newbie hi/props & another idle prob. '94 850 w/340,000mi

[Ozark Lee]

Lee, do I really need 1/4" swivels? 3/8" are easier to find...

There is one real turd bolt that a 1/4" swivel and an extension makes it easier. I think you can do it with a 3/8", it will take one or two extra cuss words.

Oh, and the plastic pipe is always the one that gets brittle and breaks.

...Lee

[Wagonizer]

Hi Gurus,

The parts are here for the job. Waiting for some swivel sockets, extensions and free time next week to get into it. Should be really really fun. A couple things:

How do I properly attach the crimp hose clamps?

Lee, It seemed like the fuel pump relay is being problematic after the re-cap. Then again it might not be the problem. I got a new one and am going to see if I still have any continued stalls with no dash lights or hard restarts.

best to you guys and thanks again for all the great info and support

Bradford

[HareBall]

The quick and dirty check is to stick a balloon on your dipstick tube, if it inflates the balloon you need to do the PCV service.

...Lee

Thanx Lee, I tried this and the balloon didn't even seem to try to inflate. Maybe someone had already done this before I bought the car.

[Wagonizer]

Hi List,
I just wanted to follow up on this and say a huge thanks to the community for all the info. This would have been impossible for me without your help. All went well and my wagon is now purring like a kitten. I did the manifold gasket, PCV system, radiator hoses and heater core in about 8 hours. I had a little bit of trouble getting the injectors back in and seated right. I couldn't find any silicon grease at parts stores near me so I finally used peanut oil as advised by my mechanic. Also, I think FCP Groton has their parts numbers reversed for the injector seals. I should have ordered both (upper and lower), I ended up pulling the injectors out of the rail and replacing the notched seals at the top which fcp is selling as the lower seal (or maybe I don't understand injector terminology). Lee, thanks so much for telling me to get 1/4" swivel sockets!! This would have been a nightmare without them and some long extensions. It didn't hurt having a U-joint also. The worst bolt for me was the far left lower manifold bolt under the thermostat. Its interesting that the manifold hangs from the lower bolts. For anyone doing this job:

-It will be very nice to have a large box wrench for the nut on the big copper fitting (brake vacuum?) that you'll need to remove next to the throttle body. I used a 7/8 because I didn't have large metric sizes.

-Make sure you get that far left lower bolt as far in as possible before putting the manifold back ion. You can see the bolt head if you shine a light in just to left of the manifold curve and right of the thermostat. If the bolt isn't in far enough you can't get anything in to tighten it but your fingers for a while (if you're lucky) and its a painful stretch getting them in there. Also a straight short extension and socket works better then then swivel on this bolt.

-Since you have to pull the lower bracket that the manifold sits on to get to the PCV box leave some play in the bolt when you put it back on that way you can easily line up and tighten the upper vertical bolt first (the one in back of the dipstick bracket bolt) and then tighten the bottom bracket bolt.

-If you haven't done your starter in a while, if finances permit this is a really convenient time to get at it. I wish I had done it but didn't have a new good starter or quick way of getting one. Oh well.

Finally. Lee. I can confirm that the green fuel pump relay I recapped still had intermittent problems. I replaced it with a new red one and no more stalls or intermittent problems starting. Maybe one of the capacitors I used was old or a dud or maybe the relays develop other issued not related to the caps.

Thats it. Hopefully some of this will help someone and thanks again

Bradford