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Volvo DIY compared to Mercedes DIY

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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jblackburn
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Re: Volvo DIY compared to Mercedes DIY

Post by jblackburn »

Seaway wrote:So the thing to do is replace both, I assume?
Your code sounds electrical in nature, so would start with the relay mentioned in the other thread. If the pump runs and sounds OK, I might drill the holes in the bottom of it and replace the SAS valve.
'98 S70 T5
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Seaway
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Post by Seaway »

jblackburn wrote:
Seaway wrote:So the thing to do is replace both, I assume?
Your code sounds electrical in nature, so would start with the relay mentioned in the other thread. If the pump runs and sounds OK, I might drill the holes in the bottom of it and replace the SAS valve.
Gotcha. I am getting ahead of myself. I will check the pump and relay and then move on from there. I just want the light off on the dash!

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Post by rmmagow »

The same outfit that sold me the pump has the control valve for something like $30.00. I don't know the quality but the thing is so simple in operation it would probably be fine. I stick to Volvo for ignition related items and for various very Volvo unique things, but for everything else price is the driver. Never any URO rubber parts ever though. Evap cores, heater cores, even radiators there are some good after market parts available. Our Vendors offer good stuff at good prices too.
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Seaway,

Re SAS Pump, I spent days and days replacing the bearings inside the Air Pump.
Then Air Valve on the Exhaust Manifold then blah blah blah.
Then the 90-cent diode fixed it lol.

If you do a search on BMW, VW, Volvo SAS system, then you will realize that this is an over-engineered system, mind you though it is good for the environment (less pollution during the first 90 sec of a cold start).

I am a tree hugger but with all the pain I go through fixing the SAS "properly", I went the diode way lol...
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osman
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Post by osman »

Actually SAS does absolutely nothing for emissions, it adds air to exhaust thus lowering the percentage of CO2 but not the actual amount of particulates in the air. Like Carbon Credits it doesnt really make sense except for being able to use statistics to avoid EPA regulations. Kind of like beating a drug test at work by drinking lots of water. The amount of metabolites you pass are the same, but if you add lots of extra water the metabolites are in much greater dilution.
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Post by jblackburn »

osman wrote:Actually SAS does absolutely nothing for emissions, it adds air to exhaust thus lowering the percentage of CO2 but not the actual amount of particulates in the air. Like Carbon Credits it doesnt really make sense except for being able to use statistics to avoid EPA regulations. Kind of like beating a drug test at work by drinking lots of water. The amount of metabolites you pass are the same, but if you add lots of extra water the metabolites are in much greater dilution.
It helps to quickly "light off" the catalytic converter and get it reducing pollutants as quickly as possible. Many cars from the late 90's - mid 2000's used them.

It's done these days with variable valve and spark timing, as well as placing a small catalyst as close as possible to the exhaust manifold, and another down-stream.

As long as your car never has to pass a tailpipe test from a dead cold start, it'll be fine.
'98 S70 T5
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A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

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Seaway
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Post by Seaway »

jblackburn wrote:
osman wrote:Actually SAS does absolutely nothing for emissions, it adds air to exhaust thus lowering the percentage of CO2 but not the actual amount of particulates in the air. Like Carbon Credits it doesnt really make sense except for being able to use statistics to avoid EPA regulations. Kind of like beating a drug test at work by drinking lots of water. The amount of metabolites you pass are the same, but if you add lots of extra water the metabolites are in much greater dilution.
It helps to quickly "light off" the catalytic converter and get it functioning.

It's done these days with variable valve and spark timing.

As long as your car never has to pass a tailpipe test from a dead cold start, it'll be fine.
Jblackburn -

So if I do the delete, clear the code and then run it for a bit before I take it to have the emissions tested I should be okay in VA?

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Post by osman »

Or you could run your tank almost empty and put in an alcohol octane booster instead of petrol. But yeah make sure the car is nice an warmed up when they are their most efficient.
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jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

Seaway wrote:
Jblackburn -

So if I do the delete, clear the code and then run it for a bit before I take it to have the emissions tested I should be okay in VA?
Yeah, far as I know, Fairfax Co just does an OBDII test, not a tailpipe sniffer. Just had mine inspected last month and values weren't listed on the inspection sheet for HC count or anything.
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2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

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Seaway
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Post by Seaway »

I just got off the phone with a service station that does inspections. He assured me all they do is an OBDII test to make sure it is not showing any faults. So looks like the delete may be the way to go after all...

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