Removing Stuck Wheel On Rusted Rotor [1997 Volvo 850 GLT]

Post by **1997volvo850** » 02 Jul 2011, 14:39

This feels like a silly question but a search of the site for 'wheel' returned zero hits. Variations of this
search with stuck or frozen returned zilch. I expected to get a few hits on wheels stuck/froze on the rotor...

The passenger rear wheel didn't want to come off. After some PB/lube and kicking and wiggling the wheel finally came off.

The drivers side rear wheel won't come off after even more effort. I've lowered the car with lug nuts loose and
the wheel is still fixed to the rotor. I drove the car in my driveway, braking hard, and the wheel is still fused to the rotor.

Any help is appreciated.

I put anti-seize on the passenger rear rotor surface before remounting the wheel.

First time this has ever happened to me.

Thanks

zhenya · Post by **zhenya** » 02 Jul 2011, 15:02

Sledgehammer against the tire will sometimes do it, or a piece of wood to protect the wheel and a few well placed whacks the wheel itself. There is nothing other than the lug nuts to hold the wheel on, so it must come off eventually - here in NY we get more than our share of salt so things like this seem to happen.

Post by **bigdaddylee82** » 02 Jul 2011, 15:44

I recall talking with my dad sometime last fall, and him telling me both rear wheels on his S80 were "glued" on. He used a block of wood and sledge to get one off, and the other wouldn't budge at all. The one that wouldn't budge took a come-along and some ratchet straps hooked between the wheel and a tractor. He said he drug the car sideways several times before finally getting it to break free.

- Lee

Post by **jreed** » 02 Jul 2011, 18:32

I had this problem 4 years ago. I loosened the lug nuts in the driveway, left them loose and backed the rear wheels slowly off of the curb. Then I pulled back in, jacked the car up, and the wheels were broken free. I put a light film of wheel bearing grease on the contact areas and have not had a problem since then.

Post by **1997volvo850** » 03 Jul 2011, 08:04

The piece of wood and sledge hammer method worked after several whacks. I did loosen the lugs and try
to drive it with hard braking without any luck.

The rotor is now coated with anti-seize. Just have to get through all the task I haven't done once already
to get things to go smoothly next time. Anti-seize is your friend. I've spent so much time on stuck
bolts on this 14 year old car that my anti=seize is with my wrenches.

Thanks

Post by **JRL** » 03 Jul 2011, 08:51

Soak in PB Braster and......

Post by **vjaneczko** » 03 Jul 2011, 10:05

Just to make sure; you removed the 10 mm pin right? First time I went to work on the brakes I never knew about that thing...

If you did remove it, JRL's got the right idea. I'd add a little heat from a blow torch to it as well.

Post by **pkc303** » 03 Jul 2011, 15:34

We used a block of wood, and a hammer. I pounded from the back of the rotor. I thought I was going to warp the rotor with all the pounding. At one point, I didn't care about the rotor. I believe one guy cut his off with an angle grinder.

Keep whacking and think of all the poor souls who are in a gym PAYING to get exercise. Good luck.

gilhuly · Post by **gilhuly** » 04 Jul 2011, 11:02

They make giant plastic sledge hammers, but you probably don't have access to one. A garage would probably break this loose for you for 20 bucks. Otherwise, 2x4 buffering an 8lb sledge hammer is the ticket. Its a lot easier on a lift where you can get a good swing in. rotate the wheel every couple hits.

swede_speed · Post by **swede_speed** » 05 Jul 2011, 10:24

Sledge and wood blocking is all you need....a garage would do the same technique. Try pounding at the 6'oclock position for a few whacks then at the 12 o'clock position and back and forth and ....until it budges....works for me here in the Northeast after winter.