Alarm triggering

Post by **regent** » 14 Mar 2012, 08:53

fazool wrote:Thanks. No DIM message and all inputs semm to be working so it sounds like I'm down to siren module shorting or internal battery.

That's right; if for whatever reason (low voltage, poor contact, etc.) the siren that is part of the comm network should drop off-line, the UEM 'panics' immediately because it 'thinks' that there is a breach, and thus triggers the alarm system.

The DIM message (if present) will stay for a minute or two and then time out (keying down/keying up will clear it sooner.)

Post by **fazool** » 14 Mar 2012, 08:59

Gonna head to a local pick-n-pull Saturday maybe. They have a couple cars with the same module (but also the same age). I'll ter into one of those to get familiar , then replace the battery in the salvaged one and then tear into replacing mine.

Post by **regent** » 14 Mar 2012, 09:10

You have probably read that the module is held by an M6 secure fastener; there is no much room for a hacksaw, so be prepared with a cordless drill and a 3/32" bit to work it into the bolt's head at an angle, and then you use the bit's shaft in the hole you just drilled to undo the screw

Post by **fazool** » 14 Mar 2012, 10:10

Good point.

Harbor Freight has a set of security bits on sale for $9.99 this week. I was missing one when I did my duaghter's MAF so I should prbably just get the security bit.

Post by **regent** » 14 Mar 2012, 15:37

It is a directional type tamper-proof screw (not very common) like these:
http://tamperproof.com/categories/one-way-slotted.html

I just replaced mine with a 10 mm hex head.

Post by **fazool** » 14 Mar 2012, 16:33

hmmm

I thought the one I saw in a picture had the Torx with center post type

Post by **regent** » 14 Mar 2012, 18:25

Mine was the directional type, and I have seen it on other P2s, but it is possible that the Swedes may use more than one kind. Can't put money on that...

Post by **fazool** » 18 Mar 2012, 13:33

(sorry no pics - only words)

I removed the siren module. My security screw was a weird style - it had a round head and a post that they screwed it in with, then broke off. I could easily grab it with long nose vise grips.

Opening the module was tricky since its glued shut.

My problem appeared to be a common one - battery corrosion destroyed the battery wires. Getting the battery out of its holder is a pain too - its glued in plastic and has to be broken out.

I cut open the battery wrapper, brass brushed everything, cleaned it with electrical cleaner and trimmed and re-soldered the battery wires. Then I rewrapped the battery stack in a lot of electrical tape to create the new tube wrapper. To reinstall it, I drilled two holes and cable/zip tied the battery assy to the inside of the case. Then I sealed those holes with GOBS of hot glue inside and out.

To reclose the unit I sealed it with GOBS of hot glue then wrapped the seam with electrical tape.

I reinstalled everything and replaced the security screw with an M6 phillips stainless machine screw.

The only thing I don’t have is the large rivets so I put anchors in temporarily until I get to the store (I saw the ones I need at the Home Depot).

Pretty easy project – took about an hour.

Post by **regent** » 18 Mar 2012, 14:00

Nice job!
Did you have to reset the UEM code(s) or is everything working fine now?

When I opened mine up, the battery had leaked a lot of electrolyte which had eaten up most of the traces and the transformer on the PCB so I opted for a new siren.
Thanks for sharing

Post by **fazool** » 18 Mar 2012, 14:14

No I just plugged it in.