jreed wrote:Thanks for the feedback and good tips!
I hope it starts up and runs smoothly with no leaks.
Engine oil cooler line replacement DIY guide
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Engine oil cooler line replacement DIY
-
theador
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 28 February 2014
- Year and Model: Volvo 855 T5 1994
- Location: Henley on Thames
Re: Engine oil cooler line replacement DIY guide
Thanks. Seems to be running smooth, sadly there is a very small leak coming from the lower brass nut on the radiator that the oil cooler line attaches to, I didn't notice it until I had cleaned off all the old oil. I imagine I can't tighten that nut?
- jreed
- Posts: 1619
- Joined: 8 March 2009
- Year and Model: '97 Volvo 855 GLT
- Location: RTP, North Carolina
- Has thanked: 352 times
- Been thanked: 192 times
Interesting. Some thoughts: Is the oil line pushed in all the way? Could the o-ring on the new line be damaged? Does the o-ring on the old line match the one on the new line? Are the radiator and lines OEM?
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
-
theador
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 28 February 2014
- Year and Model: Volvo 855 T5 1994
- Location: Henley on Thames
Radiator lines are OEM. The leak looks as if it's coming from the radiator side rather than the line side of the brass nut. I will double check the line is pushed all the way in however. I'm also thinking that the fluid coming out is a bit of an oil/coolant mix. I remember my volvo specialist saying something about the oil being contaminated when he had it last now.
- jreed
- Posts: 1619
- Joined: 8 March 2009
- Year and Model: '97 Volvo 855 GLT
- Location: RTP, North Carolina
- Has thanked: 352 times
- Been thanked: 192 times
The leak on the radiator side could be spelling bad luck -- you may need a new radiator. I had to replace mine a couple years ago due to a crack near the upper inlet. It is a fairly large job but there is better clearance and access than the oil cooler line replacement job.
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
- jreed
- Posts: 1619
- Joined: 8 March 2009
- Year and Model: '97 Volvo 855 GLT
- Location: RTP, North Carolina
- Has thanked: 352 times
- Been thanked: 192 times
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
-
mecheng
- Posts: 1271
- Joined: 27 March 2014
- Year and Model: 1998 Volvo S70 T5
- Location: Ontario, Canada
- Has thanked: 15 times
- Been thanked: 21 times
Excellent write up. I rebuilt my lines using 1/2" oil/trans cooler hose zero leaks from the line itself but it is leaking at the o-ring of the thermostat because I couldn't get the o-ring seated properly. Did you guys insert the o-ring into the thermostat or did you insert it on the oil cooler line? I placed it onto the oil cooler line, but it wouldn't seat properly despite tightening the bracket and yes I did flip the bracket.
Let me know please.
Here are some tips to ensure you keep the routing the same, trace the existing hose outline on your driveway using some chalk (steal some from your kids). Use double hose clamps, preferably the good quality ones from Sweden that the dealer gets. I prefer them over Oetiker because you won't have access to tighten those once they are installed. Screwdriver tight is not enough I found, use a ratchet to tighten them, the hose is otherwise a bit loose on the line.
Let me know please.
Here are some tips to ensure you keep the routing the same, trace the existing hose outline on your driveway using some chalk (steal some from your kids). Use double hose clamps, preferably the good quality ones from Sweden that the dealer gets. I prefer them over Oetiker because you won't have access to tighten those once they are installed. Screwdriver tight is not enough I found, use a ratchet to tighten them, the hose is otherwise a bit loose on the line.
1998 Volvo S70 T5 - SE - 240km - Sold July 2018
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
-
theador
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 28 February 2014
- Year and Model: Volvo 855 T5 1994
- Location: Henley on Thames
This was a relatively straight forward, but lengthy job I thought. I would say nearly half the time was spent trying to get that damn screw back in that holds the pipes to the main block. I think that alone took me nearly 2 hours of trying. Mostly because my hands were covered in oil as was everything else by that point. My tip would be when you get to the bit of screwing this screw back in, you take 15 minutes to give all your tools a really good degrease. Degrease as much around the area as possible, and go put on a fresh set of latex gloves before tackling. I found it much easier once I'd cleaned my hands and got rid of grease and oil.
-
cn90
- Posts: 8255
- Joined: 31 March 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 468 times
Did you gently bend the bracket before installing it? This should stop the leak.mecheng wrote:...but it wouldn't seat properly despite tightening the bracket and yes I did flip the bracket...
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post






