2002 s60. Won't start

[precopster]

An apparentlu failed accelerator pedal position sensor is often a false code. The code means : throttle/pedal position sensor switch "D" circuit.

If this is a non turbo you have a Magnetti ETM throttle. With ignition in Pos II you have around 8 seconds to test pedal movement vs throttle flap movement. You can do this by simply removing the rubber bellows to MAF. While you're there check that the spring loaded throttle flap moves freely from fully closed to fully open position.

Try a battery reset which involves removing ONLY one terminal from the battery and touching the other.

Then clear the code and rescan the vehicle. The pedal assembly is made by Hella and is extremely reliable. Only one documented failure here on MVS.

[Jimmyd48]

Ok, here is what I have done today and results.

I removed the air intake hose to the throttle body. In position 2 the pedal has no effect on the flapper. However, when I have my assistant (read wife) try to start the car and push the pedal the flapper reacts to the input. Moves freely by hand and returns fully and quick when released.

Tried to spray some starting fluid in as she cranked,, nothing different. No pop, no momentary fire.

Pulled a plug and I have spark.

Any thoughts? Could it be the Crankshaft position sensor as mentioned earlier? I want to hope so, but will take all thoughts.

Thanks, Jim

[draser]

Both codes are pointing to pedal sensor, so some testing is required. Any pedal failure puts ecu in limp mode, and may prevent start. Can you hook up a scanner and see if connects to ecu with key on 2 to read freeze frames?

[Jimmyd48]

THe only scanner I have available is an OBDII Actron. To get a dealer to scan I will need to tow it in. The throttle opens when the pedal is pushed down when attempting start.

[precopster]

I have tested probably over 150 ETMs in my vehicle. Some of them with very poor driving and nasty throttle problems, however none of them prevented a start from occurring. Even a disconnected pedal sensor will allow a start and idle.

Only when a throttle flap is stuck closed will there be starting problems.

You have fuel however how much pressure is there?

[abscate]

Tried to spray some starting fluid in as she cranked,, nothing different. No pop, no momentary fire.

Pulled a plug and I have spark.

Pull plugs, add starting fluid directly into the cylinders. If that won't get some fire going, you have got a clear ignition problem to deal with.

[Jimmyd48]

I have tested probably over 150 ETMs in my vehicle. Some of them with very poor driving and nasty throttle problems, however none of them prevented a start from occurring. Even a disconnected pedal sensor will allow a start and idle.

Only when a throttle flap is stuck closed will there be starting problems.

You have fuel however how much pressure is there?

Isn't running fuel pressure different than not running? Will there be significant difference and will the non-running pressure be an indication of fuel flow issues?

What should the pressure be at?

Also, I want to point out to all that once this is resolved I promise to post that FINAL with the solution. I have seen too many threads where the last suggestion is the last post without a result. Makes it hard to know what work!

THanks

THanks.

[harryhendo]

Sorry to butt in here again. Just to rewind, your daughter drove 800 miles, and then the next day the car wouldn't start. Sounds like the car was running fine the whole way. If there were a fuel pressure problem, she would have noticed poor running, or the next day you'd have seen a puddle of gas underneath the car (a leak - you didn't mention one), or the fuel pump would have failed (you said it runs).

You see spark. That's good. So you have no fuel. As abscate said, pull the plugs, spray in some carb cleaner, and you should at least get few firing cycles. That further verifies that you have no fuel.

As a further data point, when the CPS fails, it tells the computer not to run the injectors (the computer has no idea where the piston is, so it turns off the injectors). Thus no fuel is injected. So I think replacing the CPS is the solution.

Let us know what you find out!

[Jimmyd48]

Ok to recap for my understanding.

The thought is; if I pull plugs, spray starting fluid in each, re-plug and attempt starting. If it seems like it will fire (though not long or well) it tells me I have a no fuel situation. Then that could signal that the crank position sensor is faulty and not telling injectors to basically, inject fuel.

Do I have that part right so far?

Now if I do all the above, but no running occurs, what do we think then?

I do have a crank sensor on hold at the local dealer along with the holder. As I tried to remove sensor the bolt spun and removed itself from holder body.

I also noticed a ground strap was not connected to car, (rear of engine, topside by timing belt) bolt was gone. I had hoped it was that, reconnected, but same stuff. Really wanted it to be a $.35 fix!

I will be back with results.

Thanks again.

[Jimmyd48]

Ok today's results or lack there of.

Installed new OEM Crank Position Sensor and its holder. LEt me tell you, the holder is one mother to get off! If I was given any super power, it would be the ability to shrink my hands down to that of a 3 year old yet still have the strength of a grown man.

Anyway, no change, no start.

I tried the next suggestion, pull the plugs and add some carb cleaner and attempt start. Maybe it popped or sounded promising, but the second you release the key, nothing.

Cleared codes. The minute I try to start it, back comes P2121 (throttle pedal circuit D) and P0037 O2 sensor.

Suggestions?

Thanks