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1995 850T Overheating after checked fluids

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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jjohnston1013
Posts: 8
Joined: 19 September 2015
Year and Model: 1995 850T
Location: Eatonville WA

Re: 1995 850T Overheating after checked fluids

Post by jjohnston1013 »

Thanks! I should replace it just to be sure. It's the green one (which I heard is better than grey on this site) but I just am not sure about it. The last time it looked off, it wasn't boiling over or out and I spoke with my Daddo again who said he's pretty sure after hearing of my latest adventures that it might be a fan problem. This was because sitting at idle in driveway it never got over medium on the temp and only started to get hot again when I was driving it once I hit the AC to test that theory. Also, the heat on high is cooling it down.
I've asked a friend to come by and help me tonight but not sure if he can. If not I'll take it into a shop tomorrow and have them see what they can do since I'm out of my depth here and exhausted by the problem already.
So... here's hoping it's the fan! Gotta go out now and check that it's still holding coolant after my test drive and check fuses to the fan.

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misha
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Post by misha »

If cooling fan didn't came on after temperature needle went past middle and when you turned AC on....it could be cooling fan relay.It's on cooling fan carrier.
Could also be bad ECT,but in that case cooling fan should turn on when you hit ac button.
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rspi
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Post by rspi »

These cars have a pressurized cooling system. This means that you should never remove the reservoir cap when the car is warm/hot. If the temp gauge ever reached red, chances are you have a blown head gasket. They are very unforgiving.

What does the oil look like?

You should only check the coolant level with the vehicle cold, if you think you are loosing coolant. Why would someone need to take the cap off when they can see the fluid level through the bottle?

The cooling fan should come on when the engine temp reaches 216 degrees. The needle stays at 3 o'clock until the temp reaches 240 degrees. If you turn the AC on, the fan should come on within 15 seconds. You may want to see if the fan is getting power. You can also put 12 volts to it to see if it is working.

Look at the green cap real close to see if it has any cracks on it. Check the top and sides.

How old is the heater core?





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rspi
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Post by rspi »

Just for anyone reading this thread, if your car is trying to overheat, just shut it off and call a tow truck. A tow is always cheaper than an engine rebuild. A half of a mile drive is to far.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Post by precopster »

rspi wrote:Just for anyone reading this thread, if your car is trying to overheat, just shut it off and call a tow truck. A tow is always cheaper than an engine rebuild. A half of a mile drive is to far.
If no fluid loss you can try turning on heater on full fan and temp setting. This convects a lot of heat from the coolant and causes rapid temp drop (you can view this on OBDII scanner). I used this method when I forgot to connect the earth lead to my radiator cooling fan.

However if that needle doesn't drop down in 30secs just shut it off and holler for a truck.
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jjohnston1013
Posts: 8
Joined: 19 September 2015
Year and Model: 1995 850T
Location: Eatonville WA

Post by jjohnston1013 »

little update: had this into a shop, they did a pressure test. No leaks. They found problems with the fan like I did and found it was the motor to the fan, replaced fan, aux fan, relays. Drove it last night for about 40 minutes total with no apparent loss of coolant or overheating even in under 40 mph, 85 degree weather, and heavy traffic/much stopping.
Then this morning I warmed it up in 40 to 50 degree weather, when it was defrosted drove about 35 minutes at mostly highway speed and nothing happened with the needle at all... As soon as I was pulling into my stop it headed toward red and started steaming.
Found when it was cold it had no coolant apparent in reservoir. Refilled it, bought a new cap despite the expansion tank cap I had not seeming to show any cracks.
Tomorrow I get a new thermo put in just in case, it's already at the shop. They said if it's stuck "open" instead of stuck "closed" it could be this?
I have a wonder about the expansion tank itself. It is old and while the cap seemed fine and seemed like it was making a seal, the tank is old and yellowed and has a bit of a bump on the top and the spout/threaded hole is tilted forward and upward which I didn't see when I looked at videos about the coolant system on these cars... so... am wondering about the expansion tank itself?
I know I may sound like half an idiot here in this whole thread. I promise, I have a genius IQ and some small amount of ability to see logic and sense... I'm just not very experienced with cars and am trying to teach myself things and really figure out what's going on for future knowledge. Thanks so much for all you guys' advice/help.

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Post by abscate »

I'll bet your oil light never came on, and you were mistaking the coolant low light for the oil light. When you braked, the coolant sloshed forward and triggered the light.

Unless you were near stalling when braking, if your oil light comes on in these cars, you've got big engine problems.

You do know EINSTEIN never worked on his own cars for a reason, right?
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1ezliving4ume
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Post by 1ezliving4ume »

jjohnston1013 wrote:Ok...I came back to this after pulling codes and checking fluids and calming myself down so that I'm not just losing it emotionally and unable to really think about or see what's happening.
I'm so glad I'm not the only person to almost completely lose it over these cars. You should definitely get a new coolant bottle also. Buy good volvo parts if you don't you will regret it!

jjohnston1013
Posts: 8
Joined: 19 September 2015
Year and Model: 1995 850T
Location: Eatonville WA

Post by jjohnston1013 »

I'm so glad I'm not the only person to almost completely lose it over these cars. You should definitely get a new coolant bottle also. Buy good volvo parts if you don't you will regret it!
That's why I just took it to the shop! I'm trying to learn about this and since my Dad is two states away but talks me through things on the phone, the hardest part is finding people around me here that I can rely on to not only fix stuff, but talk to me about them in a sensible way that teaches me something for next time!
Right now it's back at my old mech for the thermo to be replaced. I put a new cap on it last night, as I said, and didn't see any cracks (even hairline) in the old one. I'll probably attempt to replace the reservoir tank myself if they don't, just because it's old and hard to read from the outside anyhow.

jjohnston1013
Posts: 8
Joined: 19 September 2015
Year and Model: 1995 850T
Location: Eatonville WA

Post by jjohnston1013 »

No new therm. Second shop confirmed what I was scared of and trying to avoid and test for all along. Blown head gasket. Since I've owned the car 2.5 years and only been able to drive it for 5 months, I'll be selling or scrapping. Ugh.

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