96 850 Non Turbo. PCV System and Emissions

tourspin69 · Post by **tourspin69** » 28 Jul 2014, 20:44

Ok. I've tried and it's impossible to attach the existing vacuum hose based on it's location. I have moved as much as I can including the upper radiator hose. Still to tough. So just abandon that hose? and then run a new line across the top of the manifold to the flame trap? can you find me a picture of this? Thanks

Post by **erikv11** » 28 Jul 2014, 22:25

Here is the flame trap housing out of the car and opened up. The insert with all the little holes is the flame trap. If the insert is still in your car, remove it and throw it away, then just close up the housing. All it does is get clogged up.

The white hose is connected to the flame trap nipple, the other end of that white hose goes to the little metal nipple on the intake manifold, the one tucked in behind the power steering pump.

And this second pic is tough to read but it shows the nipple in the car. The small, bright silver clamp connects the vacuum line to the flame trap nipple. This is looking down from above, the distributor cap and the mounting disk underneath it is off so you can see the shiny inner surfaces of the head that are normally covered by the distributor cap.

: Flame trap housing on 90˚ intake hard pipe, non-turbo 850/x70

tourspin69 · Post by **tourspin69** » 29 Jul 2014, 05:09

thanks! I'll give this a try tonight

tourspin69 · Post by **tourspin69** » 29 Jul 2014, 05:30

one more question. I've got the vacuum hose connector(Volvo 9155862) for the manifold side. How much hose should I buy, will I need another hose connector to connect to the flame trap? and what size? I see you have a clamp and maybe 5/16 on the flame trap, but I need to get the other end connected to the 9155862? I'm a real weekend warrior....can't you tell?

Post by **erikv11** » 29 Jul 2014, 10:17

I just checked and it is definitely 3/16 vacuum line. You need like 3-4 feet. Get 5 feet and be sure.

For this solution you don't use the elbow. Put it in the toolbox. The hose will connect directly to each nipple.

Attach the 3/16 line to the manifold nipple first. It will be a tight fit you will want long nose pliers. You could pre-stretch the end of the hose by like putting it on something of a similar diameter overnight. When you go to install it on the manifold, dip the end in rubbing alcohol (70% is better than 30%, drugstores carry both) it is a great lubricant for rubber and will just evaporate. Dip it pretty far get like 2 inches wet inside, extra is good. Force the tubing on the metal nipple as far as you can. When it is on, you won't need a clamp on this end as the fit is tight. Then route the hose over to the flame trap, cut it to length if/as needed, and install that end. It will go on the plastic nipple easily, and get a little clamp in there to secure it. The plastic nipple can be fragile don't break it!

Just leave the other ends of the old hose in place, it doesn't matter. You can get rid of them if/when you do a full PCV job. If the replacement doesn't solve the smoking dipstick problem, you will need to do the rest of the PCV.

tourspin69 · Post by **tourspin69** » 29 Jul 2014, 11:21

Got it. If you were a betting man, what would you say the chances are that the smoking stops?

Post by **erikv11** » 29 Jul 2014, 11:39

Wellll if I were a betting man ... maybe 60% chance it will fix it?

Having that elbow disconnected almost always causes a check engine light (CEL) with a p0172 code, due to a vacuum leak through the disconnected thin line. Since you car doesn't have a CEL illuminated right now (correct?), I speculate that the thin line for the IM is clogged up, preventing any vacuum leak. And if the thin line is clogged up, then other lines and orifices in the PCV may be clogged up too.

But the low miles on your car may trump all, most of us have little to no experience with a car of this vintage with so few miles. Report back!

Do the rubber glove test over the oil filler tube too, it is more informative than the smoke test. A little dipstick smoke is not a big deal and can be somewhat ambiguous, but the glove should see vacuum when idling and more vacuum when revving.

And finally, even if the vacuum line helps matters out, the car is due for a PCV soon anyway. Start planning for it. A neglected PCV on these cars can lead to very expensive, non-DIY repair issues. Search for "rear main seal leak Volvo 850" you will get the gist of it.

tourspin69 · Post by **tourspin69** » 29 Jul 2014, 12:33

I hear ya. The good news is that it's our third car and will end up being my son's first car next year. Just got the car a month ago and already did timing, serpentine etc...new tires and alignment, new FM antenna, welded some holes in the exhaust and a few other small things. On my list is now the PCV system, Plugs, wires, cap etc., new exhaust pretty much from the manifold all the way back, sway bar links in the front, shocks and struts all around.

Right now just trying to pass NY State Emissions!! Hopefully this helps with the P0172. BTW Yes...Check Engine light was on...now in the clear stage and doing this repair before the monitors reset. Then going to try to get it passed.

Post by **erikv11** » 29 Jul 2014, 12:41

I didn't see/realize there is indeed a telltale P0172. Your chances of big help from the little line go way up, I'm betting at 80% now.

Only Bougicord on the wires, Bosch on the cap and rotor, yada yada ...

Post by **dosbricks** » 29 Jul 2014, 13:46

On Edit: Well shucks, a whole conversation has taken place while I was typing, so go with erikv's advice. He has it down right.

96 850 Non Turbo. PCV System and Emissions

Re: 96 850 Non Turbo. PCV System and Emissions