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Rear main seal.

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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vanman250

Post by vanman250 »

I thought I had the same problem but found the the oil pump was leaking. I guess you can replace this or at least see it when changing the timing belt. They installed a new seal and it's been fine ever since. I guess the oil would blow to the back and appeared that the rear seal was leaking.

vanman250

TuHandy
Posts: 46
Joined: 4 December 2004
Year and Model:
Location: Tri Cities, Washington

Post by TuHandy »

I did clean up all the oil and then had my wife run the car at a high rpm while it was off the ground. I saw oil leaking (running) out of the end of the motor where the trans bolts up. It was actually comeing out of a area where the flywheel is visible (under the turbo). Anyways I knew for sure it was coming from somewhere in the back of the engine behind the flywheel.

So Needless so say, I pulled the engine and trans. this weekend. The engine is on the stand right now waiting to be torn apart. I have decided to completly rebuild it since a couple of cylinders were a little low. Cylinders 1 thru 3 were 175 psi, #4 was 115 and #5 was 125 psi. The car ran great but I figured I may as well do it now. I should have the new engine bearings and rings, ect this week. Also the power steering rack was leaking so its very easy to get to now without the motor and trans in my way (may as well replace that to).

Will keep you posted
97 Volvo 850 T-5

200,000 miles and still going strong

TuHandy
Posts: 46
Joined: 4 December 2004
Year and Model:
Location: Tri Cities, Washington

Post by TuHandy »

sorry, forgot to mention miles.

I have 148,000 miles on car. I have only had it a short time. I think it had approx. 115,000 on it when I bought it. I dont know how it was drivin before I got it, but I usually dont baby it around town. Its to much fun to kick the turbo in and get on it.
97 Volvo 850 T-5

200,000 miles and still going strong

UncleBoost
Posts: 79
Joined: 11 December 2004
Year and Model: 855 R, 1996
Location: Jamestown, NC

Post by UncleBoost »

94 855t

Rear Main replaced @ 208k miles back in July (now 230k miles)

Always had OIL on my back window after a 100 mile drive. Was getting old.
Paid $1600 to have the rear main replaced along with a new Timing Belt, Serpintine Belt, Oil change etc. Drove car home from shop, 100 miles, guess what...Still had oil on the back window OOOOOOO was I furious!
Turned out to be the O-Ring on the turbo oil return drain pipe. The shop wanted $45 to replace it, I declined since it looked like even a retarted Monkey could change that. Now the REAL question is.....Did I need a rear Main Oil seal in the 1st place since i was still getting the same amount of oil on the back window as i was before the Main seal was replaced?
Living and Learning Volvo. I could write a book!

Ady

Post by Ady »

I just did mine last week. Hell of a job. Came across too many rusty seized nuts and bolts which reallly made the job tough. I took the engine out to do mine (rented a hoist from a hire shop), was a little bit more work but made it easier to work on. Gearbox weighs a ton, took two of us to get it back on and then one to hold it while the other got a bolt started to hold it on.

I was told when ordering the seal it is a common fault on the 850. I used to work as a mechanic many years ago so am pretty clued up on this type of job but I will say this to somone considering taking a repair like this on. Be prepared for the things that can go wrong cause they will stretch the job out timewise, an example for me was :- The two bolts holding the exhaust manifold to the downpipe ( just before the exhaust goes under yhe car ), both were rusted and the bolts have no head on them, there is a square lug that holds the bolt in place to stop it turning when undoing the nut. these were just spinning round, I tried many approaches with no luck and eventually had to hacksaw the off which was really hard due to limitied working area.

All I can say is plan it out carefully be prepared to have no vehicle for a few days if things go badly and make sure you have time to concentrate on doing the job and getting out of the way.

good luck,

Ady.

Guest

Post by Guest »

Tips to all: the easiest way to do a rear main seal on this engine is to remove the subframe and trans from underneath the car. One other thing that is important, replace the bolts that hold the flexplate or flywheel on brcause oil will leak from there when you are done and you'll think you did something wrong.

TuHandy
Posts: 46
Joined: 4 December 2004
Year and Model:
Location: Tri Cities, Washington

Post by TuHandy »

New rebuilt engine back in the car and runs great sooooooo far, just completed a couple hours ago. No leaks ....

I will let you know if a few weeks how it turned out.

Removing the motor and trans is the only way I would do it. Droping the front subframe and removing the trans alone doesn't look fun. Dont get me wrong removing the engine and trans wasn't the funnest either. But I got it done.
97 Volvo 850 T-5

200,000 miles and still going strong

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