Timing belt weekend: '99 S70 non-turbo. Part 2.

[Matty Moo]

You guys are doing it all wrong. You're making it way harder than it needs to be and adding complexity to something that doesn't need it.

I've done 3 of these in the past 6 months. I have not used any special locking tools, rope, pegs or anything else. There is also no need at all to remove the crankshaft pulley. If you can't get past the peg under the pulley, think about what you are doing and take a different approach.

In reality, the longest part of the job is swapping out the water pump. Making sure the pulleys are spot on takes all of 5 minutes at that. I'm not a mechanic and I tend to drink and smoke when I'm working, which makes it more slow going. I usually have at least 3 kids there wanting to help, which of course doesn't help at all.

Even on the first one, it only took me a minute or two to get the belt past the peg under the pulley.

From start to finish, all pulleys, water pump, t-stat, ECT sensor, serp belt, and a complete flush and fill is under five hours taking your time, drinking beer and double checking everything. With all the info on the net and a Haynes manual, it's not a complex job at all.

If you want help, come over and I'll guide you the whole way.

[Brucebo]

You guys are doing it all wrong. You're making it way harder than it needs to be and adding complexity to something that doesn't need it.

I've done 3 of these in the past 6 months. I have not used any special locking tools, rope, pegs or anything else. There is also no need at all to remove the crankshaft pulley. If you can't get past the peg under the pulley, think about what you are doing and take a different approach.

Yeah, the "different approach" is to remove the crankshaft pulley. I don't know if you read "Timing Belt Weekend, Part 1" here: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=20812
but the basic issue I have is a hard gas line right at the bottom of the pulley which was absolutely rigid and immovable, even after removing one of the line brackes on the middle right. See here: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... &mode=view
I could not even get my fingers in enough to manipulate the belt over the roller peg. I must have spent 90 minutes trying though. Actually, with the proper impact wrench, removing the crankshaft pulley was pretty easy. As easy as removing a tire.

-Bruce

[vegasjetskier]

Well I guess you could cut it off, as Ozark Lee (I think) does. But then the question is, will you be able to get the new one ON past the gas line?

[Pauloil]

putting the new belt on is easier than taking off old one because it is stiffer. the gas line is not a problem, but the post above it is harder to get by.

I just did this and have things to say about the mark for crank, and tightening the tensioner.

the mark on the block is left of true North. I saw it best using SHADOWED LED light from one of the small LED lights. the mark on the inside of the HB(serpetine pulley) marks the valley to line up with the mark on the block.( I noted there were several marks on the inside of HB, so orientation is not important when you take HB off and put it back on.)

hold the eccentric on the tensioner while tightening the center bolt
I agree with marking the HB with a rough mark on the outside, and wished we would've counted teeth between cam marks at the start! I had to do it twice as the intake cam was was off a tooth the first time

[theWIFES_S70]

Matty Moo, I'm gonna believe you on this. I'm going to do the timing belt without taking off that crankshaft pulley... Fingers crossed!

[oragex]

hold the eccentric on the tensioner while tightening the center bolt

Good tip (if a bit hard because space is tight). I did tighten a bit the center bolt, then adjust the eccentric to set the tension. then fully (it's not that much I think 15ft-lb) torque the center bolt. this way the eccentric won't loose the setting when fully tightening the center bolt. always check the tensioner needle after running the engine a few seconds, so it stays at center

hardest part is not to touch the camshaft pulleys so as to keep the timing marks in place as they were on the old belt. the exhaust pulley has a spring and will move a bit when the belt is off, but will get back in place once the new belt is on. new belt always over the intake pulley first, then over the exhaust one next.

[Brucebo]

Another way to get the crank nut off. I discovered this by accident, and I don't recommend trying this at home. Put a socket and breaker bar on the crank nut. Have the end of the breaker bar resting on the ground at roughly "4 o'clock". Get in the car and crank the starter. Bang! The nut came right off!

[erikv11]

The easiest (best) way to deal with the crank nut on a timing belt job is to leave it alone. On these P80 cars I've done many timing belt jobs, a few head swaps, a few engine swaps, and I have never loosened a single crank nut. There is just no reason to take off the crank pulley if you're in there for a timing belt.

[RussB]

There is just no reason to take off the crank pulley
if you're in there for a timing belt.

Truer words have never been spoken

[polskamafia mjl]

+1 Don't take the pulley off. That's insane.