Timing Belt Issue... Any idea how much damage?

[Ozark Lee]

The consequences of not keeping the lifters ordered are somewhat diminished if you are replacing the head. As they wear they get distinctive wear marks and they are best returned to their original position. Do go ahead and soak them in oil though.

Before you try to replace the head you will need to line the timing mark on the crankshaft back to the mark on the block.

If you don't have one I would highly suggest that you pick up an Haynes 850 manual. Haynes does a good job of describing how to make the cam lockdown tools that you will need to get things back in the correct position.

As far as other stuff goes now is a dandy time to replace the PCV system since it is all right there.

Here is another recent thread that might be of help to you.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=26864

...Lee

[vegasjetskier]

Volvo%20006.jpg (96.76 KiB) Viewed 1562 times

[JDS60R]

I think you have the B5202FS motor which had hydraulic lifters in 98.
Is that the right motor?

[firstvolvoS70]

So here goes. I've gotten all the parts and pieces ordered to replace the cylinder head and the PCV system. Groton is the bomb and Clearwater Cylinder Heads is not too shabby either. The Groton order arrives today and the cylinder head tomorrow. I am ready for any and all hints, tips and suggestions that anyone might have. The link provided by Ozark above is very helpful but if there is anything else anyone wants to throw my way I would appreciate it. Head bolt torque specs and sequence? Special tools?

[Ozark Lee]

You will need to fabricate the cam hold down tools that are pictured on page 3 of the thread that I linked to - the Haynes Manual describes them with decent detail.

Hopefully you got the anaerobic gasket sealer which you will need for the top of the cam tower. Set your crankshaft back to the timing marks on the sprocket.

Here is the VADIS procedure.

Head Change.pdf

(1.04 MiB) Downloaded 1443 times

...Lee

[renns]

Tracey,

Thanks for sharing the details of this repair, including the good pics. This is a great resource for others.

I had a tbelt idler bearing fail last summer, and thought I might be going down a similar road. Fortunately in my case the belt stayed tight enough to not go more than a couple teeth out of time.

Roger.

[firstvolvoS70]

Thanks OL. Just to clarify the head bolt specs... Tighten all the bolts in sequence to 20 nm which converts to 14.75 lb/ft. Retighten all the bolts again in sequence to 60 nm(44.25 lb/ft). And then, in sequence, turn them all 130 degrees more.

[Ozark Lee]

Thanks OL. Just to clarify the head bolt specs... Tighten all the bolts in sequence to 20 nm which converts to 14.75 lb/ft. Retighten all the bolts again in sequence to 60 nm(44.25 lb/ft). And then, in sequence, turn them all 130 degrees more.

Exactly.

...Lee

[firstvolvoS70]

It's almost back together. I hand turned the crankshaft three full revolutions and everything stayed lined up perfectly. That mechanical timing belt tensioner is a #$%#&%^! This morning I will install the cam position sensor, the distributor cap, plugs, wires coolant reservoir and everything else to get it back to 100%. I'm drawing a blank on a couple of things. On the top of the head there are several bolt holes that I have nothing for. Can you look at the picture and let me know what might be missing? I found a plastic tube about the diameter of a coffee stirrer laying loose in the engine compartment. I also have two extra hoses from the PCV kit that I didn't use. I assume this is a generic kit that applies to more models than mine.

Extra's in the PCV kit

Volvo 012.jpg (29.4 KiB) Viewed 965 times

Plastic tube that is my only "extra"

Volvo 011.jpg (24.47 KiB) Viewed 965 times

[firstvolvoS70]

Today was the day. All assembled, new plugs, checked the oil, added a half quart or so, added coolant, checked the timing marks, checked the timing marks, and checked the timing marks again. Turned the engine several revolutions and checked the timing marks yet again. She fired up rather easily and briskly I might add. After some very brief white smoke, the fluids began to burn off the engine. So far so good... The only problem is a very noticeable ticking coming from the cams and lifter area. I took a peak through the oil filler cap and notice plenty of oil circulating. I hope that someone tells me this ticking is expected until the parts all get happy and accustomed to being together. After several stops and starts of the engine it never got better or worse. I probably haven't ran it more than 2 - 3 minutes total. Thoughts?