1998 V70 Cruise Control Vacuum Pump
- rspi
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Re: 1998 V70 Cruise Control Vacuum Pump
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
Thanks to all who provided assistance. Problem fixed. Turned out that brake pedal vacuum switch was in fact slow leaking and fixed by adding rubber spacer to end. What I learned and may be of help to someone diagnosing this issue.
1. Wires to stalk had cuts in insulation. Shrink tube wrap and all ok.
2. To check system for leaks, remove pump under battery, unplug and jump blue to positive terminal, green to negative (turns pump solenoid on/holds vaccum) and then white terminal to negative (turns pump motor on). Remove throttle cable cover so you can see cable being pulled. Remove white negative on battery, pump stops but green negative and blue positive still connected (solenoid remains on). Wait 30 seconds and if cable moves, you have leak. Remove and cap hose to brake pedal switch and repeat test. If it holds, brake pedal switch is problem. If it doesnt, remove servo and attach directly to pump outlet. If it holds vacuum, problem is in the vacuum lines. Follow them through and find leak.
Again, my problem was as suggested by phils above, brake switch not depressing far enough in allowing slow leak and fixed as he recommended.
Turn signal cancel repair: problem was as others have suggested on site, the tab on clock spring gets worn/grooved and no longer hits the white release tab on stalk fully. I re-greased stalk mechanical tab and put JB Weld (several layers) on clock spring tab to build it up again and now have signal cancel function again....
thanks again for help
1. Wires to stalk had cuts in insulation. Shrink tube wrap and all ok.
2. To check system for leaks, remove pump under battery, unplug and jump blue to positive terminal, green to negative (turns pump solenoid on/holds vaccum) and then white terminal to negative (turns pump motor on). Remove throttle cable cover so you can see cable being pulled. Remove white negative on battery, pump stops but green negative and blue positive still connected (solenoid remains on). Wait 30 seconds and if cable moves, you have leak. Remove and cap hose to brake pedal switch and repeat test. If it holds, brake pedal switch is problem. If it doesnt, remove servo and attach directly to pump outlet. If it holds vacuum, problem is in the vacuum lines. Follow them through and find leak.
Again, my problem was as suggested by phils above, brake switch not depressing far enough in allowing slow leak and fixed as he recommended.
Turn signal cancel repair: problem was as others have suggested on site, the tab on clock spring gets worn/grooved and no longer hits the white release tab on stalk fully. I re-greased stalk mechanical tab and put JB Weld (several layers) on clock spring tab to build it up again and now have signal cancel function again....
thanks again for help
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1337
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Thanks for explaining how to test the cruise control pump on the lab bench. I'm trying to track down a cruise control problem, and this will be the next thing I try.
Current: 2018 VW Golf 1.8T Manual
Previous: 1998 V70 T5 Manual, Subaru BRZ, Mini, Miata, etc.
Previous: 1998 V70 T5 Manual, Subaru BRZ, Mini, Miata, etc.
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