S80 Front Wheel Bearing and Driveshaft Replacement 1999 -
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S80 Front Wheel Hub and Axle Change
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MadeInJapan
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Re: S80 Front Wheel Bearing and Driveshaft Replacement 1999 -
I agree with all of your statements...but someone who has done hundreds of these can probably do them in their sleep and "know" when things are tightened correctly. The only thing I would have done differently (if I had done hundreds myself) would have been to use the locktite.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
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vegasjetskier
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I used what I had in my toolbox. I think it was red (which is not really "permanent," it will come loose if you apply enough torque).dcarlson12 wrote:Did you use Red loctite (so called permanent) or the blue (removeable)?
And I used a torque wrench on the bolts. There is absolutely no way to know what the torque is if an impact wrench is used. Also, you are much more likely to spin the bolt head off if you use an impact wrench. God help you if that happens - I hope you have stock in the Easy-Out company.
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SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
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SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
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dcarlson12
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Just wanted to follow up and point out that it is not necessary to remove the spidle assembly from the vehicle to replace the hub/bearing.
I followed the VADIS method which included removeal of the brake caliper assembly i.e. just hang the caliper up out of the way like when renewing brake pads. Then remove the steering stop and fixed portion of the disc brake caliper assembly then remove the screw attaching the drive shaft to the hub. Then use a brass drift to knock the drive shaft 10 to 20 mm into the hub. At this point the four bolts holding the hub/bearng to the spindle are accessible and are removed. The hub/bearing is then removed. The only hard part was breaking the four bolts loose. Had to use a combination of 3/8 drive socket (17mm), 3/8 universal, 3/8 to 1/2 drive adapter and 1/2 ratchet with a short piece of pipe to give extra leverage. My 1/2 impact wrench did not have enough umpf to break them loose. Used #277 Loctite to lock all the bolts on assembly. Think if I were to do again, I would use the blue Loctite. Hope if this bearing ever goes again that the red isn't too strong. Would prefer to not use heat to remove the bolts because the anti lock break sensor is in the area and wouldn't want to damage it.
I followed the VADIS method which included removeal of the brake caliper assembly i.e. just hang the caliper up out of the way like when renewing brake pads. Then remove the steering stop and fixed portion of the disc brake caliper assembly then remove the screw attaching the drive shaft to the hub. Then use a brass drift to knock the drive shaft 10 to 20 mm into the hub. At this point the four bolts holding the hub/bearng to the spindle are accessible and are removed. The hub/bearing is then removed. The only hard part was breaking the four bolts loose. Had to use a combination of 3/8 drive socket (17mm), 3/8 universal, 3/8 to 1/2 drive adapter and 1/2 ratchet with a short piece of pipe to give extra leverage. My 1/2 impact wrench did not have enough umpf to break them loose. Used #277 Loctite to lock all the bolts on assembly. Think if I were to do again, I would use the blue Loctite. Hope if this bearing ever goes again that the red isn't too strong. Would prefer to not use heat to remove the bolts because the anti lock break sensor is in the area and wouldn't want to damage it.
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blademan63
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I am ordering the parts now to perform a hub replacement and I was wondering why the seal wasn't replaced.
Is this simply a seal that sees very little wear and tear?
Is this simply a seal that sees very little wear and tear?
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MadeInJapan
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Welcome to MVS.
Some people replace the seal routinely.
Some people replace them only if they are weeping or leaking.
The thought on the later is not to disturb something that's not broken. My thought is to have it handy, just in case...if it's not leaking after pulling the shaft, then leave it alone.
Some people replace the seal routinely.
Some people replace them only if they are weeping or leaking.
The thought on the later is not to disturb something that's not broken. My thought is to have it handy, just in case...if it's not leaking after pulling the shaft, then leave it alone.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
vegasjetskier wrote:
Here's a pic of the new driveshaft (top) next to the old driveshaft. I got this from http://www.europartsdirect.com/ for $70 shipped. I know, it's made in China, but it's brand new and I didn't have to mess with a core charge and shipping a core back. A CV boot kit was $35. I figured for the $35 difference I would have all new parts and wouldn't have to do the work of installing the boots, so I went with the complete new driveshaft:
.
So, it's been about 10 months on the chinese driveshaft from http://www.europartsdirect.com ...how's it holding up so far; and how miles does it have on it?
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vegasjetskier
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The shaft is fine. It's got 9 or 10K miles on it, I would estimate.So, it's been about 10 months on the chinese driveshaft from http://www.europartsdirect.com ...how's it holding up so far; and how miles does it have on it?
.
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
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vegasjetskier
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Could be. Try rotating the tires front to back and see if that makes any difference.Billfro wrote:My S80 also has a sound like tire noise. Seems to be getting louder. It is a 2002 with 110K miles. Is probably a bearing problem also?
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SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
Hi,
Am new to this site so hello everyone.
Signed up for some info regarding a front hub change on my S60 ( same at the S80 I,m told)
Directions above seem pretty good except 1 thing dcarlson12 commented on about knocking the drive shaft into the hub.
dcarlson12 ,
Reading VADIS am not clear on the ref to 'tapping in' the drive shaft 10 to 20mm. Will this not damage the CV joints or something else........ What happens when you refit?
Any advice appriciated
Thanks
Mitch
Am new to this site so hello everyone.
Signed up for some info regarding a front hub change on my S60 ( same at the S80 I,m told)
Directions above seem pretty good except 1 thing dcarlson12 commented on about knocking the drive shaft into the hub.
dcarlson12 ,
Reading VADIS am not clear on the ref to 'tapping in' the drive shaft 10 to 20mm. Will this not damage the CV joints or something else........ What happens when you refit?
Any advice appriciated
Thanks
Mitch
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