Check Engine Light

Post by **jblackburn** » 04 Dec 2010, 22:04

That's why I suggested it might be a loose plug. Is there some crap in the cylinder hole keeping the plug from going down all the way? That sounds weird to me...and valves don't go on two cylinders at a time.

I would also check your oil to see if it looks like a milkshake...but I really hope that's not the case.

ksdst1 · Post by **ksdst1** » 13 Dec 2010, 07:00

Ok. My update is, I finally got tune-up parts over the weekend and replaced plugs, wires, d-cap and rotor and still have the same situation. Problem with cylinder 1 & 2 (misfire codes-sounds more like 2 with an air/compression sound), idling and running rough and of course the check engine light. So unless it has to do with ignition coil which I understand either works or doesn't and would rule that out, then i have a problem with the valves or those cylinders. Again, the old plugs had oil (or burned gas) around the threads with black charred electrode area and a bit too much white exhaust smoke.

Now I need to find info, web links, opinions, etc. that show how to determine if the problem is cylinder rings, or valve gaskets and then what is involved in a self repair or mechanic repair. I've read about compression and leak down tests. Ideas on how much they should cost at an independent for valve gasket work, cylinder ring work? Could it even be a bad head gasket if only two cylinders have the problem? Since i know these mis-firing cylinders are the problem and it would be a high level repair process, should i just initiate the repair w/ an independent mech? Any Ideas of how much valve work or cylinder ring work would cost?
Any input would be helpful.
tnx...kevin

Post by **jblackburn** » 13 Dec 2010, 07:08

Yeesh, well, find a good independent mechanic at any rate - don't take this car near a dealer. Run a compression test to be sure, but it sounds to me like those 2 cylinders are definitely dead. If there was lots of white exhaust smoke, that is usually an indicator of a failed head gasket, and valves don't usually fail on 2 cylinders at the same time. Has it been drinking coolant?

You've got two options if it is that. Replace the gasket and buy a remanufactured head (you'll want to go ahead and do the timing belt, etc at the same time), or source an entire replacement engine. The cost will probably run you near the same.

ksdst1 · Post by **ksdst1** » 13 Dec 2010, 09:13

GGrrrr...sounds bad. I'll have to buy a compression tool unless autozone type places lend them out. If the compression is bad on one then what exactly does that indicate? Bad cylinder rings? Also, if it is not the cylinders but valves then why would I have to get a re-manned head....can I just pull the top of and install the gasket and reattach?

There is no milkshaking effect of the oil and the coolant color and level are good. Infact, the oil smells more like gas than I generally would have expected. i don't know much about the injector system but i assumed it was not that b/c of the rythmic compression/hissing sound when the engine is firing. Doesn't that sort of sound indicate a more specific type of problem??
tnx

ksdst1 · Post by **ksdst1** » 02 Apr 2011, 17:35

I finally got back to my car as it has been garaged through the winter after a flashing check engine light, codes showing misfire on #1, #2 and today i did a compression test and #2 has no compression dry and 20 wet. Not good. [dry test_cyl1 140, cyl2 0, cyl3 145, cyl4 150, cyl5 150] I guess i need to have a leak down test (mechanic for this one). Consensus seems to be that if rings are bad the best option is another engine. And i think that if valves are bad the mechanic should hear air coming from either intake, coolant reservoir or tail pipe. Anyone know what these indications would mean in regard to options/repairs?
btw, I have and still do smell a bit of coolant in the cabin when the engine is running. Not sure if it is related but has to be in some way. Tnx in advance!

Post by **jblackburn** » 03 Apr 2011, 00:46

Your readings on all other cylinders appear to be OK, which means that #2 probably has a burnt exhaust valve. Rings hardly ever go bad.

Assuming you did this on a warmed up motor, your other compression readings aren't great for an N/A engine meaning it doesn't have the power it used to, but they're consistent at least. If it was done on a cold engine, the warm readings will be 20-30 psi higher and your rings/cylinders are still in excellent shape.

It is your choice whether you want to go with another engine or simply replace the head. In the end, labor costs will be about the same. You do know the history of your existing engine, when the oil was changed an all, so if you took good care of it and it's not over 200K miles, you may choose to keep it and replace the head.

ksdst1 · Post by **ksdst1** » 03 Apr 2011, 09:48

Tnx for the reply jblackburn. After getting my head together about this i need to provide more back info, and to be thorough I am going to post a new topic.

Check Engine Light

Re: Check Engine Light