Tighten them to the torque specified and then something like another 60 degrees.
Or, just tighten them down about as tight as someone my size can get them. With the jack under the control arm as I mentioned - that should keep them from working their way loose again.
1998 s70 Turbo Noobie Needs Guidance on Steering Procedures Topic is solved
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
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- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
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Re: 1998 s70 Turbo Noobie Needs Guidance on Steering Procedu
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
Gentlemen,
Thanksgiving wishes to you all. Quick question, I wanted to double check. I purchased
Sachs Super Touring Struts the OEM replacement for 1998 s70 GLT. I'm assembling now, but I can't seem to get the strut rod to come out all the way even after priming several times. I just called FCP and got 2 different answers from 2 different guys (not complaining, the FCP fellows are great) I'm the noobie here but still wanted to find out if there's something amiss before I put this thing together and install.
The issue is that if I push the brand new strut rod all the way in, it stays there. Resistance is there, but no raising up on it's own. I watched few videos of this, and folks mentioned that they are shipped compressed and the strut rod needs to be turned to allow the strut rod to raise up, followed by priming them by pushing down a few times. If you have any experience on this please let me know asap. I was told to pump them a few times by the first tech guy and told that they do not stay out on their own but require the spring after assembly by the second tech guy they transferred me to. No better solution than to ask folks who have experience with it. Please advise soon as possible, and thanks much.
Again the strut rod or piston does not stay up when pulled out all the way, and when pushed all the way in (compressed) it stays in. The old struts I just removed (with 124K miles) do the same thing. Either my new ones are not up to spec or my old ones are not at fault. In either case I think renewal of the strut as long as I'm doing the tie rods and control arms was the right move. Just odd that the previous owner told me to attend to the front struts as soon as possible.
Thanksgiving wishes to you all. Quick question, I wanted to double check. I purchased
Sachs Super Touring Struts the OEM replacement for 1998 s70 GLT. I'm assembling now, but I can't seem to get the strut rod to come out all the way even after priming several times. I just called FCP and got 2 different answers from 2 different guys (not complaining, the FCP fellows are great) I'm the noobie here but still wanted to find out if there's something amiss before I put this thing together and install.
The issue is that if I push the brand new strut rod all the way in, it stays there. Resistance is there, but no raising up on it's own. I watched few videos of this, and folks mentioned that they are shipped compressed and the strut rod needs to be turned to allow the strut rod to raise up, followed by priming them by pushing down a few times. If you have any experience on this please let me know asap. I was told to pump them a few times by the first tech guy and told that they do not stay out on their own but require the spring after assembly by the second tech guy they transferred me to. No better solution than to ask folks who have experience with it. Please advise soon as possible, and thanks much.
Again the strut rod or piston does not stay up when pulled out all the way, and when pushed all the way in (compressed) it stays in. The old struts I just removed (with 124K miles) do the same thing. Either my new ones are not up to spec or my old ones are not at fault. In either case I think renewal of the strut as long as I'm doing the tie rods and control arms was the right move. Just odd that the previous owner told me to attend to the front struts as soon as possible.
'98 S70 GLT 150K - Blue Swede, Totalled-Lifesaver, Thanks To MVS repaired-daily driver
'98 S70 N/A 296K- Paid It Forward
'98 S70 N/A 296K- Paid It Forward
I just wanted to follow up and close this thread, sorry for the long delay in doing so. The above doubts were cleared up and just to be thorough. The Sachs Super Touring referenced above (OEM on the 98 S70 GLT) are not to be primed because they are not in fact gas struts which need to be primed prior to installing for best results. A mechanic from FCP was able to get back to me (within 90 minutes, cheers guys) with this information.
I'm very grateful to you all for sharing your expertise and invaluable insight. As if owning a Volvo wasn't good enough, this forum and those that make it possible are an absolute Godsend.
I'm very grateful to you all for sharing your expertise and invaluable insight. As if owning a Volvo wasn't good enough, this forum and those that make it possible are an absolute Godsend.
'98 S70 GLT 150K - Blue Swede, Totalled-Lifesaver, Thanks To MVS repaired-daily driver
'98 S70 N/A 296K- Paid It Forward
'98 S70 N/A 296K- Paid It Forward
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JRL
- Posts: 9350
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You have left out the low battery issue
Do a complete load test and a battery test
It's about that time to replace the B+ harness cable and the positive battery cable, (they do go bad)
Do a complete load test and a battery test
It's about that time to replace the B+ harness cable and the positive battery cable, (they do go bad)
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
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