This morning I tried to start the car and I hear clicking - this is the starter solenoid - this seems
to sway the choice between the PNP or starter as the problem towards the starter.
So I've been investigating how to test the starter. A Google search returns hits primarily dealing with
replacing the starter on the 850. There is a video that covers testing an 850 starter here -
I connect my volt meter to the large positive terminal on the starter and the reading (after a little
scratching) is equal to the battery voltage.
Next I connect my volt meter to the green lead that gets power from the ignition. When I attempt to start
the car the voltage raises to battery voltage though no signs of life from starter.
I believe this rules out the PNP as the cause of the current non-start problem even though I do not
have reverse lights and will eventually need to clean the PNP at some point. Given what I've
read cleaning the PNP itself should not be too bad though somewhat of a pain getting everything
out to get to it.
The starter replacement video I've been looking at removes the fan to make room to get at the
starter. Are there better alternatives? Then Haynes manual does not indicate to remove fan - are
they working from under the car? The Haynes replacement instructions are extremely short.
I see several used OEM starters on ebay that will fit my 1997 850 LP Turbo for around $50. Any reason
not to try one of these? Local parts store wants $140 for new TuffOne starter. OEM Bosch is $170.
Will begin work to get old starter out...
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - Won't Turn Over
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1997volvo850
- Posts: 359
- Joined: 18 February 2010
- Year and Model: 1997 Volvo 850
- Location: New York
- Been thanked: 1 time
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1997volvo850
- Posts: 359
- Joined: 18 February 2010
- Year and Model: 1997 Volvo 850
- Location: New York
- Been thanked: 1 time
The video I found on replacing the starter indicates to remove just the fan (not the shroud). Getting to the
bottom bolts of the fan from above seems next to impossible. Have others followed this method?
My vehicle doesn't start and is not in a good position for jacking.
I'm beginning to wonder if removing the fan and shroud together is going to be easier. The only thing
in the way appears to be a wiring harness zip tied to the fan shroud. The Haynes manual indicates to
remove fan and shroud as a unit.
Any help is appreciated.
bottom bolts of the fan from above seems next to impossible. Have others followed this method?
My vehicle doesn't start and is not in a good position for jacking.
I'm beginning to wonder if removing the fan and shroud together is going to be easier. The only thing
in the way appears to be a wiring harness zip tied to the fan shroud. The Haynes manual indicates to
remove fan and shroud as a unit.
Any help is appreciated.
- rspi
- Posts: 7303
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- Year and Model: 850 T-5R Wagon
- Location: Cincinnati OH
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Contact:
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As much as I dislike doing it, I would try to jump the starter before replacing it. Most people take a metal wrench or something, turn the ignition on, then touch something metal from the starter solenoid wire to the big red starter wire.
I replaced my starter only to learn that my positive battery cable connector was corroded between the wires even though they looked clean. I took ALL of the wires apart from the cable end, cleaned them up with a wire brush (had to scrape some of the corrosion off), then put it back together. Haven't had a problem since, 6 months now.
Part of my issue was that I had to hold the key for a couple of seconds sometimes before the car would crank.
I replaced my starter only to learn that my positive battery cable connector was corroded between the wires even though they looked clean. I took ALL of the wires apart from the cable end, cleaned them up with a wire brush (had to scrape some of the corrosion off), then put it back together. Haven't had a problem since, 6 months now.
Part of my issue was that I had to hold the key for a couple of seconds sometimes before the car would crank.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
- rspi
- Posts: 7303
- Joined: 5 November 2011
- Year and Model: 850 T-5R Wagon
- Location: Cincinnati OH
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Contact:
Contact rspi..
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
-
1997volvo850
- Posts: 359
- Joined: 18 February 2010
- Year and Model: 1997 Volvo 850
- Location: New York
- Been thanked: 1 time
Robert,
I'm following your videos - I've confirmed battery voltage at the large power connection on
the starter.
I've also confirmed the voltage on the green lead to the solenoid goes to battery voltage when
I turn the key.
So with voltage on both connectors I get nothing...
While I'm surprised my starter stopped without warning when I look at it all rusted and corroded
from our northern weather I guess it makes sense.
Now I'm trying to figure out which starter to get. Looks like they used this starter through 2006
in the s60 but they change the part numbers so I'm not sure on some of the used parts I'm looking at.
I'd like to get the most recent copy of this starter that's out there and this looks like the 2006 s60.
Any help on equivalent part numbers is welcome. I've seen part #s 8111302, 8251551, 17508, 21600
and the Bosch part # as SR0483X (but most used parts don't list the Bosch #)
Thanks
I'm following your videos - I've confirmed battery voltage at the large power connection on
the starter.
I've also confirmed the voltage on the green lead to the solenoid goes to battery voltage when
I turn the key.
So with voltage on both connectors I get nothing...
While I'm surprised my starter stopped without warning when I look at it all rusted and corroded
from our northern weather I guess it makes sense.
Now I'm trying to figure out which starter to get. Looks like they used this starter through 2006
in the s60 but they change the part numbers so I'm not sure on some of the used parts I'm looking at.
I'd like to get the most recent copy of this starter that's out there and this looks like the 2006 s60.
Any help on equivalent part numbers is welcome. I've seen part #s 8111302, 8251551, 17508, 21600
and the Bosch part # as SR0483X (but most used parts don't list the Bosch #)
Thanks
- rspi
- Posts: 7303
- Joined: 5 November 2011
- Year and Model: 850 T-5R Wagon
- Location: Cincinnati OH
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Contact:
Contact rspi..
If not buying a new part I usually troll the salvage yard and pull the newest looking one. 
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
-
1997volvo850
- Posts: 359
- Joined: 18 February 2010
- Year and Model: 1997 Volvo 850
- Location: New York
- Been thanked: 1 time
Robert,
Thanks. Given how much work it is just to get to the starter I'm not ready to spend this much
time pulling the part when there are used ones on ebay for $40-$50. What do the pick-and-pulls
charge for a starter? I've checked before and there are very few Volvos at the local pick-and-pulls
around here. I would do this if I were planning to harvest a bunch of parts like fan, radiator, IAC,
etc...and I'm currently looking at a donor car...
There's no way I can squeeze under my car to get at the fan bolts so I'll try to raise her up
a little. The lower bolts just need to be loosened according to your video. The two bolts on the
drivers side of the starter worry me a little - looks mighty cramped around these. I just hope I
"do no harm" as I'm moving so much stuff out of the way to get to the starter.
Thanks,
David
Thanks. Given how much work it is just to get to the starter I'm not ready to spend this much
time pulling the part when there are used ones on ebay for $40-$50. What do the pick-and-pulls
charge for a starter? I've checked before and there are very few Volvos at the local pick-and-pulls
around here. I would do this if I were planning to harvest a bunch of parts like fan, radiator, IAC,
etc...and I'm currently looking at a donor car...
There's no way I can squeeze under my car to get at the fan bolts so I'll try to raise her up
a little. The lower bolts just need to be loosened according to your video. The two bolts on the
drivers side of the starter worry me a little - looks mighty cramped around these. I just hope I
"do no harm" as I'm moving so much stuff out of the way to get to the starter.
Thanks,
David
-
1997volvo850
- Posts: 359
- Joined: 18 February 2010
- Year and Model: 1997 Volvo 850
- Location: New York
- Been thanked: 1 time
My used starter arrived and I decided to continue following Roberts video.
Next step is to remove the two lower fan bolts an pull the fan. I jacked the car and slide under
the car - I can see the passenger side bolt - but there is a large (intercooler?) hose blocking
access to the lower bolt on the drivers side. Sorry but removing only the fan will take me forever
given I can't even see the bolt - and replacing it will take me as long.
I replaced the radiator on my other car and I recall the fan sliding in an out easily. I removed
the wiring harness off of the fan shroud and pulled the fan. Pulling the fan and shroud together
is clearly the easier option for my GLT with a LP Turbo. Okay. The fan/shroud is out.
I see the bolt holding the starter in on the passenger side.
For the two bolts on the driver's side there are coolant and inter-cooler and a bunch of other lines
in the way. There is zero space near the heads of the starter bolts.
I really need some help here. I'll try to get a photo to clearly show my dilemma.
Next step is to remove the two lower fan bolts an pull the fan. I jacked the car and slide under
the car - I can see the passenger side bolt - but there is a large (intercooler?) hose blocking
access to the lower bolt on the drivers side. Sorry but removing only the fan will take me forever
given I can't even see the bolt - and replacing it will take me as long.
I replaced the radiator on my other car and I recall the fan sliding in an out easily. I removed
the wiring harness off of the fan shroud and pulled the fan. Pulling the fan and shroud together
is clearly the easier option for my GLT with a LP Turbo. Okay. The fan/shroud is out.
I see the bolt holding the starter in on the passenger side.
For the two bolts on the driver's side there are coolant and inter-cooler and a bunch of other lines
in the way. There is zero space near the heads of the starter bolts.
I really need some help here. I'll try to get a photo to clearly show my dilemma.
- jreed
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I know what you mean about poor access. I replaced the starter motor on my '97 855 GLT a couple weekends ago and there were some tight times working on the two bolts on the driver's side of the starter motor. I used a skinny ratchet and a wrench on those bolts, as shown below:
The front bolt requires you (at least, it seemed required to me at the time) to loosen the wiring harness clamp so you can squeeze the harness far enough away from the bolt head to get a wrench on it and back it out. It's tough, but it can be done. Here is a picture of a socket being used to remove the bolt holding the wiring harness clamp: Regarding the starter motor itself, I had good luck sourcing a used one from Southern Vo-Vo. It's been working great! I took a photo of the model ID (0 001 108 167) on the old original Bosch starter motor: Good luck!
The front bolt requires you (at least, it seemed required to me at the time) to loosen the wiring harness clamp so you can squeeze the harness far enough away from the bolt head to get a wrench on it and back it out. It's tough, but it can be done. Here is a picture of a socket being used to remove the bolt holding the wiring harness clamp: Regarding the starter motor itself, I had good luck sourcing a used one from Southern Vo-Vo. It's been working great! I took a photo of the model ID (0 001 108 167) on the old original Bosch starter motor: Good luck!
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
- rspi
- Posts: 7303
- Joined: 5 November 2011
- Year and Model: 850 T-5R Wagon
- Location: Cincinnati OH
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Contact:
Contact rspi..
I think I used a box end to break them loose, then a 1/4" ratchet to keep loosening them as I slid the starter out. It is tight and I am thankful that I have small hands.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
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