2000 V70XC - Should plugs be changed hot or cold (or warm)?

[dosbricks]

The block MUST be stone cold when installing the plugs; especially on aluminum block. Use a bit of anti-seize on the threads.

No, it doesn't NEED to be cold, you silly goose! I Luv Anti-Seize

I've always changed them cold. But what blocks need can only be known by blocks as the same can be said for heads, unless of course, they are block/heads ....sorry, couldn't help myself.

[abscate]

Great - another topic to add to the long list of popcorn producing threads!!

Oil changes, oil types, what color tape must be used to patch the holes in the ECU tube...

[jblackburn]

what color tape must be used to patch the holes in the ECU tube...

Pink...obviously.

JD - interesting points, as always.

[regent]

what color tape must be used to patch the holes ...

Pink...obviously...

I strongly disagree with pink. Given the nature of the existing considerations that require political correctness, I elect to plea colour blind and maintain anonymity at this time...

[jblackburn]

what color tape must be used to patch the holes ...

Pink...obviously...

I strongly disagree with pink. Given the nature of the existing considerations that require political correctness, I elect to plea colour blind and maintain anonymity at this time...

Don't hate.

[v70XCSteve]

Thanks for all the input regarding changing plugs hot vs. cold.
Considering the difference in thermal expansion between the steel plug and AL block, and since I don't know the 15yr history of the car, and since the turbo line looks like it has NEVER been off, I suspected the plugs were VERY old, and possibly a source of my CEL, so I:
*replaced the plugs while fairly hot, but didn't fully tighten them until almost cold. I wanted to make sure I could get them out - and it was tough.
*I opted not to use anti-seize (...I can hear the groans out there...) because of some of this forum discussion about electrical conductivity (my anti-seize is not copper based), and particulary since NGK recommends not to use it because they have a (metallic) coating on the threads that is intentionally to prevent seizing.
*I did not remove or disconnect the turbo line, other than un-bolting it from it's anchor, mid-tube, where it is secured to the block (maybe that's what was meant by the recommendation to disconnect the turbo line?). It was easy to persuade it a few cm to the side to access the last plug.
*I ran a can of BG44K through the brake booster vacuum line, VERY slowly (no hydro-lock or bent rods). From what I could hear (and I love the mechanical music of engines), things smoothed-out after about 20% of the can, but once opened, you can't re-seal it, so I ran the whole thing. (before I changed the plugs)
*New air filter
*New cabin air filter (there wasn't one when I opened the cowling - it was gone, as-in taken out and not replaced, previously)
*Fuel filter is next - seems like car won't start immediately, if cold, when you turn the key the first time. If I turn the key to on, leave for 10-15 seconds, then turn to start, it will start well on the first key turn (first try). If I don't let the fuel pump prime the system (pressurize) for 10-15 sec, it won't start on the first try.

Let me know if you have any thoughts. I'm new to the Volvo world and open to suggestions and ideas.

Here's my tip for avoiding cross-threading the plugs when installing / replacing plugs (maybe it's obvious, but not to everyone).
Put the plug down the hole with the socket extension and, like a safe-cracker, SLOWLY turn it to the left, counter-clockwise, as-if trying to un-screw it, with no force at all - just the weight of the plug and extension (so that no metal threads will be affected), using only your fingers to turn the socket extension. You will feel a slight "click" when the end of the plug thread goes over the end of the thread in the hole (in this case, the block). Immediately after the slight "click" is when the threads are engaged, and you can gently thread the plug in, with only gentle fingers turning the extension clockwise to start the threads. You can usually get at-least 2-5 full turns (at-least) before needing a socket - usually you can finger-turn the extension until the plug is all the way in to the crush-ring. You'll never cross-thread a plug, regardless of how hot and soft the Al block and threads are, if you do this (and do it gently, like a safe-cracker). Insure the threads are engaged properly, and gently screw the plug in with fingers on the extension - and you're good-to-go.