PNP 9466012 Alignment: The How-to without using the alignment tool.

[LamboSE5]

Hey guys, (to skip to my questions, they are in blue)

I have diagnosed that my PNP switch needs cleaning/replacement, and I've read through various threads on how to do it. I ordered the alignment tool from my local dealer - they called me back today and said "it's no longer available"... which made me think immediately, "well I hope you guys have one...for when people need this job done..?"

Anyway, I was gonna wait for that tool. But I guess I can go at it now seeing as I can't get the tool. And another poster had suggested this site he found "spxvtc.com"... I don't think they even sell parts. Weird.

So here's my question, which I believe may have been asked but no answered (or I didn't understand the answer/missed it):

Is this procedure correct?

I put wheel blocks behind the wheels (should I put it in Neutral, or in Park before disconnecting the battery). disconnect the batter and remove it, along with any applicable fuses. Then I get to work removing things to get access to the PNP switch.
I mark/score the bolt(s) (which bolts? am I marking the tops of them to 'line them up' while re-tightening, or am I marking like their height - like how deep I re-tighten them? Also, am I marking the "centre nut" of the PNP switch as well, and in what manner?)
Then, once removed I disassemble the switch and clean.

When I put it back together - this is where I'm not sure - since I don't have the tool.
This is taken from the Bay13 repair: "More than likely you have move or clicked the transmission into different gears in the process of removing the various nuts and bolts, not to worry, once you have worked the new switch back down the shaft and into place, grab hold of the shaft with a healthy pair of vice grips and turn it all the way to the right, that would be "Park" now to the left two clicks, one click "R", tow clicks "N"."
For the part I highlighted in blue; I don't understand the "working the new switch back down the shaft part" - what shaft? Then using pliers, I turn the 'shaft' all the way to the right (I assume this means driver side?) and that is Park?
Now, to put it into Neutral is it 2 clicks to the left? And, to put it into Reverse is it 1 click to the left? did I confuse how many clicks left each position is (from the farthest point to the right)?

This is from MIJ:
"If you're doing the alignment alone, put a mirror behind the car such that you can see the reverse lights go on and off from where you're working. Put the car in reverse (car on, engine not running) and turn the large metal part of the PNP switch forward and backward until you can get the reverse lights to go on and off in both directions. Mark the location with a pencil where it goes on, then rotate more until the reverse lights go out, mark with a pencil. Now move the sensor so that it is between your two marks (reverse lights should be on) and tighten down. The adjustment is done. Turn the key off, put the gear selector back in PARK and button it up."

Newb question; I guess the battery/any fuses are hooked back up before this paragraph? - how will the reverse lights go on and off when I'm trying to rotate the switch, or turn the car on (position II, correct?)..? And - Is everything tightened back down at this point? When should/can I reconnect the battery..
Put the car in Reverse? - how did it not roll away on ya while your at the engine, did ya block the wheels?
When rotating the large metal part/arm(?) in either direction, left and right of the 'middle', are you saying that the reverse lights will go first ON and then OFF in the "range" of either direction left or right of the 'middle'? Then mark both of the locations, left and right of the 'middle' (guess) where the lights came ON only? Not where they go off? Then move the arm to the 'middle of those marks - where the reverse light should be illuminated - and tighten down. What do I tighten down last, the nut to the left, or the right of the switch arm? Or the center nut on the PNP switch?

Sorry for any repetition. I just can't afford to mess up, I'm learning, and I'm worried about doing any damage. Mostly by having it in the wrong gear while taking it apart, or before re-assembly,..or while trying to 'find the middle' with the arm at the end.

One other thing I wondered. If there is a shaft you "turn" that clicks and that is what changes the gear positions, what does it change - just Park, Neutral, and Reverse? And if so, what does that moving arm do then..it must do more then tell the reverse lights when to come on.

Thanks for any help guys!

[polskamafia mjl]

I don't think you looked at my write up, and personally, I think it covers a lot more than the bay13 one did so here is the link to mine -> https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=29930

I think it will answer almost all of your questions, if not just ask away.

However the one thing that I don't know is how MIJ's method works. In theory it is great but I don't think it is actually possible to do what he says and I have not heard of or from anybody who used his method.

Like I said, take a look at my write up and see if it helps you out any.

[LamboSE5]

I'll check it out and let you know polkamafia,

Thanks!

[polskamafia mjl]

lol polkamafia...now that would have been a great screen name.

[LamboSE5]

Could've swore I put the 's' in there polskamafia, sorry. Hah.

I did see and read that (your) write up on the PCV job you did - FANTASTIC. Forgot I had it bookmarked and everything. Man, I really appreciate the time and effort anybody puts into helping out other on sites like these. I hope I can contribute some when I'm less of a newb.

Still have a couple minor questions but I'll post'em later when I have time!
Day!

[LamboSE5]

So I'm just going over your thread again.

I'm not sure about this:

32.JPG

Early in the first page of writeup it says to remove that center bolt first, and shows the two others to the left and right still in place. But then the last part of removal (before cleaning) second last picture before the cleaning part you say to remove the "center nut" again. Then you go on to say - the last two bolts to be removed are the ones left and right of the PNP switch..?
Is there a bolt on top of - and underneath that "wiring harness"? What did I confuse?

Second thing is this:

13.JPG

Do you simply mean mark where these two specific bolts go so you don't forget? Doubt it..I do not want to have to adjust the shift cable. And I wouldn't have the first clue about it. So, could you maybe explain what you mean and how you'd mark them? I mean, is it for how tight they are. . . or what/how?

Thanks for any help,
I appreciate your time

Cheers

[polskamafia mjl]

Ok, the order of removal for the bolts directly on the PNP switch goes like this:
1st: 13mm nut that attaches shift cable to PNP switch
2nd: 13mm nut that holds the bracket and wiring harness down
3rd: Center nut that is loosely bolted down; use channel locks for this since I think it is like a 24mm nut
4th: 17mm nut on the left that requires a deep socket
5th: 17mm bolt on the right side of the PNP switch

I used the same picture a couple times and just changed what bolt/nut I circled.

For marking the bolts, go back to my write up and look at the pic below the one you posted here. It will a better job explaining than I can. You are just marking their position relative to the bracket that they hold down.

Anymore questions, don't hesitate to ask.

- Marcin

[wcorleyiii]

The posts here on the PNP switch were a godsend! I got the dreaded yellow flashing arrow, and transmission power drop while whipping through a toll booth on the NJ Turnpike. Egad~!!!! Having never seen or heard of that warning before, I rolled to a stop in the toll takers parking lot, read the manual ("gear box failure" - whuh?), and did a restart. It stayed in the 3d gear limp home mode. Worried that I was killing the tranny, I got off the turnpike right away and parked. Checking this board and others, I learned about the PNP switch, and the temp solution of "rowing" the gear shift rapidly. That rowing trick worked, and I got the car home.

The cited web site with the step by step instructions was very helpful. But, I ran into anomolies. I bought the genuine Volvo part from IPD (thanks for the discount!) but it did not match the part I took off the car. The old part has a much larger arc radius, and is pressed together with pins, not screwed together. It looked old enough to be original equipment, but hard to tell if it was just a factory alternate part thrown in during assembly, versus a really cheap aftermarket part. I don't know the car's repair history for its first 116,000 miles.

The new part has a larger harness connector, which bumps against a rise in the tranny housing. However, by slightly re-routing a wire harness, I was just able to get the new part to fit.

I could not find the Volvo alignment tool, but I made one in five minutes flat out of spare parts as follows: I had a ten pack of 8/32" x 1/2" flathead screws and bolts in my tool box. I also had a pair of spare of three inch long triangular cabinet hinges (they look like old fashioned barn hinges that have a long triangular leg ) that came predrilled with screw holes. I bolted the long triangular sides of the hinges together as follows: bolt + hinge + two nuts + other hinge + final nut. I did this at the two holes that were farthest apart on the long axis of the hinge, in order to leave a space to fit down over the PNP switch selector shaft. The two nuts in the middle of the hinges gave the perfect 6mm spacing for the assembly to fit down over the selector shaft, and the assembly makes a three inch long leg that hangs out over the alignment mark on the PNP housing. The hinges acted as the flat metal plates to align with the flat sides of the selector shaft.

As I peered down the long space between the hinges, I looked at the thin bright line scratched down the middle of the black stripe painted on the switch housing, and centered the pair of sandwiched nuts right over that line. The bright line on the housing ran from the post right through the middle of the two pairs of nuts that are side by side with each other, one pair at each end of the assembly, giving two points to define the line, and confirm the alignment. I tightened the PNP switch bolts, put everything back together, and the car runs like a champ. The feel of the shifter is noticeably crisper than before. The flashing yellow light is out, and the tranny shifts perfectly.

Thanks again for the very helpful posts!

wcorleyiii

1998 XC70 AWD (gone to the great beyond)
2001 XC70 AWD (gave to Mom)
2000 XC70 AWD SE (120,000 miles)

[LamboSE5]

Hey guys,

So, I've got started on this job and I'm right at the step where I should be taking out the PNP switch. ALL the bolts that need to be out are out...quite sure, and the electrical parts have been disconnected. But the thing just won't come out, it will however rotate freely around the "center' (ie: where the large center nut requiring channel locks is). I've gave it firm tug but it doesn't seem to want to come out.. and I don't wanna damage anything.

Should I:
a) PB Blaster it and try again.
b) haul up on it as hard as I can, after a PB Blast
c) Use a pry bar?

Feel free to make a suggestion other than those - hah.
I'll post a pic of where I'm at as well.

Thanks guys!

PNP stuck here 2.JPG

PNP stuck here 3.JPG

[polskamafia mjl]

Hmmm...that is interesting. I don't remember having that problem. Can you tell what it seems to be getting hung up on?

Edit: I think you have to get it to slide off of that center bolt/post. When you pull the PNP out, there is just a hole there...