Changed timing belt, now won't start

[JDS60R]

Ok - time for a leak down.

Do you have an air compressor?
I am still assuming the valve timing has been confirmed with all three marks (crank and 2 cams) correct?

[creepingdeath94]

I am thinking that is what happened. I think the timing belt is off a few teeth. He said he turned the motor over by hand a few times before starting it, so unless he really jammed on past every hard spot, I don't think he bent the valves. And if the car ran before the timing belt, and the valves are not bent, it should just be a matter of redoing the timing belt and re aligning it. Before I ran out and got another motor, I would first try and re do the timing belt procedure to make sure it is properly aligned. Then, if no go, I would pull the head and see if the valves are in fact bent...it is only time, and not that much of it, to pull a head and verify the valves are bent before spending more money and time on a new motor or car. Just my two cents.

[JDS60R]

Many are wondering about your valve timing. Can you let us know. Your first post states you corrected it.

It is worth checking as it can give similar symptoms if the valve opens while compressing.

I also agree that if the timing is right just pull the head- it not too hard and you can change/have changed anything thats out of whack. With the valves freshened up and a new head gasket you will like the performance.

No need to even think of a new engine at this stage. With a little time you could get out of this for free (cam timing issue) or at worst a few hundred bucks and about 10 hours of your time.

Hang in there. Every great mechanic has screwed something up. Just fix it and don't do it again.

[JDS60R]

Just so we are on the same page for where the marks are supposed to be.

[phils94850]

It really sounds like you have it out of time. I would go back and re-do the timing marks and try again. Even if you bent a valve or two i serouisly doubt your gonna have low compression on all cyl's..

[JDS60R]

If the starter is used on a whiteblock with the valves out of time it usually bends all of the valves on one side -they look like this.

But right now we wait for the OP to give us info on

1. Are the timing marks right?

[Ozark Lee]

We had a member a couple of years ago that had his crank pulley slip due to a loose bolt and a sheared keeper. He timed things properly, per the marks, and the car ran like crap. It was an ongoing problem until he reset the crankshaft and then re-timed the engine.

...Lee

[JDS60R]

We are all hoping the best for the OP.

[Timberwolf530]

Well you guys have given me new hope. I'm done with it though. I'm going to take it up to my mechanic and have him look at it. I am going to check TDC on cyl one though, just to verify that the crank sproket is in the proper position. To answer Lee's question, I tore it back down after I posted, and all 3 timing marks are correct. I will update as this progresses, and Thank You for your help. Oh, and I checked the sharpie pulley mark that I made before I disassembled it, and it was 3 "valleys" to the rear of where the notch is.

Todd

[Timberwolf530]

Update: My mechanic says it's toast. I already went out and bought another car because he said it would probably be $1500 - $1800 to fix it. I have owned Subarus in the past, and liked them, so I got a 2003 Legacy Wagon (not an Outback, just regular Legacy) with only 46,000 mi on it. I got an incredibly good deal on that I couldn't pass up. Anyway, I think I'll just keep the 850 because it's been in my family since new in '94, so it's kind of like a member of the family. I'm going to see if I can fix it. It's not like I can make it not run any more than I already have. So, I guess I would need on advice on where to buy valves and procedures for replacement. Do I need to get the head worked on, or it that something I won't know until I get into it? Should I replace all of them or just the damaged ones? Should I go ahead and replace all the valve seals & springs? Any other input would be appreciated.