96 850 N/A Running rich, white smoke, no codes

[crisnumbertwo]

The engine was still warm when I did the test, but hadn't been driven for a couple of hours.
I pulled ignition connector, and the fuel pump relay, before testing.
Cranked about 7-9 times (Chilton says 5), but will keep it around 6-7 next time (doing it alone, so hard to tell when PSI is at a peak).
Will add some oil to top her off, and do the test while she is hot (tricky, as you point out), other than that, will have to take numbers for what they are, it sounds like.
How much oil for a wet run? 1/2-1 ounce [15-30 ml]?
Honestly, after the first tester was broken (showing 0 psi), I'm not sure I should trust a rented tool.
At this point, could it be worth just getting a new tester (around $30 USD), when the fix could cost an order of magnitude more?

Many, many thanks.

[crisnumbertwo]

Alright.
So here are the second run results:
Dry
1- 180
2-140
3-120
4-115
5- 140

Wet - ~1oz (30ml) oil
1- 120 (weird?)
2- 135
3- 122
4- 150
5- 150

So as I was doing this over the course of about 45 minutes for all of them, and I went from normal operating temperature (after about 15 min driving the temperature gauge was at 90 degrees), down to about 1/5 the way up the temperature gauge. Could this mess with my results very much? If so, I would have to run the dry test, then reassemble, then run wet tests?
Is it normal for oil to spray from cylinders not being tested during the wet test?
Burned off the oil after about 5-10 minutes, still have slight white smoke. Still not sweet smelling.
Also, my coolant level goes up after driving, and back down after cool. Is this indicative of anything?
The coolant expansion tank makes a hissing sound, but I probably just need a green cap.
Oil color is dark, but not milky; there is no oil in the coolant.

[abscate]

You have some low numbers there but if your plugs all look the same I don't think low compression is your problem

That's good!!

Pull the vacuum hose off your FUel pressure regulator and sniff it for fuel. I'm not sure where it is on your vehicle; either behind the engine on right side or under the intake manifold.

Look in the VRD under FPR to get a picture

Other things to check

Did you use a genuine Volvo ECT? Afternarket parts known to fail here

Injectors spray pattern. Unlikely as they don't all fail at once

[crisnumbertwo]

Thanks for the relatively good news! I have been bracing myself for the news that I've got a $1500+ repair bill coming my way (replace head gasket, valve, seals).

I pulled a hose off the vacuum tree as a quick check before taking the fuel rail apart to get to my FPR, and there was the smell of fuel, what seemed to be slight moisture (probably fuel). Note: fuel pressure is at 44psi, which I'm pretty sure is normal.

My (third) ECT is aftermarket, since I was in a hurry to replace it a couple of weeks ago. I will order a genuine Volvo ECT today.
My thermostat is a Wahler from a couple of months ago, and I bought a spare just in case, but it's also aftermarket.

I will check the injector spray today, hopefully (it's pretty windy outside and the test my be futile); I've read it can be tricky, and I will need another person, but it seems fairly straightforward. Any tips on testing the injectors?

Thanks!

[abscate]

Definitely check that FPR before you throw any more parts at it. The classic failure is the diaphragm goes, which sucks fuel into the vacuum line, which then runs rich...

that sounds really familiar...

[misha]

Sas system fault CAN and WILL affect air-fuel ratio but only in case that sas valve fails.It usually fails in opened position and exhaust gases are going back into the engine via air pump line and then through maf sensor which will be damaged if this situation occurs....part with water from condensation which will soak air filter and can find it's way to maf when throttle is opened...part with black sooth from exhaust.

I had that situation long time ago and it's solved with pluging sas valve port on the engine side.

[crisnumbertwo]

Thanks, abscate and misha!

Will be out of town for the weekend, but will get back at it Monday or Tuesday and update with a new FPR.

misha, so just use like a rubber plug or something? I don't trust myself to mod the ECU. I have read that these don't really do anything, and I don't need emissions; I'm thinking I'll just remove it, but not sure how to cover the hole.

[misha]

No,no,no rubber plug.
Metal blug.....regular bolt which fits.

[crisnumbertwo]

So, I put on a new fuel pressure damper, and the car is running much smoother.
I went to change the fouled spark plugs, and they seemed to have been cleaned off on their own, with little or no residue on the tips, but changed them anyway.
Have been trying to find a walk-through for plugging the SAS at the engine, and find what else to take off.
Just popped up with P0133, so have a new O2 sensor on the way.

[abscate]

Definitely check that FPR before you throw any more parts at it. The classic failure is the diaphragm goes, which sucks fuel into the vacuum line, which then runs rich...

So, I put on a new fuel pressure damper, and the car is running much smoother.

MVSCORE!!