1995 850 turbo fails to start after head gasket replacemen

[kahl]

I have been in your position a few times and I always went to spark, compression and fuel. I have used a Noid light and lighted spark checker to see if they light close to each other. Another thing I got from one of Robert's videos was the proper orinentation of the cam shafts on the back of the engine. Using a wood dowl is #1 cylinder almost at TDC with the timing marks ? Have you shot starting fluid into the intake manifold? Is your distributor rotor at #1 spark plug lead when cylinder#1 is at TDC? I have also managed to incorrectly install my CPS incorrectly. You have to be close to firing this thing up.

[jthm77]

OK gentlemen,
My morning in review:
Turned it over for an extended period
Pulled the shraeder valve and bled the fuel rail COMPLETELY
PULLED the fuel rail and Injectors and turned it over to verify fuel through the injectors. OK
Confirmed TDC cylinder 1 and distributor 1.OK
Pulled 3 of 5 plugs to check flooding . OK

There was a point when I almost thought it was going to fire while bleeding the fuel rail by just depressing the valve stem , that's why I proceeded to pulling the stem entirely to get a better bleed.
But the odds were not in my favor apparently.

I have not tried the LAWNMOWER trick of oil in the cylinders but I am getting close, I guess a compression tester will be the next step .

Does anyone have a feeling on the throttle position sensor code even though the TPS tests OK on the multi meter? I can't see wiring going bad sitting in the garage but if it tests OK at the sensor but throws a code could it be a wiring issue along the harness? Knowing the fun that would be trying to find.......

[kahl]

Any chance you have the TPS plugged into the Idle Control Valve and vice versa? I recall a post where someone said it was possible. Here is a picture of the Idle Control plug.

[jthm77]

I have to say no to the switched harnesses , my TPS HA BRN\BLK, Y, ORG\WHT. Though my ICV has G, BLU\BLK, BLU\WHT. and I use colored zip ties on ALL small hose and harness connections as I disconnect them so I do t confuse them on reinstall.
But thank you for that suggestion. I will entertain ANY ideas.

[jthm77]

I tried the oil trick and it did show MAJOR improvement but did not start. I repeated it with a touch of fuel added and it actually made it worse.

[FLXC90]

try disconnecting fuel pump relay, spray a shot of starting fluid in the intake, and cranking, or while cranking if you have a helper. If it catches and runs, it's fuel related, if not, look at timing or mechanical issues. (is your cam position sensor-rear of exhaust cam properly installed?)

[erikv11]

Fuel is the whole problem, basically the engine is flooded, so adding fuel will not help.

Dry out the spark plugs, let the cylinders dry out a few hours with the plugs out, add a teaspoon of oil to each, replace plugs and then crank it for 60 seconds until it starts. When it coughs, don;t let up keep cranking until it starts well enough to run.

What FLXC90 suggests with starting fluid is similar but more of a diagnostic test and may not give a clear report. Worth a try, just saying it is not unambiguous to interpret if you don't get it started.

Do triple check all of your connections and the CPS, but I still think it is just lawnmower/flooding.

[jthm77]

OK I will pull the plugs and let it set over night, I just don't see how it could be flooding . the plugs were not wet when I pulled them . I don't understand the oil part but it seemed to help. I have the battery on a trickle so it will be ready for some solid cranking.
The crank and cam position sensors are new . and I did verify proper position of the cam sensor "sending" unit for lack of a better word.

[jthm77]

Plugs are pulled. Cleaned and ready for tomorrow. I will put the oil in and then the p!ugs and give it a serious cranking.

[Ozark Lee]

I will put the oil in and then the p!ugs and give it a serious cranking.

Do it outside. The smoke cloud will be pretty amazing once it starts.

...Lee