DIY: Flaring your Brake Lines Topic is solved

[steve850]

I know this is old, but Great chronicle! Just went through this myself, but had to cut the pipe back a few inches, so I bought a six inch piece of 3/16 euro-flare-ended pipe, cut one end off and flared a standard nut on it to make and extension, flared a std nut on the original pipe and put a union between them.

I would gladly have replaced the who pipe (driver's side, so only about 30 inches long) but the stealer want 78$ for it and the parts places only sell hard lines with the same connector at each end - and I can't find out what size the larger nut is on the ABS unit end.... If anybody should happen to know...?

[Ben850]

I actually have all the flare tools from doing lines on my '92 Olds.
If/when I break the rear connections to the calipers on my wagon, I will replace the lines.

It is good to know how to use, and work the flaring tool. Not fun, and I am so over it.

[cn90]

I am just wondering (yes, just wondering) if anyone has done this technique for seized connection.
Assuming heat from a propane torch fails to undo the seized connections...

1. Loosen the C-clip to allow the whole assembly to go upward.

2. Slide the whole assembly upward.

3. Use a dremel with cutting wheel (wear goggles!) and SLOWLY cut through the hose's metal end.
Go SLOW and constantly check to be sure one does not damage the nut threads.
Once you get down to about 1mm to go, use a chisel or screwdriver and split the connection.
In other words, think like a surgeon operating and cut slowly.

Does this idea sound good? This idea (if it works), would prevent you from flaring the line etc.

Volvobrakeline.JPG (59.02 KiB) Viewed 2812 times

[steve850]

You probably could, but even if you did manage to not touch the threads, the prying action would probably damage them

If you know ahead of time that you need to loosen, PBlaster it to death the day before and again before loosening

[abscate]

That would take a really good touch to Dremel without damaging the thread. The Dremel bit is circular so you have to control the depth of a few mm at the deepest circumference of the cut.

You might be able to measure the depth and mark the Dremel bit with a sharpie, but those bits usually wear as you cut and change the radius .....sounds tough.

Maybe practice on an old one from a junkyard?

[vjaneczko]

You can't loosen that c-clip, it's held in place by the pressure of the nut bolted into the hose, so you'd have to break it & replace it. Another challenge would be your idea of sliding the connection up (indicated by the red box & arrow in your pic). The hard line may not bend enough with the proper alignment, and (2) the nut may not lineup with the hole in the mounting bracket so it wouldn't slide very much. Another thought would be that whatever caused the two parts to become seized will probably not 'let go' easily, and with all the dremmeling you'd have to do, odds are pretty good you'd chew-up the threads of the nut, which you're trying to save.

[rmmagow]

I've been using this as replacement line:
https://www.amazon.com/SUR-Auto-Parts-SR ... SJEBJ0MJ9V
It is easy to bend and flare. I had all the brake lines replaced in my truck with this stuff and the lines are still clean and healthy looking after three years of salted New England roads.

[Baptiste1106]

Hey need some help. Just bought the double flaring kit and need help with the flaring process. I cut the line with the hacksaw already. I slipped the new nut on the line. Which hole does the line go thru, 3/16? Which flaring adapter do i use, 3/16? Then what ?

[vjaneczko]

Yes, go with the 3/16 setup. The line will go into the hole, which will feel slightly tight when in the tool. The tool should have some grooves in it to hold the line firmly so it won't slide out. There's a few videos on YouTube that you can watch, too.

I can't stress enough the need to practice on a spare hose before you get onto the car. It'll give you the confidence you need to repair the car AND drive it!

[deepsouth]

Great beginning quote. I did this a year ago (rented the flaring tool from Autozone) and am still traumatized by the experience. The flaring tool is a SERIOUS PITA. Perhaps with practice it becomes easier but I found it brutal...