1999 XC70 Drivers door won't open from inside or outside
Re: 1999 XC70 Drivers door won't open from inside or outside
I think I know what cable you are talking about. I noticed that there was a pin that holds the two metal plates(one for outside latch, one for inside latch) together. This pin was visible on the passenger door, but was missing on the drivers side. If I yank on that will it still release the latch, or do I need to "physically motivate" another part to move? Is this going to be something that I am going to have to pull or push really hard, or should this be a fairly delicate movement? I just don't want to break anything else during this wonderful process!
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jblackburn
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- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
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With all luck, yes. That pin should be there, that actually sounds like it may be the problem. Don't tug on it so hard that the plastic breaks, but if you can get a grip on it, it should pop open like normal.If I yank on that will it still release the latch, or do I need to "physically motivate" another part to move?
The cables are a common problem, and a cheap design, so check those out too - mine was frayed and coming loose from the door handle, so I attacked it with a stapler and gorilla glue and it's held on for another 2 years.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
The driver's door on my 2000 V70 XC would not open from inside or outside. Upon investigating I found that the latch mechanism failure is quite common. A pin on the metal paw in the mechanism breaks and jams the lock from opening. As described by others the seat must be moved down and back to get enough room to remove the inner door liner. Removing the liner one piece is somewhat difficult but can be done after popping it loose and working it toward the rear. Access to the lock mechanism is now possible. One write up describes inserting a wire with a half inch bend on the end in an attempt to lift the broken metal paw jamming the lock. I found this procedure to be very frustrating and time consuming with little chance of success. A fast, direct approach to lifting the broken metal paw is using a Craftsman 1/4 inch, 8 inch long wood chisel and a hammer. Using the chisel a hole, about an inch square, in the plastic behind the latch mechanism and paw can be broken out. Once this is done you can use the chisel or a screwdriver to insert into the mechanism to manipulate the pieces and the door will instantly pop open. This can all be done from inside the car. The attached picture shows the inch square hole toward the top of the mechanism. The small piece to the right shows the broken paw with the missing circular pin toward the top that shears off. A mechanics mirror is also handy in locating where the hole needs to be broken out. Used door locks can be purchased on Ebay for about $50. Installation of the door handle requires removing the lock cylinder with it's rod and not inserting it until after the door handle has been mounted. The lock cylinder can be released by inserting a small rod or nail under a tiny loop in a small hole just behind the two, door handle, mounting screws. Prying the tiny loop outward will release the lock cylinder. The lock cylinder rod must be inserted into the "properly positioned" nylon receptacle to complete the installation.
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