2000 V70 XC vibration at 15-20mph

[jblackburn]

Probably one that fits into a socket wrench would give you better leverage on it.

Have a look at p.4 of the attached - looks like they have a special counterhold tool (doubt you need that) and are using a socket wrench w/ an Allen bit in it.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?id=1391

[goVolvo]

Probably one that fits into a socket wrench would give you better leverage on it.

Have a look at p.4 of the attached - looks like they have a special counterhold tool (doubt you need that) and are using a socket wrench w/ an Allen bit in it.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?id=1391

The picture shows no down pipe, probably already taken off. Easy to do in shop, but not for me.

The screw is quite close to the shaft. Hard to put a socket and impact wrench head there. Without an impact wrench it is still easy to screw it up, because hand twisting is not perfect rotation.

I did the rear bolts without the special tool. Actually I cannot find that tool locally.

Maybe my best chance is to get a good hex bit socket on 1/4" wrench, find a way to push really hard on the back of wrench head and hope it does not slip. If no luck, will have to bring to a muffler shop to take off exhaust down pipes and drill the bolts off.

[goVolvo]

This shake is more mysterious now. This morning when I drove out, it shaked. After 10 minutes the shake becomes so light that I don't even notice it. Then on my way back after a quick brake at red light, it starts the shake as usual again.

When it is on life in the shop last Friday, the guy showed me that applying brake while driving caused pang noise in the vicious housing. Maybe that's a reason the shake happens after hard braking. Anyway, seems the rear drive line is to be blamed. It could have been worn out significantly, with 211k miles currently.

But engine and tranny appears to be really solid and fun to drive.

[goVolvo]

Did it! Da..n, success!
Details will be added tonight. Thanks all!

OK, story time.
It takes lot of time to jack up car, put on stand, twist myself on the floor like a worm under the car to get used to the position.

Posts here are very useful. Unbolt rear end first. I was using Allen key L shaped. Tried to the limit, the Allen key starts to bend when the bolt finally gives out. Then middle bearing and bracket. Not hard with iron pipe on wrench handle to leverage.

After undo the bottom bolts, jack up rear wheels with two floor jacks. Move to neutral and release parking brake. Turn the wheel so the shaft also turns to let you reach the other bolts.

Then I feel quite confident and start the front. It is tighter, and harder, as the shaft is right on top of down pipe. Only a small window on the left to access it. I tried Allen key and it slip out the cap bolt. Scary! Stop and go find better tool.

A 6mm hex in 1/4" socket looks the right tool, and my lasr resort. And it is right indeed. But it is really hard to find one. Sears and harborfreight only has 3/8" with 6mm hex head, no hex head on 1/4" socket. And no 6mm drive bit either, only 1/4" drive bit is available. Desperated, I went to Homedepot to buy smaller 8" iron pipe as the space under the car is too limited to use long pipe. I looked for 6mm hex again. Still there is no such socket. I had to search the combo tools. One of the Husky 65pcs box says 6mm drive bit, the only choice for me. Hope it works.

So back home and try again. I put the 6mm hex bit in a 1/4" SAE 1/4"socket. Looks pretty good. The bit head seems long enough and sit in the cap screw pretty tight. I undid a different screw successfuly with it, and the help of iron pipe. Still there is surprise. One of the bolts I didn't touch is somehow screwed and I cannot put the 6mm bit in. Skip it after several trial. Don't do it before screw it up.

Again, shift to P while unbolting, and shift to N to turn the shaft to next bolt. There is only one position to put in the wrench, luckily because the shaft is leaning on the right side and gives space on the left.


The half slipped bots I touched and half slipped turns out to be fine as the bit can sit all the way in it and bolts are undone. For the last one that bit cannot it in, I use a slightly smaller 6mm bit (not good quality as it is smaller than spec) that can be put in. Then I hammer it, try to make the openning unblocked. Then I put the good 6mm bit there, and hammer again and again, use an small extension bar as spacer and keep on hammering, until the bit goes in enough, if not completely. I finally cannot hammer more. Only choice is to undo it. I got luck finally, the bolt gives in!

Remove the bolts on middle bearing bracket and finally the propell shaft is moved out. Try wiggle the two joints at the front and rear end. I feel the difference. It is a little sticky at certain angle when wiggling the front joint. So it i not smooth all the way. Also the bolts comes out from front joint are covered by black grease, while the bolts from rear joint are still clean and I can see the read thread lock paint. So this makes big difference when the shaft is spinning in driving condition. The stickness at certain angle will generate vibration for sure, on this 30lbs shaft. The shaft middle bearing is fixed on the bracket with exhaust pipe hangers. Vibration is resonated easily and created shakes of the whole body.

Now my car runs silk smooth. What a relief!

Think about fixing the joint and it should be all good again. VIDA has the intruction for the joint. If I can get the joint parts from dealer probably it is very reasonnable to DIY instead of spending $450 to get a rebuild one from Colorado Drivingaxle. Very attempting to do it and make AWD live again on it.

I'll add these to the driving shaft thread as well. Thanks for reading.

[goVolvo]

After this thing I now becomes very sensitive on vibrations.
I am also driving another 1998 S70 FWD non-turbo, and it is simply smooth and suspension response is comfortable. On this V70XC (FWD only now), I got into the mood now and then wondering about small vibrations. I would wonder:

- Is the after market axle good quality and well balanced? Though it is tight, but eems not as smooth as original old axle.
- Are the tires in good quality and right pressure? I checked pressure to ensure they are all 33 or 34 psi, standard.
- Is the road not smooth? (which is common around my area. but in the S70 I don't feel much road noise.)
- Is alignment still good? (My steering wheel points straight without problem).
- Are tires well balanced? (Maybe it is time to balance them, one year old now.)
- Are the rear driving axles good or need to check?
- Is suspension too old and does not absorb road noise very well?

Sign I am just worried about this car.

[JBC2565]

I have the same vibration on my 2000 V70 XC SE. Looks like I need to replace the propshaft. Colorado drive shaft hear I come.
I replaced a leaking steering rack a year ago .
Car has 130,000 miles.
Thinking about doing the front end while I have it up. Control arms, struts, tie rods (and outer), bump stops, strut bushings and parts (bearing, washer and mount), sway bar end link,.

Should I worry about stabilizer bar or go ahead and replace axle and cv joints while I have it broken down this far? I'd hate to do all this and then have axle go bad in 15,000 miles.
Anything else I should do??
Thanks for the help and forum. Great info.
John

[goVolvo]

Mine is 211k mile. Maybe it is up to the life time of thoses uspension parts somehow. Did a tire balancing and maybe feel bette now. Was told that structs are due to replace. Don't know if I should DIY or do it in a shop. And yet to order the ball joint from Colorado Shaft. If you can replace just the joint it is much cheaper.

[850 LPT]

If you can somehow afford it, get a new driveshaft from Colorado. Sooner or later your center bearing is going to fail, and you can't replace that.

Sounds like you are pretty handy, maybe you want to consider doing the struts yourself. They are very easy to do on these cars and it would save you a bunch on labor (put those savings towards the driveshaft ).

[JBC2565]

I see the ball joint kit is $90 and propshaft is $420. I'd be real mad at myself if I only replaced the front bearing and then something else failed. I don't mind doing something once but if I have to go back and do it again, I get mad at myself. I think I will do the propshaft.
Any thought on the cv axle? Car does have 130,000 and once again, while I have it all apart, I just want to be done with it.
How long does the axle last?
Looking at the boots, they look intact. Also looking at the sway bar, can't see why I should replace that.
I'm planning on doing this all myself. I'll wait for a warmer weekend and have at it.
Thinking about rear engine mounts as well. I have the 4 bolt control arm so have to raise the engine up a bit anyways. Great tutorial on the forum for all this. Thanks.
Then for new tires and an alignment and enjoy vibration free ride hopefully.

[goVolvo]

Update after about half year and 4k miles on it. Glad I didn't have other problems, except that the fuel gauge only goes between 6gal and 16gal range even the tank is empty or full. I just need to use trip meter to fill gas every 200 to 250 miles and make sure I don't run out of gas.

- The car is still not silky smooth. I can tell there is engine vibration around 15mph, and also when turbo kicks in (especially when going uphill). This could be the original source of propel shaft vibration. And with #87 fuel this vibration is much more obvious than with #93. So I always use #93 now.

- I don't need AWD regularly. Even if I go ski this winter, the road to ski resort does not require AWD. Just need tire chain couple of times a year (if ever). So I leave the shaft in my garage for now. I will maybe mount it when it is time to see the car.

- Strut may be the next thing. The front left strut makes noise on road bumps in morning. I can do it when I have enough time and willing to to kill.