Alternator vs Regulator

SoDoWarts · Post by **SoDoWarts** » 30 Jun 2010, 11:51

Thanks man! BTW -- considering the issue I"m having with my battery/regulator/alternator and not being able to keep a charge -- have you ever heard that if your security alarm gets activated that it could screw things up and be a big draw on the battery? The reason I mention it, is that on the day this all started I had to break into my car (keys inside the trunk) the alarm went off a couple of times and by the time I got the keys and tried to start the car it didn't turn over, and thusly my first call to AAA for my first jump (as the story begins above). Just wondering if this could possibly be an answer to my charging problem. THanks again.

Post by **JRL** » 30 Jun 2010, 12:42

I bet I know what your problem is.
One of your locks is messed up and a light stays on all the time.
My project T5 was like this..
I replaced the battery yet 2 days later it died again.
Finally found one lock where the door jamb light was staying on!

Post by **jblackburn** » 30 Jun 2010, 12:45

^^^mine does the same thing. Check the glovebox light too.

Post by **JDS60R** » 30 Jun 2010, 12:55

I agree - any light left on will give you the same symptoms as what you are experiencing.

Please check the car and let us know.

SoDoWarts · Post by **SoDoWarts** » 30 Jun 2010, 13:10

It's going to be tough to check -- the car's sitting in my volvo guy's lot without a charge. He's waiting for me to tell him whether I want to spend $700 for an alternator or $330 for a regulator. The last time it was jumped it died about a minute later - so I had to have it towed.

Post by **JDS60R** » 30 Jun 2010, 13:33

You can ask him to put a charger on it . Or I'm sure he has a jump box there. Just clamp it on and get in the car . Wait for the lights to turn off and then check every thing.

If you want you can pay him to tell you what the parasitic draw is. He should have tested it already. It is done by disconecting the abttery cable and putting a meter inline. It will tell him the amp draw while the car is sitting (After the internal light go off). With the ECU having a powered memory expect a 50 to 100 milliamp draw. Let us know what you find.

SoDoWarts · Post by **SoDoWarts** » 01 Jul 2010, 10:34

Update -- last night under the cloak of darkness I went to the to see if I could find where the battery cable meets the fuse box (for any corrossion) but I must have been looking in the wrong place or box - couldn't see it. But I jumped it for about 5 minutes. It started fine, put on the lights, the radio and the Ac. Took it down the street and after about 300 years I felt a loss of power, the ABS and STC lights came on, then about 15 seconds later the ROPS (roll bar) and SRS lights came on (but not the generator/battery light). The car stayed running, the lights stayed on(dimmed) but there was no response from the accelerator! Wierd. Does this sound familiar to anyone.

Back to your comment JDS60R --knowing that he wants some big money from me he'll probably tell that he's already done that. What would be the best pointed and specific question I should ask him about what you suggested? I sorta want to put him spot to prove that for sure it is the alternator.

SoDoWarts · Post by **SoDoWarts** » 01 Jul 2010, 10:35

correction -- make that 300 "yards" not years!

Post by **cn90** » 01 Jul 2010, 11:01

Why don't you take the car home, remove alternator and rebuild it for $80 using the info I provided?

SoDoWarts · Post by **SoDoWarts** » 01 Jul 2010, 11:17

Believe me, I wish I could. But from what I can see that looks like its way beyond me. I have a very low greasey hands index and I'm void of the tips and tricks that are always good (and needed) to know.

Alternator vs Regulator

Re: Alternator vs Regulator