S60 2002 Trunk Latch - Info on Fixing

[coflynn]

Glad it could help! As an additional note on this thread my kludged together fix is still working in my car almost five years later...

[Lab lover]

Thank you for all the help! I used a little of all your posts, I removed the latch from the lid and was preparing to tap it with a hammer before I went the next step and as soon as I unplugged the electrical connection to the plunger it RELEASED! I put it back together and it all works fine.
2006 S60

[bradleydeyoung]

1st Thanks to all. Not working so $ tight. Got the latch out. There are three things that connect to the latch.
1) Wiring harness easily removed
2) Emergency release cable that doesn't need to be removed
3) Heres where I am stuck Plastic cable / housing attaches to latch and goes into lid - I can't figure out how to disconnect this and I need to so I can take latch assembly to work bench and remove rivets. How do I get this disconnected?
ALTHOUGH I STILL NEED TO KNOW #3 after I disconnected the harness and found I couldn't get the "#3" done I tapped the metal housing with a hammer and the piston pushed out and started working, put it back together and its good, THANK YOU ALL> I just want to know how to get that "#3" cable disconnected so if I have to take the other steps I can.

[oragex]

Just found this repair DIY and I thought I'd put my opinion on this. I would strongly suggest not trying this repair, and getting instead a new or a used latch. The reason is the two rivets that have to be drilled or cut off and removed, keep the locking hook in place. These are rivets with a bushing - thicker in the middle and are made of strong metal. You will have to replace them with the exact same type and also have a press to secure them: only a specialized shop can do this. If these rivets are not replaced properly, the hook may become stuck and you will never be able to open the trunk again even with the key. These rivets must be drilled on both sides, not just from one side. It's really a messy job.

[mrbrian200]

Mine was full of white lithium grease that had gotten hard and preventing the mechanism from working properly in cold weather. Cleaned out the old grease, put a better synthetic+PTFE (superlube 21030) and not a spec of trouble with it since. I didn't take the rivets out. I think I used either carb or brake parts cleaner in an aerosol can to dissolve/blast it out, then re greased it by just sort of packing it in. The range for this grease is 500F dropping point to -45F low temperature viscosity limit. I doubt I'll ever have trouble with it again.

[rjS60Turbo]

Does any of this work with LATCH NOT FIRING OPEN? I hear the relay click, but no latch pop.

[cn90]

The 2006 S60 with 100K miles has the classic issue:
- Cannot open by remote key fob.
- Cannot open by squeezing the rubber thingy in the trunk.
- Fuse #6 checked and is OK.
- Can ONLY open by inserting the key in the trunk lock.

- The Actuator is with emergency release type Volvo 31253052.

Does anyone have the pinout for the wiring running from the rear fusebox to the trunk and troubleshooting guide?
I wonder if the wires running to the trunk lid are broken?

[cn90]

Turned out for 2005-2009 the REM is different than previous years. So it is NOT fuse #6 for my 2006 S60.

Still looking for circuit diagram feeding the trunk actuator.
BTW the license lighting (bulbs are good) is off too.

[cn90]

The good news is:

- At certain trunk lid positions, the key fob can activate the actuator. So it is likely the wiring loom. Tested with Ohmmeter, one or 2 wires showed intermittent break.

- The PN is on the wiring loom itself, about $55.

- The one thing I don't understand: even at the specific trunk lid positions that the key fob can activate the actuator, the Rubber Pad in the trunk lid does not work, so the Rubber Pad may be bad?