dollars and not that much time(when everything is disassembled already) I would urge anyone to try to be proactive and minimize chance of issue tomorrow.

deaddirewolf · Post by **deaddirewolf** » 05 Jul 2025, 10:33

Vova585 wrote: ↑04 Jul 2025, 22:12 It sounds like you are quite advanced DIY. Respect to you for doing all the work. My guess is that your timing .arks are off. At this point I would suggest to get cam holder tool($45 on amazon) and do this job correctly. You can put crankshaft into tdc using marks without using special crankshaft holder tool. At the same time replace the idler roller and have piece of mind(water pump done, timing belt new, you are almost there). At the same time it is 1999 and 135k. Consider replacing cam, crank, oil pump seals while you are doing all this work. Least thing you want if your belt will be covered in oil in 1 week and you have to do this again. Cam and crank seals are best to be installed via spacial adaptors. Recently one of the members was giving 3d prints of them. Or buy from fcp they are around $40 each. You are saving at least $750 in labor, so can justify proper tools and maybe even some extra wrenches from Harbor Freight Icon series(totally happy with mine)

Thanks. Advanced enough DIY to mess stuff up...

Yeah, I believe you are correct. Upon closer inspection, I think the timing is off one. The question is, how to I get it realigned? I've been searching and I cannot find any good demo for fixing it once you screw it up. I've attached some pictures. Question on the crankshaft gear, which mark is the correct alignment? The red circle or the white circle? I thought it was white. I bet I got that wrong too...

"You can put crankshaft into tdc using marks without using special crankshaft holder tool."

How do I do this? Release tension, move the exhaust by hand back a notch? Advance crank by the 30mm nut?

Also, I knew I should have bought a cam lock but was becoming impatient to do the job. Well, looks like that hurry cost me. I was trying to find this IPD one this guy was using in the video but couldn't so I just went ahead. I'm always happy to purchase tools to do the job myself. Can I get thins thing timed easily enough until I can order and replace timing belt, tensioner and idler (and seals)? Or should I just let it sit until I do the complete job? I'm not sure the best way to proceed.

Here's a picture of the idler I'm suspicious of making noise. Something in this engine is noisy at idle.

thank you for your time and consideration.

deaddirewolf · Post by **deaddirewolf** » 05 Jul 2025, 10:37

foggydogg wrote: ↑04 Jul 2025, 22:41
deaddirewolf wrote: ↑04 Jul 2025, 15:30
Which idler, timing belt or serpentine ? If it's on the timing belt, several of us have lost motors when that bearing fails, so prudence would suggest replacing it anyway.
If the front of the engine is dry, Robert never disturbs the cam seals - and he's changed more timing belts than most people change their socks.

Timing belt idler. I replaced one leaking cam seal the first month I had the car. I've been watching a lot of Robert's videos. Yes, I will replace that idler. I put a picture of it above.

thanks man

Post by **Sveedy** » 05 Jul 2025, 11:09

As suggested, I'd get a cam lock tool before doing anything else. In fact I'm not sure you can do this job without it, since you have to load up the VVT hub while aligning its sprocket. Basically -

Rotate the crank by hand till it lines up with its mark ( red circle )
Belt off
Install cam locking tool
Turn the crank another 90* clockwise, then back counterclockwise to its mark
Slip the belt on everything except for the exhaust sprocket. Intake and crank should be lined up on their marks
Load the VVT hub by turning it all the way clockwise
While holding the hub all the way clockwise, align its sprocket with its mark and slip the belt on the sprocket

This can be a royal PITA. A second set of hands helps, if doing nothing else but holding the VVT hub in its clockwise position while you get the sprocket and belt on.

Post by **Sveedy** » 05 Jul 2025, 11:17

viewtopic.php?t=106534

This might help...

deaddirewolf · Post by **deaddirewolf** » 06 Jul 2025, 13:28

Thanks Sveedy.

Your instructions above are exactly what I needed to know to try and put this thing right. I already have a cam locking tool in the shopping cart with the other parts. I remember I did the front cam seal when I got the years back as it was leaking oil.

I read the post you started about the P0014 error as well as these two:

viewtopic.php?f=9&p=471055#p471055

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=23535

With thanks to you, Ozark Lee and cn90 (in those posts above), I got this thing fixed.

This what I did:
(I should have taken more pictures)

I hand cranked the crankshaft to the correct position (red circle indicated picture above) until it was in the aligned and the exhaust and intake cam marks were minus one tooth from TDC because that was the best I could do.
Released the tension.
Slipped the belt off the cams
adjusted them by hand one tooth and aligned with TDC marks.
Put the belt back on
Applied tension

cleared the error via OBD-II
Took it for a spin.
She ran like a champ.
No more P0014

Now all that actually accomplished was replacing the water pump. I'm ordering parts to do the rest of the timing belt service. So, I'll be monkeying with it in another week or so basically repeating the entire process. In the meantime, it runs great.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Post by **foggydogg** » 06 Jul 2025, 21:50

Just as a point of reference, the cams aren't timed at TDC; when the crankshaft hub is on its mark - just as sveedy pointed out - all of the pistons are below the top of the deck and well out of harms way. Both cams can be rotated at will and won't touch a thing.
Glad it's sorted.