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PNP replace or clean?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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precopster
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Re: PNP replace or clean?

Post by precopster »

I took my wife's PNP out in her 850 tonight, well except for splitting the wiring connector at the large connector (something I would have to do if I were to replace it) so I'll dismantle it tomorrow night and clean it.

I couldn't see a way past removing the alignment pins in the connector so I could split it and fit the new one I bought.

I was able to measure that pin 1 & 2 are the contacts for the reverse position so I'm going to use this as my calibration point.
Does this sound like good reasoning? I've marked the body where the bolts attach it to the gearbox so hopefully it's just PLUG and PRAY :lol:
Attachments
2012-01-10 18.04.17 (Large).jpg
2012-01-10 18.04.17 (Large).jpg (164.15 KiB) Viewed 3479 times
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

precopster
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Post by precopster »

So I couldn't ever find a way to split the factory connector from the PNP portion of the connector so I could fit the new Scantech one I bought. I tried pulling with pliers until I turned blue in the face then my hand slipped and wacked itself into something :oops:

What I DID manage to do is CLEAN the old PNP switch very carefully, retension the springs in the sweeping arm by stretching them a little and file the three small copper contacts flat again. I used Carby cleaner & my toothbrush to clean the baked on hardened grease from the large sweeping copper contacts.

I think the pics below spell the story out.

BTW I took apart the Scantech PNP I had purchased for this job just to see how it works prior to doing all this & I can say it's an exact copy of the factory switch right down to the brass arm shim, the copper contacts, the casing, the connector & numbering and the rubber seal around the casing. It wouldn't surprise me at all if Scantech are buying them from the same company that provides them to Volvo.

After the clean the car started and the reversing lights came on first time. It also starts in neutral every time, which was a problem before. Have to test drive it later.

EDIT: After finally finding the excellent PNP write-up on this site (https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=29930) I found the error of my ways. I should have released the connector apart by prying on the small blue tab at the end of the connector. I did the PNP clean in the engine bay which I wouldn't recommend if you hadn't previously had one apart before....too many small parts can drop in the engine bay.
Attachments
Contacts were filed flat & springs retensioned
Contacts were filed flat & springs retensioned
2012-01-12 19.23.11 (Large).jpg (124.62 KiB) Viewed 3433 times
After cleaning & VapoRubbing
After cleaning & VapoRubbing
2012-01-12 19.22.54 (Large).jpg (163.39 KiB) Viewed 3433 times
The PNP before cleaning
The PNP before cleaning
2012-01-12 18.41.08 (Large).jpg (190.56 KiB) Viewed 3433 times
My PNP will never feel congested Ah TISSUE!!
My PNP will never feel congested Ah TISSUE!!
2012-01-12 20.39.39 (Large).jpg (95.37 KiB) Viewed 3433 times
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design

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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

Hey that is really useful info about the Scantech switch - I am so suspect of everything they sell, it is worth noting when a particular item they sell appears to be good quality.

So why the Vick's, is it just what you had around that is petroleum-based?
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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rspi
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Post by rspi »

I would say replace or rebuild the switch. If you clean it, I'd use some fine sand paper to make sure it's clean. Just an akward job to redo in 3 months.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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NewToVolvo850s
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Year and Model: 1995 850 Turbo,GLT
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Post by NewToVolvo850s »

Well today it finally went out. When its in drive it revs up for like 3 seconds and then the wheels catch and it spins tires. It also does it in reverse. My local shop said they'll replace it for $90(parts, tax labor)
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo 270HP
1995 Volvo 850 GLT 185HP
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jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

-No reverse lights
-Cant go over half throttle
-Shifts weird
-Dash lights shut off when I go into drive
Did it fix any of these issues?

The revving up and then smashing into gear is a line pressure problem, however - not the switch.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

NewToVolvo850s
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Post by NewToVolvo850s »

Oh ok, and I havent had it replaced yet in 2 hours I am taking it into the shop. $90 seems really, really cheap though to replace it.

Jow could I fix the line pressure issue?
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo 270HP
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jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

Either there's really, really, really nasty brown and burnt fluid in there, or that transmission is in its death throes.

Your issues at the beginning of the topic are a separate issue (likely the PNP switch as everyone suggested), but the 2nd symptoms aren't good.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

NewToVolvo850s
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Post by NewToVolvo850s »

how can i fix the fluid? thats what i think it is, the problem started this morning.
1995 Volvo 850 Turbo 270HP
1995 Volvo 850 GLT 185HP
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jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

A transmission flush (specify that they absolutely need to keep it AWAY from a flush machine.)

The best thing to do would be to dump the contents of the transmission pan through the plug to get out any settled crud, and then flush another 9 qts or so through the radiator cooler hoses.

You can show them this if they're not used to working on Volvos:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... php?t=8767

Take out the transmission dipstick (it's yellow and kinda hidden by the battery) and wipe it on a paper towel. If the fluid is not a bright, clear red, the flush is worth a shot.

Mine looked like this when I first got the car:
Image
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

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