My Wagon pulls to the right upon braking...

[abscate]

It's a bit strange isn't it? You would think a frozen caliper would wear on the piston side but I have seen them freeze in all kind of weird configurations. The tell tale is either gross uneven pad wear or loss of the rotor shiny look.

Preventative care is to flush that brake system every two years of course.

[Seaway]

My car was pulling when braking and it turned out to be bad bushings in the lower control arms. Replaced the control arms and the problem was solved.

[plumsmooth]

How does one replace tie rods and NOT get the car aligned?

Seems my former mechanic has done tie rods several times be it left or right and he is not equipped to give alignments... Nor did he suggest one...

My understanding is that if you get the threading in the right place and the car was aligned fine to begin with then no alignment needed.

At least that is what I read here some where about counting the threads or turns rather to remove.

[plumsmooth]

Preventative care is to flush that brake system every two years of course.

Can someone explain this please.
IS this referring to flushing the actual brake fluid.

I'm guess a frozen caliper needs lubrication like some syl-glide or something maybe some spray silicone?

[cn90]

Frozen caliper's root cause: torn protective boot.
Once the boot is torn, water gets in ---> piston rusted ---> seized caliper (piston can't retract properly).
The solution is new (rebuilt) caliper or rebuild it yourself (you will need new piston).

[RussB]

Preventative care is to flush that brake system every two years of course.

Can someone explain this please.
IS this referring to flushing the actual brake fluid.

I'm guess a frozen caliper needs lubrication like some syl-glide or something maybe some spray silicone?

Yes, flushing/replacing the brake fluid. In my opinion, a frozen caliper gets replaced

[abscate]

How does one replace tie rods and NOT get the car aligned?

Seems my former mechanic has done tie rods several times be it left or right and he is not equipped to give alignments... Nor did he suggest one...

My understanding is that if you get the threading in the right place and the car was aligned fine to begin with then no alignment needed.

At least that is what I read here some where about counting the threads or turns rather to remove.

Ive done this for a town car not being used at highway speed, and deferred the alignment to the next inspection cycle. I watch the tires for abnormal wear during the deferral.

I think there is enough manufacturing tolerances, especially in cheap parts, that I would not trust getting good alignment on a car by matching thread count on the tie rod ends.

[plumsmooth]

Frozen caliper's root cause: torn protective boot.
Once the boot is torn, water gets in ---> piston rusted ---> seized caliper (piston can't retract properly).

Sorry for my Naiveté I wasn't even aware of the protective boot on a caliper.

Guess What: Time for my next Volvo lesson.
When I finally get a decent Jack by next week I'll take a look at my brakes.
Although a previous poster pointed out that you can actually catch the side view of brake pad/caliper just my looking around the wheel.

I'm not quite equipped to work suspension yet but I have a brilliant idea: I should try and look in there.
Actually I remember seeing some fluid/oil emerging from a bootie connecting to the inside of my wheel and some strange noises that went away.

I tend to entertain the unrealistic notion that sometimes problems will just go away on their own...

I'm guessing much easier overall with vehicle on Jack stands or ramps!

[abscate]

From my 1999 Volvo maintenance manual

"2) Brake fluid should be changed at owner request every second year or 30,000 miles (48,000 km). The fluid should be replaced once a year or every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) when driving under extremely hard conditions (mountain driving, etc.)"

This is probably one of the most neglected service items in automotive history. Brake fluid absorbs water, which then rusts metal components, freezing calipers/wheel cylnders ...mayhem...

[RussB]

Plumsmooth, I highly recommend the Haynes manual for your car.