OK. This test may not be good enough to keep a balloon up in SantaFe this Fall. But it certainly raises hand to make my to-dos in 30 days. Or should it be earlier, immediate? Will there be Gremlins in waiting as I take on the PCV job?jblackburn wrote:Same basic test. Pull out the oil stick, look for smoke, or put a balloon over the opening. If you see smoke, or the balloon inflates, the system needs to be cleaned. Let us know the results, and I'll dig up the non-turbo write-up, I think it's on my work computer or hidden in my bookmarks somewhere :)
PCV job V70 and S70 non-turbo
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
PCV Job for V70 and S70 Non-turbo
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xHeart
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Re: PCV check V70 non-turbo, and '97 850
Last edited by xHeart on 26 Aug 2012, 11:08, edited 1 time in total.
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Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240
Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240
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xHeart
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Your photos are from 2008 cn90, almost 4 years. How is the PCV job holding, any suggestion related to better choice of replacement parts ?cn90 wrote:My suggestion if you have more than 100K miles, just do it, don't waste time testing it.
As always, TIA.
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Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240
Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240
'must be a happy Volvo...Giving you the 'High Five'!
Just take some digital pictures layer by layer. Its all pretty straight forward. I used all genuine parts when I did mine ($125.00??I can't recall). Removing the intake really is a snap, but have a 1/4" drive "wobble" socket (for that last bolt on the right) and extension. Examine each and every other part that comes into view as you 'excavate', particularly all the little tubes (I got three different sized rolls of fuel rated line at O'Reillys), get a few more spring clamps (try to avoid worm gear clamps on these small hoses). The only part I had any trouble with is the hose that crosses around the front of the engine next to the distributor. If you route it wrong, its a tad too short, when routed correctly its barely long enough.
Don't pinch the hose that passes through the intake and up then under the plug cover...I pinched mine against the "lug" cast into the head...and it caused a screeching sound on start-up...like letting the air out of balloon while holding the outlet stretched. My mechanic said if it had been allowed to continue like that I would have probably blown a cam seal.
Mine took about 5 hours, but I was quite casual in my pace, and had a neighbor doing most of the wrenching as I gave step-by-steps, based on this excellent forum (he was anxious to do it). Save every part that still seems serviceable. Do not mess with your Knock Sensors.
Just take some digital pictures layer by layer. Its all pretty straight forward. I used all genuine parts when I did mine ($125.00??I can't recall). Removing the intake really is a snap, but have a 1/4" drive "wobble" socket (for that last bolt on the right) and extension. Examine each and every other part that comes into view as you 'excavate', particularly all the little tubes (I got three different sized rolls of fuel rated line at O'Reillys), get a few more spring clamps (try to avoid worm gear clamps on these small hoses). The only part I had any trouble with is the hose that crosses around the front of the engine next to the distributor. If you route it wrong, its a tad too short, when routed correctly its barely long enough.
Don't pinch the hose that passes through the intake and up then under the plug cover...I pinched mine against the "lug" cast into the head...and it caused a screeching sound on start-up...like letting the air out of balloon while holding the outlet stretched. My mechanic said if it had been allowed to continue like that I would have probably blown a cam seal.
Mine took about 5 hours, but I was quite casual in my pace, and had a neighbor doing most of the wrenching as I gave step-by-steps, based on this excellent forum (he was anxious to do it). Save every part that still seems serviceable. Do not mess with your Knock Sensors.
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jblackburn
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Sure you've seen this, but here's the link to the job and all the comments after everyone else has done it:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28487
Yeah, put that on your list for 30 days or as soon as you can get to it.
Having the proper sockets for this job makes it much, much easier! I mentioned several you'll want to have in my write-up, namely the wobble socket as mentioned above, and the 12mm ratcheting closed-end wrench.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28487
Yeah, put that on your list for 30 days or as soon as you can get to it.
Having the proper sockets for this job makes it much, much easier! I mentioned several you'll want to have in my write-up, namely the wobble socket as mentioned above, and the 12mm ratcheting closed-end wrench.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
- rspi
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Contact:
Contact rspi..
The lower intake manifold bolts don't have to be removed, just loosened. The 2 bolts that hold the bracket on the bottom of the intake manifold can be removed from up top if you are a little flexiable. Also, the bolt that holds the oil dip stick tube. Try not to drop and loose an intake manifold bolt. The first time I did the job it took almost 7 hours because I had to run to the store twice to get tools. A good pair of long curved needle nose pliers and those funny clamp crimpers will be good to have on hand. Also, there is a fuel line that is very short and will likely not come loose will need to be replaced. Make sure you get FUEL INJECTOR rated hose to replace that small hose.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
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xHeart
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I am feeling comfortable with taking it on. Few questions...
Would oil change be a good first step after PCV job?
Do I drain before starting to take things off?
What parts in the kit must be oem/oes?
What make of part to avoid?
Which hoses must have fixed size crimp clamps?
Would oil change be a good first step after PCV job?
Do I drain before starting to take things off?
What parts in the kit must be oem/oes?
What make of part to avoid?
Which hoses must have fixed size crimp clamps?
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Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240
Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240
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