1996 850R stutters dies when warm

[jacsil]

+1 possible fuel pump issue, BUT, it could also be the MAF. They also act up more when hot.

Disconnect the MAF and drive it like that. It'll run kinda crappy, like an old carbureted engine out of adjustment, but if it's a MAF problem that'll stop the stalling. If so, get a new one, Bosch branded. Do not get a used, rebuilt, or aftermarket mass airflow sensor unless you really enjoy having these kinds of problems.

I put the old maf back in. I also thought that the wiring harness to the maf connector was tight with a sharp bend downward and no play. So I pulled back the rubber cover back ( it ripped) and pushed the wires in to the connector. One of them went in a bit the others didnt move. Also one of the green wires had some extra length to it that was be t over. Few time right before the connector.

I started the car up for 2 minutes it ran smooth. I disconnected the maf connector and I'd died right away. A few days ago when I pulled the connector it kept running. I'm assuming since it died right away that means the maf was functioning at that moment. Could it be the wires were not seated correctly?

Or am I just dreaming

[kcodyjr]

It's possible.

When you pull a good MAF with it running, it dies.

When you pull a bad MAF with it running, usually nothing happens, depending how gone it is.

When you disconnect a bad MAF and start it, it runs better.

[jacsil]

Hi thanks for your reply a couple of things

1) when I disconnected the maf and it died the car wasn't warmed up yet does this matter? Should I warm it up fully then try unplugging the maf?

2) when it throws a code it's still usually just crank position sensor even though it was replaced. It was replaced with a VDO / Siemens brand not bosch. I was told that vdo is oem on some cars. It was tested after it was installed and threw the same code and I was told it was functioning properly . I have also been told that it when it dies and sometimes there is some jerking when it dies on the freeway that can cause an the crank sensor to throw a code your thoughts

[kcodyjr]

1) if the stalling doesn't usually happen until it's warm then yes, let it warm up. if the stalling happens cold, then you need only wait until the idle settles down.

2) some cars doesn't cut it. find out what's OEM on your year and model and make sure you've got that. also make sure that the wires aren't loose or anything.

[jacsil]

Found out Vdo is oem for the crank sensor

Going to disconnect maf when car is warm and see if it will run without dying out

[jacsil]

1) MAF today i pulled the maf when the car was warm. not much of a change in park however when i put the car in drive or reverse it would immediately die. tried several times with same results.

2) Resetting long term fuel trims (no luck) Also i tried several times to do a hard reset on the ecu by disconcerting the battery letting it stand for a bit then touching the cables together. i also cleared the stored codes using the code reader scan tool. but when i would start the car and go to live data it would still show the long term fuel trim at minus or negative 10.2.

I even tried stepping on the brake and turning the key to the start position but none seemed to work.

any thoughts.

[jacsil]

TURBO BOOST

I also notice when driving today that when i floored the throttle the boost gauge needle only went slightly into the white area. at idle its all the way in the black and with the key off the needle is in the middle of the gauge.

Vacuum leak. is it possible i have a vacuum leak. my long term fuel trim is a negative number and i thought the trim would need to show positive in order to have a leak.

Still getting the P0036 code with the new Crank position sensor installed.

[jacsil]

Intercooler hose that attaches to throttle body

Intercooler hose that attaches to throttle body

Found bad intercooler hose.

Since some of my grounds from engine to chasis seemed suspect I bought 4 gauge cable with ends at autozone and attached to the transmission housing using one of the starter mounting bolts.

When doing this I removed the intercooler hose that attaches to the throttle body. It was then I noticed a one inch tear in the hose. It goes almost all the way thru the hose it looks like there is some reinforcing mesh on the inside of the hose and it didn't make it thru this. I would say its 99% thru and what's left looks porous . Perhaps as hose heats up its letting air in.



I'm putting a new one on this evening.

[phils94850]

thatll do it... go silicone and u wont have issues..

[jacsil]

Well I went the less expensive route. URO brand. Looks like it will be a bit tough getting it on. We will see. Hopefully this does it