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Removing Stuck Wheel On Rusted Rotor [1997 Volvo 850 GLT]

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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cn90
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Re: Removing Stuck Wheel On Rusted Rotor [1997 Volvo 850 GLT]

Post by cn90 »

OLD post, but I just came up with this idea.
I have NOT tried it yet but if anyone tries this, please post an update.

Instead of hammering the inner part of the wheel with wood + hammer combo, let's say you jack up the LR tire:

- Use a iron pipe or 2x4 wood long enough to wedge against the good side.
- In other words, jack up and remove the 5 lugs on LR side but leave RR side alone.
- Ask an assistant to hold the iron pipe or 2x4 wood, then use a scissor jack to jack the stuck wheel OUTWARD.
- The force of a scissor jack should be enough to dislodge a stuck wheel.

- Then add antiseize as mentioned.

Any thoughts?

Stuck-Tire-Trick.jpg
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xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

Following procedure has worked for me CN90.
- plan ahead and practice safety
- loosen each lug to 3 full rotation -- up to 3mm out is safe
- drive around the block at slow speed -- 10mph -- it is okay to go over few bumps. We have some really good street manhole covers for this job
- now jack up and undo it with a taste of chill Heineken

Next time load your favorite wheel bearing/hub assembly "lip" with copper anti-seize before installing the wheel back on.
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Ifs impact you want , not force. You can build up a lot of stored energy in that jack combo which can do a lot of damage underneath when it slips

The jack weighs a lot less than the wheel tire combo so when the wheel moves the energy will go into both
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