1998 s70 replacing brake lines, need some advice!

[cn90]

Bleeder screws: aftermarket is OK but ATE OEM is better.

[JRev]

Just an update on this as I may have screwed things up (literally) or a previous garage had damaged the threads previous as I did have a garage do work on these rear brakes before but it may be my fault!

I removed all the pipes, hooked up the rear left with the y splitter and connected the new hose (to the pipe), i bent the new brake pipe via a new route and connected to the other side of the new hose but when tightening the union to the caliper, the threads have somehow stripped on both the caliper and the union as I tested the caliper thread with another union that has all its thread and it won't tighten.

I've never over tightened any bolts before but I did notice when i first started tightening the caliper union, it was turning tightly, then went loose and then tight again, and I'm not sure how I can have done so much damage with just a brake pipe spanner and very little leverage?

Anyway, we live and learn! I'm going to have to order a new caliper and another piece of brake pipe, but may be a blessing in disguise, as the caliper I'm working on did get stuck open a year back so that may need to have been replaced anyway.

[abscate]

Classic cross thread. Btdt. You need to start unions very carefully and fingers only until you get 2-3 complete threads turned on. When you can't start them by hand because they are slightly askew, the wrench will cross thread them every time ....

[JRev]

Classic cross thread. Btdt. You need to start unions very carefully and fingers only until you get 2-3 complete threads turned on. When you can't start them by hand because they are slightly askew, the wrench will cross thread them every time ....

My eyes are dry now lol I'm sure i'm not the first to make a cock up but won't lie, gutted!

The union for the Y Splitter went in by hand, 2-3 turns and then tightened with brake pipe spanner. for the caliper I guess I must have gone in at an angle but didn't realise they are so easily cross threaded.

[abscate]

I think I've posted this elsewhere but if you ever are replacing calipers start the pipes ( either soft or hard) before you attach the caliper to the carrier. You can get the parts aligned much easier when you can move both

[JRev]

I think I've posted this elsewhere but if you ever are replacing calipers start the pipes ( either soft or hard) before you attach the caliper to the carrier. You can get the parts aligned much easier when you can move both

Ok cheers.

One trick I did learn, is to use an old whisky bottle for bending the pipe, the bending tool I purchased was next to useless.

[JRev]

Just before I order a new pipe, would it be possible to cut the old pipe to remove the union that is stripped, attach a new union and then use a flare kit on the pipe? as even with the pipe cut, there would be still enough length to run to the hose?

Bearing in mind the pipe is an original volvo one which I ordered.

[erikv11]

I don't have experience with the flaring process but in general that is perfectly fine if you can flare. The only drawback is you will have an old fitting. You can also go buy a new fitting and do it that way.

[abscate]

Do some research before you buy your flare kit as there are at least three different types of flare fittings I know of - and probably some I don't.

[JRev]

I don't have experience with the flaring process but in general that is perfectly fine if you can flare. The only drawback is you will have an old fitting. You can also go buy a new fitting and do it that way.

I was looking at these brake line kits as an alternative, with the flaring kit but I guess to be 100% safe I should just take it on the chin and order the parts ready made, although I know if I took the line to a garage and asked them to fix the line and attach a union, they could do that.

I've ordered the new caliper anyway and if I order a replacement pipe, gets sent from Sweden or Germany, one of these jobs you hope to never do again!