2002 S60 AWD - loss of power, won't start, lots of codes

zmf · Post by **zmf** » 22 Jun 2015, 08:25

Last Tuesday my car died on the way in to work. 80 mph on the highway, then suddenly nothing (but still running). No response at all from the throttle. Limped off the highway with it stumbling and running really rough, not getting above idle. I shut it down, waited, restarted, and it was all good the rest of the way to work.

Fine on the way home. Checked for codes and got none. Fine the next day. Friday I started it up, and it was running really rough again. I checked for codes, and got 0068, 0221, and 2111. I shut it off, and restarted. It ran fine all the way home. Code 2111 disappeared, but I still had the others.

Stupidly, I ignored the car this weekend and tried to drive in to work this morning. It was fine for about 20 seconds and then rough, and then off. I pulled over and could not restart it. It was warm and really wet and humid this morning (may be unrelated).

I waited a few hours and went to try to at least get it back to my driveway so I could work on it. It would start and run rough, or start and run smoothly, but the second I put it in 'D', it died. I could rev it up and it sounded fine and the tach moved appropriately. The first time I got code 0336. The second, and every time since, I've gotten 0337. It's only 3 houses down the street, but busy enough I have to wait until tonight to pull it back home.

Based on what I've read, I could replace the MAF, throttle body, and crankshaft sensors. I'm just wondering if this might be more indicative of a ECU (ETM?) fault or some other more general thing. Or if when all of those trip, it's really just one of them. Maybe. This happened ~8 years ago and I limped to the dealer and they updated the software (as I recall - can't find the paperwork), and it was good since then.

I just spent ~$2k on the suspension, so I'm hoping to get this one to last a little bit longer. 170k miles on it now.

Thanks for any input.

Post by **JRL** » 22 Jun 2015, 09:37

02s do not suffer from ETM issues unless it's thoroughly filthy.
170K, gees it could be anything, but it sounds as if you may have either multiple failures or an electrical communication issue
Those codes seem to run the gamut from 02 sensors, MAF sensor, crank sensor and so forth.
I doubt everything could have failed at once but at least one of those is fracking up the works

Post by **Vovo_merz** » 22 Jun 2015, 10:02

I would try the MAF sensor first I have first hand experience of giving me a run around thinking its something else, get a used one to give it a try and see if anything changes I bought them on ebay for around $20, so if its not it you are not really loosing anything

Post by **velorider** » 23 Jun 2015, 02:01

If JRL comment about a communication issue and your comment about humility makes sense. There is a thread here about a guy who spent a long time chasing codes to discover it was a communication issue and cleaning the ecm connector fixed it. I don't have a link to the thread but try searching some and you should find it.

Post by **precopster** » 23 Jun 2015, 07:55

That guy who cleaned the ECM after an exhaustive parts replacement may have been me. Also the Bosch 2002 throttles can have connector pin problems. Remove the throttle connector and retension the pins if possible.

zmf · Post by **zmf** » 01 Jul 2015, 03:17

Thanks for the responses guys. I was planning to come here today to tell you my success story - really, I was!

I got a cheap MAF sensor off of ebay with 120k on it and put it in. I also cleaned the crank speed sensor, which wasn't really all that dirty. (side note - this was way easier when it failed on my '89 740, I miss the B230F. Even removing the reasonable-to-remove stuff in the way, I still couldn't get it out without breaking the connector plug, loom side of course). I went from 5 in 10 starts being good in a week to 1/10 when I posted to 10/10. I was thinking this morning that I didn't really know what fixed it, and that I should probably get a crank speed sensor just in case.

Well, as I was thinking this, going 60 on the highway, it died. Engine did the no throttle response thing, and stumbled but didn't die as I tried to get to a safe position at 4mph. Checked the codes, 0068, 0221, 2111 again. Multiple engine restarts didn't get it to go as it had before, but on one attempt I got 0638, which was new, and seems throttle related again. So I guess that's where I need to redouble my efforts. I'm just hoping I can make it home again.

So instead of an update "hey I fixed it, thanks guys" post, it's more of an update "continuing saga" post.

Post by **precopster** » 01 Jul 2015, 07:57

I was called to a so-called throttle issue last week on a 2001 XC. The diagnostic breakdown technician's scanner pulled up a P code which was meant to be a throttle code when he looked it up in his little black book.

I listened to the engine and sure enough it was as rough as a sailor's stubble. So I arrived ready to pull throttle codes and instead found knock sensor signal low and a cylinder 1 misfire. Two hours later a new coil pack cured the engine wobbles and a new knock sensor will cure the detonation on mid to full throttle when it arrives (the owner was using 91 RON fuel which is low grade) I gave him strict orders to top up with 98 RON fuel.

The point is that without a garage quality scanner (or Chinese knock-off Dice and Vida) you are going to be guessing on this for a long time.

zmf · Post by **zmf** » 07 Jul 2015, 11:50

While I don't disagree with you, I feel like that's exactly what my dealer would always do, throw parts at problems until they went away. It's one of the reasons I went back to doing my own work a few years ago. It's been working well for me until now.....

I took your advice and got DICE/VIDA setup, which was a huge pain to get everything working properly. I don't think I've used it to its potential on this problem yet, but wow - that thing is cool, well worth the price already. I've got a lot to learn on this, so I'm kind of stumbling through that now.

I got a ton of codes on two different runs - see the pics. After a few starts, it started running fine again. I cleared the codes, and have nothing now, so I'm going to see if I can get it to trip up again today.

I'm still thinking throttle body, but I haven't done anything yet since it's such a pain to get at. I guess an air leak could be involved, since a lot of the codes point to that, but it's intermittent, which doesn't sound like an air leak to me (could be wrong, but why after 20 miles of trouble free driving?). I sprayed some TB cleaner around and didn't pick up any indications, but I probably need a proper setup to check for leaks. Any suggestions for doing this on the cheap? I'll search a bit. youtube didn't help me much here yet. The Volvo tool sounds good, but probably expensive.

Post by **precopster** » 07 Jul 2015, 15:22

These codes appear to be taken at least 45 minutes apart. I assume that you are scrolling down to clear all codes before retesting in the delivery tab.

The predominant thing I see that will prevent smooth running and even prevent startup are the throttle codes.
However being a Bosch unit I'm hesitant to see you spend $300 on a new unit. Because the connector pins to the Bosch throttle have been blamed in the past it would be interesting to grab a throttle connector from any 2002 onwards turbo car from a junkyard and solder it to your loom. If you're really good with wires you could splice 2 throttle connectors in, leaving the original intact.

My first stop here would be to remove the ECM (engine control module) and clean the strip connector thoroughly with electrical contact cleaner and a toothbrush.

Way too many codes to be a group of suddenly failing engine components.

Post by **abscate** » 08 Jul 2015, 05:11

You also have an air leak fault. This could be the source of about 1/2 of your codes being displayed...all the misfire codes, etc.

It's much more common to have failures of hoses, clamps, holes, etc. than components in these cars.

Let's see which codes come back first.