Hey guys,
I got my V70 R AWD last nummer with 160K on it. PO clearly did not do goo maint. and I had to replace many components when I bought the car. I knew that the PCV probably needed a good clean due to the neglect by the PO. I wanted to clean it 6 months ago but never got around.. Of course, last week it started getting cold here in louisville and I blew mult. oil seals. A month ago, I actually had oil seeping from my oil filter from building pressure in the crank case.. after I tightened that down (not realizing pressure in my case was at a critical level) I began blowing many seals. The seals that went first were the rear cam seal, the turbo oil return, and of course... the dreaded rear main seal...
I decided to stop driving the car and had the PCV cleaned at the stealership (bad decision). The only reason I didnt do it myself was because of the labor. Anyway, I got the car home and did a quick rear cam seal replacement as well as a thermostat and ICT that needed replacement. After this, I ran a glove test on my engine to see if I could drive it since the PCV was cleaned out. I HAVE LARGE POSITIVE CRANKCASE PRESSURE STILL. I was pissed because the dealership should have confirmed that the pressure was negative before giving me the car back.. I even asked them what the pressure was after the fix and somehow they ran around the question and I never got an answer..
So, after that discovery, I went to clean my PTC Nipple. Got the PTC off and barely moved the rigid main PTC connection and IT SNAPPED the tube... The dealership never replaced this tube when they did the PCV!!! I was sooo pissed. MY PTC was not clogged but it was dirty and I doubt the dealership cleaned up the ports in the crankcase to the breather box..
Anyway, the point is, What should I do? My car is on ramps and Id have to basically redo the PCV fix that I already paid the dealership to do just to replace that tube.. Im confident that I can do that (with TG coming up) but im wary about that not being the cause of the large pressure. The engine runs great and is VERY strong with makes me feel certain that large blow by from the rings is not the cause.
1) Is there anything else that can cause large crankcase pressure? (besides PCV and PTC)
2) Can I drive the car if I plug the PTC connection to the turbo intake and leave the PTC tube from the breather box open to atmosphere?
3) What else should I look at besides the PCV/PTC?
I dont want to fix the turbo return line until I fix the positive crank pressure. The rear main seal is not getting fixed by me, im fine with seeping. no engine is prefect. I have considered buying a whole new engine and having it put in to remedy the situation. Ive changed the oil every 3500 with Castrol Edge 10w30 synthetic. I thous I would have reversed damage from PO by this point but apparently not... What do you guys think I should do?
1998 V70 R AWD PVC, PTV Mult. oil leaks. Need some advice
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FLXC90
- Posts: 1132
- Joined: 18 August 2014
- Year and Model: 98 V70 T5
- Location: Florida Panhandle
- Has thanked: 16 times
- Been thanked: 45 times
See the "ultimate" pcv fix thread swapping brittle plastic for hose. PM some other info
Current Volvos:
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)
Thanks FLXC90! I'm surprised all my research did not surface that thread!
My main concern is that if the dealer replaced my breather, and I KNOW my PTC was not clogged. Why do I still have positive crankcase pressure? I have not run a compression test on the cylinders but I suppose I could be dealing with significant blow by which upgrade of that plastic tube to 5/8" would fix..
I am also concerned that once I complete the fix myself, the pressure may still be very high.. How do I ensure during the PCV pipe fix that when I am done and turn the key I will be running negative crankcase pressure? I'm mainly interested in types of tests I can run like compressed air blow through tubes and that sort of thing prior to putting it all back together.
Also, mar car has most of the original plastic tubing under the hood. So what do you guys think I should replace as long as I'm down in there again?
I was also concerned that the oil tubes from the oil pan could be clogged but I had the lower Orings replaced when I was experiencing a ticking at idle from poor oil pressure to the head. I wanted to use some type of stop leak agent (ATP-20 has been recommended) but am afraid that if i do have clogged passages still, that stop leak agents would fully clog them all and cook my engine. Any thoughts?
My main concern is that if the dealer replaced my breather, and I KNOW my PTC was not clogged. Why do I still have positive crankcase pressure? I have not run a compression test on the cylinders but I suppose I could be dealing with significant blow by which upgrade of that plastic tube to 5/8" would fix..
I am also concerned that once I complete the fix myself, the pressure may still be very high.. How do I ensure during the PCV pipe fix that when I am done and turn the key I will be running negative crankcase pressure? I'm mainly interested in types of tests I can run like compressed air blow through tubes and that sort of thing prior to putting it all back together.
Also, mar car has most of the original plastic tubing under the hood. So what do you guys think I should replace as long as I'm down in there again?
I was also concerned that the oil tubes from the oil pan could be clogged but I had the lower Orings replaced when I was experiencing a ticking at idle from poor oil pressure to the head. I wanted to use some type of stop leak agent (ATP-20 has been recommended) but am afraid that if i do have clogged passages still, that stop leak agents would fully clog them all and cook my engine. Any thoughts?
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FLXC90
- Posts: 1132
- Joined: 18 August 2014
- Year and Model: 98 V70 T5
- Location: Florida Panhandle
- Has thanked: 16 times
- Been thanked: 45 times
The ATP-205 is not a stop-leak like the junk at Wal-Mart. It is a plasticizer, that is, it reconditions the rubber seals, allowing them to become flexible again. When I did my cam seals, my intake fell out it was so dried. After I changed the cam seals, I still had a small steady drip from my RMS. I don't any more. (and yes, I still have oil!)
Current Volvos:
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)
Readers,
I decided to redo the PCV job as per the suggestion from FLXC90. After I got the car back from the dealer, I was still leaking a fair amount of oil and I could smell it when I got out burning on my exhaust. It turned out that I got to it early because from what I can tell, only one of my rear main seals had been pushed out from the pressure. I also took FLXC90's advice in performing a PCV ultimate fix with heater hose.
When I got down to the PCV, my suspicions had been confirmed. The hard, brittle tube had been broken in several places throughout the sheath. It was clear that who ever was there last (I suspect volvo dealer) broke the tube and tried a quick fix with some type of epoxy or sealant. My ports were surprisingly clean which I did not anticipate. I ran a glove test prior to the PCV redo and with a cold engine I was getting a lot of positive CC pressure. With a warm engine at idle, It fluctuated right around 0 and increased when I gave it gas (the glove inflated) I expected to find clogged ports everywhere but that was not the case.
I put everything back together and took it apart around 3 times to ensure there were no kinks in the heater hose. I ending up using a screw type hose clamp right at the critical radius of the bend from the PCV box to prevent the heater hose from kinking (tighten clamp to normal OD of heater hose and when the hose tried to kink, the clamp keeps it rigid). I tested the system by blowing through the PTC end of the heater hose with the oil fill cap on and off (when the oil fill cap is tight, pressure will build, when its loose, you can feel/hear the air entering the crankcase from heater hose) to ensure there were no kinks.
When I buttoned everything up, I got it started pretty fast. took it for a test drive and came back for a clove test (I have a manometer but despite what some may think a glove DOES give you the same result, increasing or decreasing CC pressure). I am pleased to report that I have MAJOR negative CC pressure now!
Im not sure if it was the gunk in the brittle tube (which was over 50% blocked) or the PTC clean which fixed my problem but either way I'm happy! I waited a few hours for a cold engine to redo the glove test as well. This resulted in the crank case almost completely sucking the glove in (DO NOT REV TOO HIGH!!). This is the only reason I would suggest a manometer measurement instead but make sure you have a large enough range so you don't suck the fluid into your engine. As I said, I cleaned my PTC which was pretty dirty! I was extremely surprised at how much crap can get stuck on the walls of that device. It took me nearly an hour to clean with Qtips and carb/intake cleaner. Now I just need to fix the upper radiator hose leak that resulted from a thermostat change and I will be leak free!
Im pretty sure the negative pressure was so high that it sucked my seals back into place (like my RMS). I did have seepage from the RMS, oil filter, and even the oil drain plug (despite tightening and replacing of washer). I cleaned the bottom up and to my surprise, NOT A DROP OF OIL LEAKS NOW. Some people may have a vehicle with oil leaks pre-existing but my car has never leaked oil besides from the fill cap (which was from the positive CC pressure).
A quick summary of what I believe to be the culprit. 1st: over summer oil began to seep from my oil filter. 2nd: My thermostat/ engine temp sensor malfunctioned preventing my engine from properly warming up below 40 F outside (even on the highway my heat wouldn't work because of a cold engine). 3rd: Brittle PCV tube/ PTC nipple clogged around 50%. 4th: Tightened oil drain plug/oil filter to prevent leaks causing more pressure to build.. Finally: My engine would not heat up properly in cold weather. Therefore, when it got cooler here, my piston ring gap was not reducing during engine warm up causing significant blow by with increasing throttle. One night, it was cool outside and the pressure grew too large pushing my RMS and rear cam seal out of position. the rear cam seal was the root of the Frisbee sized oil pools under my car.
So as always, it was a combination of procrastination and neglect of multiple underlying issues. A few things to note: If you get a thermostat/temp sensor code, FIX IT IMMEDIATELY! If you have bought a 130k+ volvo CHECK THE PCV SYSTEM!!!! I remember always being told that a year ago when I was searching for a car and I never did. 6 months ago I was planning on servicing the PCV and never did. I was lucky I did not have significant part replacement costs from oil spraying on various components on the front cam area.
I also cant believe how many S70 T5's I passed up because of abundance of oil leakage. If I would have known this info, maybe I could have gotten a great deal and fixed the PCV myself.
I decided to redo the PCV job as per the suggestion from FLXC90. After I got the car back from the dealer, I was still leaking a fair amount of oil and I could smell it when I got out burning on my exhaust. It turned out that I got to it early because from what I can tell, only one of my rear main seals had been pushed out from the pressure. I also took FLXC90's advice in performing a PCV ultimate fix with heater hose.
When I got down to the PCV, my suspicions had been confirmed. The hard, brittle tube had been broken in several places throughout the sheath. It was clear that who ever was there last (I suspect volvo dealer) broke the tube and tried a quick fix with some type of epoxy or sealant. My ports were surprisingly clean which I did not anticipate. I ran a glove test prior to the PCV redo and with a cold engine I was getting a lot of positive CC pressure. With a warm engine at idle, It fluctuated right around 0 and increased when I gave it gas (the glove inflated) I expected to find clogged ports everywhere but that was not the case.
I put everything back together and took it apart around 3 times to ensure there were no kinks in the heater hose. I ending up using a screw type hose clamp right at the critical radius of the bend from the PCV box to prevent the heater hose from kinking (tighten clamp to normal OD of heater hose and when the hose tried to kink, the clamp keeps it rigid). I tested the system by blowing through the PTC end of the heater hose with the oil fill cap on and off (when the oil fill cap is tight, pressure will build, when its loose, you can feel/hear the air entering the crankcase from heater hose) to ensure there were no kinks.
When I buttoned everything up, I got it started pretty fast. took it for a test drive and came back for a clove test (I have a manometer but despite what some may think a glove DOES give you the same result, increasing or decreasing CC pressure). I am pleased to report that I have MAJOR negative CC pressure now!
Im not sure if it was the gunk in the brittle tube (which was over 50% blocked) or the PTC clean which fixed my problem but either way I'm happy! I waited a few hours for a cold engine to redo the glove test as well. This resulted in the crank case almost completely sucking the glove in (DO NOT REV TOO HIGH!!). This is the only reason I would suggest a manometer measurement instead but make sure you have a large enough range so you don't suck the fluid into your engine. As I said, I cleaned my PTC which was pretty dirty! I was extremely surprised at how much crap can get stuck on the walls of that device. It took me nearly an hour to clean with Qtips and carb/intake cleaner. Now I just need to fix the upper radiator hose leak that resulted from a thermostat change and I will be leak free!
Im pretty sure the negative pressure was so high that it sucked my seals back into place (like my RMS). I did have seepage from the RMS, oil filter, and even the oil drain plug (despite tightening and replacing of washer). I cleaned the bottom up and to my surprise, NOT A DROP OF OIL LEAKS NOW. Some people may have a vehicle with oil leaks pre-existing but my car has never leaked oil besides from the fill cap (which was from the positive CC pressure).
A quick summary of what I believe to be the culprit. 1st: over summer oil began to seep from my oil filter. 2nd: My thermostat/ engine temp sensor malfunctioned preventing my engine from properly warming up below 40 F outside (even on the highway my heat wouldn't work because of a cold engine). 3rd: Brittle PCV tube/ PTC nipple clogged around 50%. 4th: Tightened oil drain plug/oil filter to prevent leaks causing more pressure to build.. Finally: My engine would not heat up properly in cold weather. Therefore, when it got cooler here, my piston ring gap was not reducing during engine warm up causing significant blow by with increasing throttle. One night, it was cool outside and the pressure grew too large pushing my RMS and rear cam seal out of position. the rear cam seal was the root of the Frisbee sized oil pools under my car.
So as always, it was a combination of procrastination and neglect of multiple underlying issues. A few things to note: If you get a thermostat/temp sensor code, FIX IT IMMEDIATELY! If you have bought a 130k+ volvo CHECK THE PCV SYSTEM!!!! I remember always being told that a year ago when I was searching for a car and I never did. 6 months ago I was planning on servicing the PCV and never did. I was lucky I did not have significant part replacement costs from oil spraying on various components on the front cam area.
I also cant believe how many S70 T5's I passed up because of abundance of oil leakage. If I would have known this info, maybe I could have gotten a great deal and fixed the PCV myself.
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FLXC90
- Posts: 1132
- Joined: 18 August 2014
- Year and Model: 98 V70 T5
- Location: Florida Panhandle
- Has thanked: 16 times
- Been thanked: 45 times
Great to hear another success story, now start reviewing Preventive maintenance on your driveshaft and look at Scot 850s post on subframe corrosion to get ahead of any of that!
Current Volvos:
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)
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